Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Source for Original 75 spares

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
    Posts
    5,036

    Source for Original 75 spares

    Hi bell ringers and 10 ringers, I will be acquiring one of these lovely rifles soon I hope and am looking for a place to buy the two piston seals, breech seal and mainsprings.
    I've had a swatch at the strip down and rebuild videos and am pretty confident. The rifle in question has a lot of pitting and I believe has been in storage for a while, so if there is a way to test the seals without firing the gun, I'd greatly appreciate the enlightenment! 😁 also it looks like I'll need to buy a rear shooter as I think it's missing... what alternatives do I have there or is it diana/Original only?
    Thanks folks
    Donald

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    sunderland "north east"
    Posts
    6,429

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
    Posts
    5,036
    Yep, I see chambers have the two seals, but I was hoping for a kit... maybe from a German site?
    Also looking for info on how to identify which trigger the rifle has
    Donald

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
    Posts
    5,036
    Scratch that... I found one at gotha:
    https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/sh...-75::3584.html
    Donald

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Glenrothes
    Posts
    1,352
    +1 for Chambers. Knibbs usually has parts also.
    75 didn't change much through its life. All the earlier ones I've had / seen had the same trigger units. I'm not too familiar with the later 75 T01 but know the rear sight has a different fitment.
    I'm reasonably certain-via Robin C on here- that any diopter made to fit 11mm Dovetails fit earlier 75s with very slight and easy modification. Robin is the man to ask.
    No way to check if seals are on the road out without firing the gun as far as I know.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
    Posts
    5,036
    Thanks Drew, from what I've seen, all the Diana 75s with t01 triggers, have 'T01' stamped on the cylinder.
    Looking at the pics, there is absolutely no damage to the wee gear covers, so I'm hoping it's never been apart. I don't think I'll fire it. I'll just go straight ahead and treat it to a service kit. It needs a good rub down anyway as it's covered in rust spots.
    I'll keep an eye out for a diopter... the original originals are well expensive for what they are, so I might plump for a better quality aftermarket one.
    I'm saying all this and I haven't even seem the rifle in the flesh yet!! I just know I'm going to have it!
    Donald

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Glenrothes
    Posts
    1,352
    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    Thanks Drew, from what I've seen, all the Diana 75s with t01 triggers, have 'T01' stamped on the cylinder.
    Looking at the pics, there is absolutely no damage to the wee gear covers, so I'm hoping it's never been apart. I don't think I'll fire it. I'll just go straight ahead and treat it to a service kit. It needs a good rub down anyway as it's covered in rust spots.
    I'll keep an eye out for a diopter... the original originals are well expensive for what they are, so I might plump for a better quality aftermarket one.
    I'm saying all this and I haven't even seem the rifle in the flesh yet!! I just know I'm going to have it!
    Zooma (Bob) on here might be worth a try for a Diopter 75. I'm sure he had one for sale a wee while ago in the target section. A decent more modern diopter will be north of 180 quid new. Avoid the cheap ones you see advertised for £30 to 40.
    Good luck with the rebuild.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    malta
    Posts
    646
    The Mod 75 is well worth repairing.Lovely guns and very reliable/accurate if set up correctly.
    The cog wheel covers and the end cap may be very tight if they have never been undone before. Its a good sign that all is original inside but be prepared to resist brute force unless you take precautions to pad the surfaces you are gripping very very well.

    I have found that wrapping stout leather (thicker is better) around the serrated cog-wheel covers and end cap, then gripping them with round jaws locking pliers, does the trick to undo them. The two pin holes in the covers are begging to have a couple of pins inserted and twist the covers free. I do not think it is the best option because the pins easily slip out of the holes. If you have access to a lathe with a three jaw chuck, it can grip the leather-padded parts even better than a locking pliers can and damage avoided.
    One last thing, they dont get more complicated than this so number everything in sequence as you remove it and lay it out consecutively, makes assembly much easier. Photos help a lot too.

    As has been said, WaffenGotha have the necessary and best priced overhaul bits. The mainsprings on the 75 last for ever, its the seals that you want to replace, but its your choice. Check that no crumbly bits of old seal are stuck in the compression chamber or you will have issues with setting the correct clearance of the rear "piston" to the end-cap. Original rear sights come up from time to time on egun for around 50 Euro or so depending on condition. They are not all interchangeable though so be careful and see what rail you have.
    Good luck with the project

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
    Posts
    5,036
    Thanks for the good advice lads. I learned a long time ago that brute force and ignorance are incompatible with delicate engineering! I can see from the drawing how the spring compressor plays it's part with the caps, so I will go easy. My concern is having the correct spacers for the end cap to get the timing set up correctly. I see Gotha sells the spacers, but I'd like to hear what you guys have used to get it set perfectly.

    There's a couple of diopters on druckluftwaffenonline just now for about 80 euro... I'll keep an eye on egun as well.

    Hopefully I'll see the gun this afternoon and get my name on it. I only applied for my air weapon license yesterday, so unfortunately I can't acquire until I get it back. Hopefully, the gun will be in my hands within a couple months at the latest. Good wee winter project.
    Donald

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
    Posts
    5,036
    Well I seen the 75 today and it looks ok. No rear sights, shroud is all scratched, action all pitted, stock gas minor scratches and scores, but it fires ...... I LOVE IT!! My kind of gun. I'm looking forward to getting it all sorted and cleaned up.
    I also put my name against 2 Anschutz 335's! I've never seen one before and they look like cracking little rifles!
    Donald

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Holywell N.Wales
    Posts
    1,514
    It's worth marking the cogs and the toothed rack (if that's what it's called) when stripping it down as it's easy to put them back in out of sync.
    I'm not sure if they're the same as the other model but I think some oils can damage the piston seals ? Hopefully someone will chime in about that one.
    Rust never sleeps !

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
    Posts
    5,036
    I was reading Tom Gaylord's article about refurbing the Diana 6 pistol... in it, he says he has instructions for setting up the timing on a 75. Apparently, we need .3mm of load on the rear piston in order to get the racks and idler gear to line up...
    I'll need to get a copy of these instructions somewhere.
    Donald

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    malta
    Posts
    646
    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    I was reading Tom Gaylord's article about refurbing the Diana 6 pistol... in it, he says he has instructions for setting up the timing on a 75. Apparently, we need .3mm of load on the rear piston in order to get the racks and idler gear to line up...
    I'll need to get a copy of these instructions somewhere.
    Actually the 0.3mm load is to ensure that the two pistons come to a dead stop exactly at the same time cancelling each other's movement out. This is achieved by having no load whatsoever on the racks and pinions when the front piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder. The reason why the marked distance washers come in various dimensions is to make up for tiny dimensional variations during production of various parts including the rear piston's plastic buffer. Try and keep the cog wheels and retaining caps paired together as you found them so that any previous wear is evenly matched to its partner.
    Its a good sign that the gun cocks and fires, you know its all there now all you have to do is strip, service and enjoy.
    I have the manuals in electronic format somewhere, but I am sure that they are available on the excellent VAG (Danny's) site in the Diana resources section.
    Send me an email if you run into problems and I'll try to help as best I can.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland.
    Posts
    5,036
    Thanks buddy...I keep forgetting to go to Danny's site.. I always end up there one way or another... I've not been on since the recent photobucket debacle!.. I'm going for a look now!
    Donald

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •