Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 46 to 58 of 58

Thread: Weihrauch, Why The Tiles ?

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Wet Cold Downtown Leicester
    Posts
    18,523
    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    Exactly... have you not met Nick ?
    I was resisting that
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sheffield
    Posts
    1,960
    Quote Originally Posted by FPoole View Post
    When did HW buy out BSF? I ask because I'm all but certain the 85, or R10 here, came out in 1985-6.
    The MK1 HW85 was introduced in August 1986 in the UK with the first batch of HC imports landing in September.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Plant City FL, 22 miles east of Tampa
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by landymick View Post
    The MK1 HW85 was introduced in August 1986 in the UK with the first batch of HC imports landing in September.
    Still have the old Doc Beeman catalog with the pictures. I bought my 80 in around 1984 and was just relying on an old memory.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    coventry
    Posts
    1,750
    I don't know what the problem is , put a little pressure on the end block, to relieve the spring tension , and they can be popped out easily using a shortened allen key, as a lever .

  5. #50
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Quigley Hollow, Nuneaton
    Posts
    17,111
    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    I don't know what the problem is , put a little pressure on the end block, to relieve the spring tension , and they can be popped out easily using a shortened allen key, as a lever .
    But as a trained engineer, Nick, given the choice of tiles or a trigger block retained like the TX, which would you chose ?




    All the best Mick

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    coventry
    Posts
    1,750
    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    But as a trained engineer, Nick, given the choice of tiles or a trigger block retained like the TX, which would you chose ?




    All the best Mick
    Fair enough, simple is almost always best, Tx. Though the diameter of the trigger block could be a better fit, I have had them where tightening the bolt pulls the face out of square causing consistency problems , and sometimes broken guides . The lgu is better in this respect as the two pins keep it all square.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Plant City FL, 22 miles east of Tampa
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    Fair enough, simple is almost always best, Tx. Though the diameter of the trigger block could be a better fit, I have had them where tightening the bolt pulls the face out of square causing consistency problems , and sometimes broken guides . The lgu is better in this respect as the two pins keep it all square.
    The Pro Elite approach would work on the TX. Two very precise fitting screws, one in each side of the end plug about half way. That said, I've never seen a TX plug that wasn't a good fit.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Monmouth, Land of Wales.
    Posts
    14,441
    Isn't it because the '95 trigger block is a nasty loose-fitting cast-metal item, secured by a sloppy one sided bayonet fit, firmed up with the stupid tiles, and finished off with the trigger pins then the stock bolt.

    Rather than belt and braces, it's belt, braces, and a jubilee clip.

    Fantastic rifle though... at least the dovetail is in one piece.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    coventry
    Posts
    1,750
    Quote Originally Posted by FPoole View Post
    The Pro Elite approach would work on the TX. Two very precise fitting screws, one in each side of the end plug about half way. That said, I've never seen a TX plug that wasn't a good fit.
    All the TX's i have have a sloppy fit in the trigger block , it came to light for me when i was trying to get a skirtl ess piston design working with a fixed rear guide , when you tighten the screw the guide would cant over causing the piston to bind in the comp tube , I ended up buttoning the trigger block to address the fit.

  10. #55
    harry mac's Avatar
    harry mac is offline You can't say muntjack without saying mmmmm
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    NORWICH
    Posts
    3,218
    The tiles are easy to work with compared to the pain in the ar$e I experienced last night when I had to repeatedly strip and reassemble an HW30 MkII, while I tried in vain to get it to work with a "drop in" TinBum spring guide and top hat.
    Once I'd got used to the tiles on my 99, it virtually flew apart.
    By the time I'd stripped a reassembled the 30 4 or 5 times, trying different combinations of top hat, guide, washers, I'd almost lost the will to live.
    The only thing keeping me sane was the fact that the spring compressor I'd borrowed from Unframed Dave made the process so much simpler, in fact I don't think I'd ever have got the gun back together at all if it wasn't for that.
    Sash clamp now on order from Screw-Fix!
    Last edited by harry mac; 13-08-2018 at 08:26 AM.
    The South of England has 2 good things, the M1 and the A1. Both will take you to Yorkshire.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    A-9063 MARIA SAAL
    Posts
    219
    HW30 - spring compressor needed?
    You're kidding aren't you.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Retford, Notts
    Posts
    34,747
    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    Fair enough, simple is almost always best, Tx. Though the diameter of the trigger block could be a better fit, I have had them where tightening the bolt pulls the face out of square causing consistency problems , and sometimes broken guides . The lgu is better in this respect as the two pins keep it all square.
    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    All the TX's i have have a sloppy fit in the trigger block , it came to light for me when i was trying to get a skirtl ess piston design working with a fixed rear guide , when you tighten the screw the guide would cant over causing the piston to bind in the comp tube , I ended up buttoning the trigger block to address the fit.
    I'm glad you mentioned that, Nick. I don't have the sort of in depth experience with the TX as many others do, having only ever having stripped one - my HC - but I do view it as a potential area for improvement on the TX.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 4/5, 2024.........BOING!!

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Retford, Notts
    Posts
    34,747
    Quote Originally Posted by Rickenbacker View Post
    Isn't it because the '95 trigger block is a nasty loose-fitting cast-metal item, secured by a sloppy one sided bayonet fit, firmed up with the stupid tiles, and finished off with the trigger pins then the stock bolt.

    Rather than belt and braces, it's belt, braces, and a jubilee clip.

    Fantastic rifle though... at least the dovetail is in one piece.
    Very nice way of putting it, Phil.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 4/5, 2024.........BOING!!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •