Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 58

Thread: Weihrauch, Why The Tiles ?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Near Wimbledon, SW London, or Lusaka, Zambia
    Posts
    26,404
    Very annoying - hence I much prefer my old school HW85 with proper screw in block
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Houghton-Le-Spring
    Posts
    406
    I haven't put much thought into this so could be writing bollocks,but if you ground off the tab from the trigger block
    and left out the tabs,so the block is only held in place with the trigger pins,to remove it you would:

    Remove the stock.

    Screw the front trigger bolt back into the cylinder to take the spring pressure.

    Tap out the trigger pins.

    Place the trigger block end on an old seal or some such and press down whilst undoing the trigger bolt.

    Bollocks or genius?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    A-9063 MARIA SAAL
    Posts
    219
    I fettled already quite a number of HW with the tile lock-up and it's always a PITA.


    Sometimes the tiles are not very well cast with a lot of burs on so really hard sitting in place.
    I even found tiles that were secured with some kind of stamps preventing getting them out easily.
    Still wondering if this should be some kind of anti temper.

    https://picload.org/view/dloawldr/hw...2_ver.jpg.html
    https://picload.org/view/dloawlda/hw...3_ver.jpg.html


    If you debure the tiles for easier handling be careful not to loose them as they may fall out of place (BTW - same counts for the M4-nut of the rear trigger guard screw) especially if after reassembly you want to do some testshots while system is still out of stock. In this case I secure them with a stripe of a thin masking tape on each side that I leave on also when putting the sys back into stock.



    Best way for disassembly of the tiles (after taking out the trigger block) is to put the airgun in a spring compressor and put some/little pressure to the end block to relieve the tiles. Much more easier to take them. Best done with an allen key cut a little bit shorter on the short arm so you have a nice lever. The one in the video looks to short to me. Anyway - nice vid.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Eastbourne
    Posts
    2,114
    Quote Originally Posted by Al Bundy View Post
    I haven't put much thought into this so could be writing bollocks,but if you ground off the tab from the trigger block
    and left out the tabs,so the block is only held in place with the trigger pins,to remove it you would:

    Remove the stock.

    Screw the front trigger bolt back into the cylinder to take the spring pressure.

    Tap out the trigger pins.

    Place the trigger block end on an old seal or some such and press down whilst undoing the trigger bolt.

    Bollocks or genius?
    Edit: Slightly misread that. Sorry
    Last edited by MikeHW45; 07-08-2018 at 05:59 AM.

  5. #20
    Barryg's Avatar
    Barryg is offline Registered ̶D̶i̶a̶n̶a̶ User
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nr. YEOVIL
    Posts
    5,051
    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
    One opinion I have come across is that the original screw-in block 85 had a thin-walled comp tube (inherited from BSF in some way?), which proved difficult to drill and tap consistently.
    Interesting,
    Was the thin walled compression tube also one of the reasons that the old 85 had a scope rail? I guess the thin comp tube could be an explanation for discontinuing the screw-in block considering it seemed better.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Quigley Hollow, Nuneaton
    Posts
    17,111
    Quote Originally Posted by Al Bundy View Post
    I haven't put much thought into this so could be writing bollocks,but if you ground off the tab from the trigger block
    and left out the tabs,so the block is only held in place with the trigger pins,to remove it you would:

    Remove the stock.

    Screw the front trigger bolt back into the cylinder to take the spring pressure.

    Tap out the trigger pins.

    Place the trigger block end on an old seal or some such and press down whilst undoing the trigger bolt.

    Bollocks or genius?

    You're nearly there.

    This is how the TX200 back block and trigger unit is made, the threaded lug holds the back block into the cylinder and the rear stock screw threads into the bottom of the lug.

    image.jpeg



    So just the lug holds the back block into the cylinder, there's no reason I can see of why Weihrauch couldn't have used this system instead of the tiles, and I'd have thought that the TX system would have been far cheaper due to less machining and less assembly time ?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Newport, South Wales
    Posts
    848
    I've just finished tearing my hair out with a brand new (two weeks old) HW95. I fitted a Vortek kit in it from new, only to find it shot low every second or third pellet (up to 3" low!)

