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Thread: BSA 1926/36 underlever question please.

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  1. #1
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    BSA 1926/36 underlever question please.

    Good morning, I have a feeling that what I am about to ask may be like asking 'how long is a piece of string'. The springs poke out of the cylinders by about 1" no more. I can almost screw on the end plugs by hand but use a compressor not wishing to damage the threads. (a bit wibley woobley by hand.).
    Wrists and shoulder joints are not too good and I am finding it a struggle to cock them. How hard should it be? New leather washers not run in yet and they are producing in between 6 and 7 ft-lbs. Could they be over sprung?
    Your thoughts highly valued.
    Thank you.
    Cheers.
    Geoff.

  2. #2
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    about an inch spring sticking out sounds about right,you would normally not need a spring compressor but a firm downward push against a carpeted floor makes it fairly easy.7flb is probably ok for a new washer as you say it is not run in.one thing i would say is that the newly sealed piston should be easy to push down the tube by hand and not over tight.they are fairly firm to cock and i like to support the joint between stock and action with my hand. ATB

  3. #3
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    Hello isobar, many thanks for your reply, I will chase the seal being too tight as it may well be so. I will also try cocking it like you have suggested, it may be easier.
    Thank you.Cheers.
    Geoff.

  4. #4
    ggggr's Avatar
    ggggr is offline part time super hero and seeker of justice
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff555 View Post
    Hello isobar, many thanks for your reply, I will chase the seal being too tight as it may well be so. I will also try cocking it like you have suggested, it may be easier.
    Thank you.Cheers.
    Geoff.
    How about removing the seal and putting a spacer the same thickness as it in the piston and try cocking it then to see if it is easier (ie no seal friction at all)? If it is hard to cock at that and there is nothing obviously tight or rubbing, then ask on here about a different spring. I find with "plinkers" that soft springs often give a nice lazy cycle and are very easy to cock and shoot. You also have the advantage of less stress on the sear and an easier trigger pull.
    Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"

  5. #5
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    Hello ggggr what a jolly good idea. I have 3. Two are of reasonable condition and 1 is a real bitza, Webley Ospray tap etc. so experimenting with this one is OK.
    I don't want super power and an unstressed, soft plinker is all that is required.
    OK then I will ask chaps, what spring is suggested please?
    I may well start with removing a coil or so.
    Thank you.
    Geoff.

  6. #6
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    My CS settled at a shade over 8ft lb when the seal had bedded in, I could go for more power but it's superbly accurate, nice to cock and little recoil, as already mentioned the seals need sizing when new and should slide down the compression tube with very little resistance, never had to use a compressor on any of my BSA's, At the end of the day no one is likely to hunt with one of these now so accuracy and a nice action are far more important than power. Supporting at the butt/action joint will prevent the wood cracking along the pin location, very common on these rifles.
    Steyr LP10, Steyr LP5,
    Vintage Collection - Walther LP53, HW77k Venom, BSF S20 Match, Original 35, ASI Target plus lots more

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