Very annoying - hence I much prefer my old school HW85 with proper screw in block
Very annoying - hence I much prefer my old school HW85 with proper screw in block
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
I haven't put much thought into this so could be writing bollocks,but if you ground off the tab from the trigger block
and left out the tabs,so the block is only held in place with the trigger pins,to remove it you would:
Remove the stock.
Screw the front trigger bolt back into the cylinder to take the spring pressure.
Tap out the trigger pins.
Place the trigger block end on an old seal or some such and press down whilst undoing the trigger bolt.
Bollocks or genius?
You're nearly there.
This is how the TX200 back block and trigger unit is made, the threaded lug holds the back block into the cylinder and the rear stock screw threads into the bottom of the lug.
image.jpeg
So just the lug holds the back block into the cylinder, there's no reason I can see of why Weihrauch couldn't have used this system instead of the tiles, and I'd have thought that the TX system would have been far cheaper due to less machining and less assembly time ?
I've just finished tearing my hair out with a brand new (two weeks old) HW95. I fitted a Vortek kit in it from new, only to find it shot low every second or third pellet (up to 3" low!)
Members on BBS helped me out and it turned out to be the breech seal, but on a new gun! During my three days of work on the gun, I found the inside of the tube was so sharp, I'd say it wasn't finished at all. And yes, the tiles are CRAP and primitive !!
The gun is now fine, but bugger me, what a load of rubbish for such a 'high quality, German made quality air rifle', yea right !!!
If you want an easy gun to take apart and work on, buy an LGU, now THAT'S an easy gun, way easier than the TX200 and HW's!
The machining and finish of the actual trigger block I reckon is a far more costly item,though I would love to see this on a HW springer.
Would a TX block fit a 95 with a shim of some sort (and a re drilling of the lug maybe) or even buttonning the block? The rear of the cylinder would obviously have to be shortened to allow the safety in the trigger block to work.
I'm sure if AA spares were a little more common I'd have actually had a look at this.
Last edited by robs5230; 07-08-2018 at 06:29 AM.
B.A.S.C. member
I fettled already quite a number of HW with the tile lock-up and it's always a PITA.
Sometimes the tiles are not very well cast with a lot of burs on so really hard sitting in place.
I even found tiles that were secured with some kind of stamps preventing getting them out easily.
Still wondering if this should be some kind of anti temper.
https://picload.org/view/dloawldr/hw...2_ver.jpg.html
https://picload.org/view/dloawlda/hw...3_ver.jpg.html
If you debure the tiles for easier handling be careful not to loose them as they may fall out of place (BTW - same counts for the M4-nut of the rear trigger guard screw) especially if after reassembly you want to do some testshots while system is still out of stock. In this case I secure them with a stripe of a thin masking tape on each side that I leave on also when putting the sys back into stock.
Best way for disassembly of the tiles (after taking out the trigger block) is to put the airgun in a spring compressor and put some/little pressure to the end block to relieve the tiles. Much more easier to take them. Best done with an allen key cut a little bit shorter on the short arm so you have a nice lever. The one in the video looks to short to me. Anyway - nice vid.
Hello, well I must confess to butchering my tiles to get them out Whether they were a bad fit or something I do not know but they were staked in ( new from the factory) so I wound up by drilling a hole in each one so I could lever it out.
It had a few problems that made it unusable until it was 'tuned' IE: put together properly.
Cheers.
Geoff.