    Members on BBS helped me out and it turned out to be the breech seal, but on a new gun! During my three days of work on the gun, I found the inside of the tube was so sharp, I'd say it wasn't finished at all. And yes, the tiles are CRAP and primitive !!

    The gun is now fine, but bugger me, what a load of rubbish for such a 'high quality, German made quality air rifle', yea right !!!

    If you want an easy gun to take apart and work on, buy an LGU, now THAT'S an easy gun, way easier than the TX200 and HW's!

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Plant City FL, 22 miles east of Tampa
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by Barryg View Post
    Interesting,
    Was the thin walled compression tube also one of the reasons that the old 85 had a scope rail? I guess the thin comp tube could be an explanation for discontinuing the screw-in block considering it seemed better.
    Yes, it was felt that the scope grooves would weaken the tube to the point of failure, when a mount squeezed on it. The original gun was a poor mans 80 and it was touted as having more power than the 80. The next year saw the power figures revised to give the 80 a slight edge. This was from the old Beeman catalogs. They called the 80 an R1 and the 85 was an R10. This is going back to around 1985 IIRC.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    bideford
    Posts
    2,916
    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post



    So just the lug holds the back block into the cylinder, there's no reason I can see of why Weihrauch couldn't have used this system instead of the tiles, and I'd have thought that the TX system would have been far cheaper due to less machining and less assembly time ?
    The machining and finish of the actual trigger block I reckon is a far more costly item,though I would love to see this on a HW springer.

    Would a TX block fit a 95 with a shim of some sort (and a re drilling of the lug maybe) or even buttonning the block? The rear of the cylinder would obviously have to be shortened to allow the safety in the trigger block to work.

    I'm sure if AA spares were a little more common I'd have actually had a look at this.
    Last edited by robs5230; 07-08-2018 at 06:29 AM.
    B.A.S.C. member

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Bristol
    Posts
    1,116
    Hello, well I must confess to butchering my tiles to get them out Whether they were a bad fit or something I do not know but they were staked in ( new from the factory) so I wound up by drilling a hole in each one so I could lever it out.
    It had a few problems that made it unusable until it was 'tuned' IE: put together properly.
    Cheers.
    Geoff.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Near Wimbledon, SW London, or Lusaka, Zambia
    Posts
    26,404
    Quote Originally Posted by robs5230 View Post
    I'm sure if AA spares were a little more common I'd have actually had a look at this.
    There's a reason AA guns normally stay in one peice, and HWs get broken up for parts
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Quigley Hollow, Nuneaton
    Posts
    17,111
    Quote Originally Posted by Barryg View Post
    Interesting,
    Was the thin walled compression tube also one of the reasons that the old 85 had a scope rail? I guess the thin comp tube could be an explanation for discontinuing the screw-in block considering it seemed better.

    Hi Barry

    The HW35 has a 2.25mm thick cylinder wall, the HW85 has a 1.88mm thick cylinder wall.

    The "Old School" HW85 was a direct descendant of the BSF55 and used the same scope rail but I don't know if the cylinder wall thickness of a HW85 was increased when it morphed into the HW95 ?


    Strangely the stocks from the HW85 and 95 are interchangeable which would tend to indicate that the HW95 also has a 1.88mm cylinder wall thickness ?




    All the best Mick

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Bruton
    Posts
    6,592
    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    Hi Barry

    The HW35 has a 2.25mm thick cylinder wall, the HW85 has a 1.88mm thick cylinder wall.

    The "Old School" HW85 was a direct descendant of the BSF55 and used the same scope rail but I don't know if the cylinder wall thickness of a HW85 was increased when it morphed into the HW95 ?


    Strangely the stocks from the HW85 and 95 are interchangeable which would tend to indicate that the HW95 also has a 1.88mm cylinder wall thickness ?




    All the best Mick
    I believe this to be the case.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Oxfordshire
    Posts
    233
    Does anyone actually refit the tabs?
    Theyre pointless little things. The cylinder, block, trigger are all held in by 2 pins anyway.

  15. #30
    harvey_s's Avatar
    harvey_s is offline Lost love child of David Niven and Victoria Beckham
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    9,325
    I am sooo glad now that I bought a new 98 and not one that has been messed with...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •