LGV Walter trigger , I thought I finally sorted it !!!

[amx3]

After a lot of head scraching I decided that what the trigger on my walther LGV ultra needs is a new hole ( I was very proud of getting it straight and true ) and 20 mm M3 grub screw nearer the first stage screw on the Rowan enjenering blade . That way I got the blade where I wanted it , shortish 6mm first stage travel , lightened but safe second stage weight , and after a bit of careful filing on the litle block ? Of the side of the blade I could still get the safety lever to slide over said little block on the side of the blade and work fine .
Put the rifle together everything worked perfectly for 20 shots , then the rifle started to Cock but not fire !!!

Took the rifle appart again , opened the trigger cassette again checked all is as it should be , examined very closely all surfaces , readjusted the grub screws a bit put it together again and the same thing happened !!
It works ok with the barrel cocked/ drawn held in my hand , but if I close the barrel to take a shot it will not fire .
I'll take it appart again letter on today , I think the plastic spring guide held by the 2 parts of the cassette while being held ok , was wobbling a bit and don't remember if it was supposed to do that

I've been at it on and off for couple of weeks now , any help will be greatly apriciated , thanks

[Vernal]

Does the trigger move at all when it won't fire? If not, it is a safety catch problem, if it does it is something else.

[amx3]

It does move , I didn't have a chance at the weekend to open it and start again , but thinking about it over the last couple of days I just can't work out why would it fire when cocked and held in my hand , but not when I close the barrel ?! Is it piston / cocking lever related and how ?
The plastic inserts in the stock are still in place and the springs under one of them are there too , is something pushing the piston sideways ?

[mattyw1987]

I had the same issue with a hw95 that I bought secondhand, it turned out the latch rod was a fair bit off centre in the piston and once sorted it never happened again.

[Vernal]

One of life's great mysteries, for me at least, is why does taking up the first stage movement on a Walther trigger take so much effort the first time you do it when the trigger is in the gun? Having done it once, or when the trigger is not in the gun, the blade moves freely, unlike the tight movement when you first take it up. Something inside the trigger generates friction on take up. and that is perhaps what you need to think about to find your solution. I don't think the latch rod could be off centre, the long guide and internal locator keep it pretty true.

[amx3]

yes , it is a Mystery One Its all clear and simple in front of me , without anything obviously wrong. i sorted it now by eliminating all possible causes one by one , checked the cylinder and the rod , that was fine.
At the end just resorted to a different setting of the grub screws with a longish first stage and sweet,crisp and light break for the second. It is longer first stage that i would have liked , more less near the one with the original blade, but lighter second stage , but it would have to do.
All this effort with new hole and longer second stage grub screw , while it worked in the cassette taken out of the gun ( the safety worked too , clearing easily the blob on the side of blade , just would not work with the spring on and something was getting stuck between the second and first sear preventing it to fire .It must be the geometry of the middle sear ?
Thanks for the input guys

[poth]

Try it with the safety sear removed

[amx3]

I think the safety acts as packing too , for the trigger weight spring to slide on and stop it from bending . Of course I can file it a bit near the front ( where it slides under the blob ) if I deside on a lettter date