BSA 1926/36 underlever question please.

[isobar]

about an inch spring sticking out sounds about right,you would normally not need a spring compressor but a firm downward push against a carpeted floor makes it fairly easy.7flb is probably ok for a new washer as you say it is not run in.one thing i would say is that the newly sealed piston should be easy to push down the tube by hand and not over tight.they are fairly firm to cock and i like to support the joint between stock and action with my hand. ATB

[Geoff555]

Hello isobar, many thanks for your reply, I will chase the seal being too tight as it may well be so. I will also try cocking it like you have suggested, it may be easier.
Thank you.Cheers.
Geoff.

[ggggr]

Hello isobar, many thanks for your reply, I will chase the seal being too tight as it may well be so. I will also try cocking it like you have suggested, it may be easier.
Thank you.Cheers.
Geoff.

How about removing the seal and putting a spacer the same thickness as it in the piston and try cocking it then to see if it is easier (ie no seal friction at all)? If it is hard to cock at that and there is nothing obviously tight or rubbing, then ask on here about a different spring. I find with "plinkers" that soft springs often give a nice lazy cycle and are very easy to cock and shoot. You also have the advantage of less stress on the sear and an easier trigger pull.

[Geoff555]

Hello ggggr what a jolly good idea. I have 3. Two are of reasonable condition and 1 is a real bitza, Webley Ospray tap etc. so experimenting with this one is OK.
I don't want super power and an unstressed, soft plinker is all that is required.
OK then I will ask chaps, what spring is suggested please?
I may well start with removing a coil or so.
Thank you.
Geoff.

[nige346]

My CS settled at a shade over 8ft lb when the seal had bedded in, I could go for more power but it's superbly accurate, nice to cock and little recoil, as already mentioned the seals need sizing when new and should slide down the compression tube with very little resistance, never had to use a compressor on any of my BSA's, At the end of the day no one is likely to hunt with one of these now so accuracy and a nice action are far more important than power. Supporting at the butt/action joint will prevent the wood cracking along the pin location, very common on these rifles.

[Geoff555]

Hi, thank you all, I have come to the conclusion that the seal could well be part of the problem. Question please - the skirt of the seal as supplied is much deeper than the old one ( that had turned into a 'ragged' piece of string, well that is what it looked like.) and protrudes foreword by about 3/16" from the face of the piston. It appears that this has led to a seal that has squashed and bulged outwards, or tried to, and has tightened up. Should I trim this back to be just proud of the piston face?
I will size it again.
The 'leather' is a curious, to me, grey colour and very hard. I had a spare one that I soaked in oil for a couple of weeks in an attempt to soften it and it appeared to be impervious and remained hard!!.
Gentlemen your help is much appreciated.
Geoff.

[nige346]

Hi

The seal should sit proud when new but be a sliding fit into the compression tube, Normally I would size to the cylinder in a lathe (this can be done with a drill and some coarse emery paper, don't use sandpaper as it will leave grit in the leather) Sizing is easier before treating the leather with oil, before fitting soak up as much of the remaining neatsfoot and drop the piston and new seal in, it should slide down with no or very little resistance a smear of SM50 always helps, fit the spring and leave for 24hrs with the seal under spring pressure before cocking/firing, this will form the seal to the cylinder. when you start using the front protruding lip will allow the the seal to form, it would normally take anywhere between 100 - a tin of pellets to settle,

The seal still being hard after treating is a concern, the leather would normally soften hence the reason for sizing before treating. are you sure it's leather, this would normally be light-mid brown and darkens upon treating in the neatsfoot.

I'm sure may will have other tried and tested method that work just as well but this is the way I was always taught and have used for many years, never had an issue yet,