A 35 for £35

[landymick]

Have you checked the T.P size ,not all of the old ones are 4mm lots have a 3mm T.P

[I. J.]

So the question is what do I do with it?



Cheers
Rob

Personally. I would shoot it and test it for power. Then I would strip it, check the main spring, de-grease and graphite powder the trigger and set that up before re-building with new grease (and new main spring?).
Over the barrel I would put some of that heat shrink tubing that they put over wiring looms. The action? Plasticoat? Or go the whole hog and have it professionally re-blued. It depends what you want it for.
The scope I would bin. The stock, strip, remove any dents and re-finish. Then I would shoot it and enjoy it.

But thats just me personally.

If you need any s/h parts give me a shout (Ive a couple of bits. ;-) )

ATB
Ian

[RobJ]

Personally. I would shoot it and test it for power. Then I would strip it, check the main spring, de-grease and graphite powder the trigger and set that up before re-building with new grease (and new main spring?).
Over the barrel I would put some of that heat shrink tubing that they put over wiring looms. The action? Plasticoat? Or go the whole hog and have it professionally re-blued. It depends what you want it for.
The scope I would bin. The stock, strip, remove any dents and re-finish. Then I would shoot it and enjoy it.

But thats just me personally.

If you need any s/h parts give me a shout (Ive a couple of bits. ;-) )

ATB
Ian

Thank you Ian. I'm going to leave the stock. I fully stripped and oiled a tx stock years ago and it was never going to look like walnut!
I've just shot it and the trigger is ok but it's going to get a full strip and service.

I think the whole project is going to be like servicing an 80 with a bit of character!

[I. J.]

Normally I find beech stock dont respond well to oil treatments but this '35 stock was tatty when I first got it off here s/h. It came up pretty good waxed after a few hours work.

HTH
Ian

[averageplinker]

Hi I J,
Although it was sometime ago do I remember correctly that you used an oil finishing kit from Welsh Willie on that HW35 stock?
Cheers Rich.

[I. J.]

Hi I J,
Although it was sometime ago do I remember correctly that you used an oil finishing kit from Welsh Willie on that HW35 stock?
Cheers Rich.

No it was a bit of wood dye and wax polish. Sorry for being a bit vague but the stuff I used is in the garage and out of bounds at the moment. (The cars right up against the door.)
Although if there is some commission involved I will say 'yes'.

[averageplinker]

No it was a bit of wood dye and wax polish. Sorry for being a bit vague but the stuff I used is in the garage and out of bounds at the moment. (The cars right up against the door.)
Although if there is some commission involved I will say 'yes'.

It must be my poor memory mixing up old threads, cheers for clarifying

[I. J.]

No it was a bit of wood dye and wax polish. Sorry for being a bit vague but the stuff I used is in the garage and out of bounds at the moment. (The cars right up against the door.)
Although if there is some commission involved I will say 'yes'.

Sorry I was being lazy. Ive moved the car and found my stock stuff. Its the incentive I needed to start another one (l/h Export). Its Rustins Wood Dye, Walnut and Briwax.

HTH
Ian

[TonyL]

And looks lovely, Ian.

[averageplinker]

Sorry I was being lazy. Ive moved the car and found my stock stuff. Its the incentive I needed to start another one (l/h Export). Its Rustins Wood Dye, Walnut and Briwax.

HTH
Ian

Might give that combo a go. I am sure I have some briwax and wood stain knocking around. 😀

[RobJ]

Have you checked the T.P size ,not all of the old ones are 4mm lots have a 3mm T.P

The TP is 3mm and it's currently putting out a whopping 5.7ftlbs.

Just opened it all up and I think I'm the first to do that since it's creation in 1974/5 according to the serial number. The spring is bent and it's got the obligatory factory grease all over the shop.

The rekord is breaking nicely but will get the full treatment.

The gaps in my knowledge relate to if the tp is 3mm and I put a piston seal converter and new piston seal on, will this rod up the power? Ideally I'd be after 10.5-11 ftlbs.

[T 20]

The TP is 3mm and it's currently putting out a whopping 5.7ftlbs.

Just opened it all up and I think I'm the first to do that since it's creation in 1974/5 according to the serial number. The spring is bent and it's got the obligatory factory grease all over the shop.

The rekord is breaking nicely but will get the full treatment.

The gaps in my knowledge relate to if the tp is 3mm and I put a piston seal converter and new piston seal on, will this rod up the power? Ideally I'd be after 10.5-11 ftlbs.

Assuming you have a 65mm stroked leather sealed gun here ?

Forget buying a commercially available seal converter (Knibbs) as they shorten the stroke even more and add weight to the already heavy piston --- by far the best the easiest way to change to a synthetic sealed piston is to buy a complete later synthetic sealed piston.

The later synthetic sealed piston also has a longer stroke at 69mm which should increase your power potential.

The leather sealed piston can be machined and adapted to give a 71mm stroke with a synthetic seal, but if you don't have access to a lathe, the later piston is a good choice.

Whatever you do, leave the transfer port at 3mm if using a synthetic seal.




All the best Mick

Edit :- further info

image.jpg

From here :- http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....88#post7386588

[CapitalBee]

The TP is 3mm and it's currently putting out a whopping 5.7ftlbs.

Just opened it all up and I think I'm the first to do that since it's creation in 1974/5 according to the serial number. The spring is bent and it's got the obligatory factory grease all over the shop.

The rekord is breaking nicely but will get the full treatment.

The gaps in my knowledge relate to if the tp is 3mm and I put a piston seal converter and new piston seal on, will this rod up the power? Ideally I'd be after 10.5-11 ftlbs.

My gut feel with it at 5fpe is that the breech brazing is leaking. I've had it on 40% of the 35's I've owned (including a 1980's synthetic sealed model). You will need to clean out the cylinder and trickle into the joint between the cylinder and breech block some Loctite 270 (IIRC). Allow it to set and clean up the base of the cylinder and you will be pleasantly surprised at the improvement. I actually replaced everything when working on the first '35 with this fault and still couldn't get over 6fpe, until I sealed the dodgy breech brazing.

[TonyL]

Assuming you have a 65mm stroked leather sealed gun here ?

Forget buying a commercially available seal converter (Knibbs) as they shorten the stroke even more and add weight to the already heavy piston --- by far the best the easiest way to change to a synthetic sealed piston is to buy a complete later synthetic sealed piston.

The later synthetic sealed piston also has a longer stroke at 69mm which should increase your power potential.

The leather sealed piston can be machined and adapted to give a 71mm stroke with a synthetic seal, but if you don't have access to a lathe, the later piston is a good choice.

Whatever you do, leave the transfer port at 3mm if using a synthetic seal.




All the best Mick

Edit :- further info

image.jpg

From here :- http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....88#post7386588

As ever, a brilliant post and information from Mick.

And link to that previous, super-helpful thread. That really should be in the Useful Tips section.

[RobJ]

As ever, a brilliant post and information from Mick.

And link to that previous, super-helpful thread. That really should be in the Useful Tips section.

Agreed and thank you Mick. Over the years the help from this forum has been superb and is fully responsible for me getting into amateur refurbing of HWs!

A new piston it is. A breach seal is on order, the original is shot and might be the reason for the low power. If it is the brazing issue it will be highlighted when e everything is back together.

Thanks all again, advice and PMs have been second to none.