Crosman 2240 - Co2 capsule getting stuck.

[Jonjon79]

I've recently bought a Crosman 2240 that's been modified with a steel breach, carbine stock, longer barrel etc.

It's a nice little thing to use but, so far, I've only fired 20 shots because the 12g Co2 capsule got stuck.

I'm not very technical but, this thing is so easy to strip that even I managed it.

You'll have to bear with me a bit here .....

The neck of the capsule was stuck in the brass valve thingy - when I freed that up, the spiked bar that pierces the Co2 capsule was well stuck in the capsule. It took a bit of wiggling and pulling to get it off.

It's now all separated and put back together but, I'm wondering if this is a common problem?
I don't fancy stripping it after every 20 shots.

Is there a modification to stop it happening again? - I'm thinking of taking a Dremel to the spike thing to increase the length of the spike so that it's thinner and physically​ can't get wedged in the neck of a Co2 capsule.

Any opinions appreciated.

[paul.w]

I had the same thing happened to me few years back, it was down to two things. 1: the hammer was hitting to hard on to the value. Causing the spike to drive to deep in to the co2 capsule. And then there's not enough pressure in the co2 capsule to push the spike out. 2: if the co2 capsule only give you say 30 good full power shot and you go beyond that, then there not enough pressure in the co2 capsule to push the spike out. I changed mine to a pcp and cut the spike off.

[Jonjon79]

I had the same thing happened to me few years back, it was down to two things. 1: the hammer was hitting to hard on to the value. Causing the spike to drive to deep in to the co2 capsule. And then there's not enough pressure in the co2 capsule to push the spike out. 2: if the co2 capsule only give you say 30 good full power shot and you go beyond that, then there not enough pressure in the co2 capsule to push the spike out. I changed mine to a pcp and cut the spike off.

Cheers Paul, that's interesting - this one also has a power adjuster on the back of the cylinder.
So far I've left it as the previous owner had it - I may put it over a chrono and back it off if needed.

[short-carabine]

Cheers Paul, that's interesting - this one also has a power adjuster on the back of the cylinder.
So far I've left it as the previous owner had it - I may put it over a chrono and back it off if needed.

Ah...was just going to ask if it had one. Bet its wound in to the maximum. Frankly unless you want to wind them out to have lower powered shots, they are a waste of time. Winding them right in might seem a way of getting extra power, but not worth the issues they cause. TBH just replacing it with a standard cap will probably solve your problem

[Jonjon79]

Ah...was just going to ask if it had one. Bet its wound in to the maximum. Frankly unless you want to wind them out to have lower powered shots, they are a waste of time. Winding them right in might seem a way of getting extra power, but not worth the issues they cause. TBH just replacing it with a standard cap will probably solve your problem

When I stripped it down and looked at it, the adjuster is not quite half way in - but I did wonder if this could be part of the problem.

I only really want it for some fun plinking or, maybe some short range shots in the woods so, I may well just wind it right back or replace it.

Thanks for the reply.

[short-carabine]

When I stripped it down and looked at it, the adjuster is not quite half way in - but I did wonder if this could be part of the problem.

I only really want it for some fun plinking or, maybe some short range shots in the woods so, I may well just wind it right back or replace it.

Thanks for the reply.

Might be as well to check the hammer spring as well. People sometimes fit an "upgraded" spring to whack the hammer harder- it may be longer or denser (or both) which could contribute to sticking. You might be able to find the correct dimensions for a standard spring on the net. If it turns out to be some sort of "magnum" spring, you can get a standard one from GMAC: http://www.gmaccustomparts.com/epage...oducts/782-024

[--ped--]

it'll have had a heavy hammer spring fitted return to std as advised by Short Carbine

[short-carabine]

Reckon so, ped, given that the adjuster is only half way in

[TonyL]

And, very often, a slightly weaker than standard hammer spring pays dividends on the 2240.

Even with the standard spring, the pistol wastes a lot of gas - that's one of the reasons they're pretty loud. I believe the valve / spring set up to be the same as the 2250 models which, with their longer barrels, make more power? Going a little weaker on the spring will, most probably, not drop the power and will definitely give more shots per capsule.

[Jonjon79]

Ahh, I knew this was going to end up costing me - some how I have the feeling that this is just the beginning with this one

Again, thanks for the tips 👍

[TonyL]

Could be a very cheap mod if you just shorten the spring and back the adjuster off.

[short-carabine]

Ahh, I knew this was going to end up costing me - some how I have the feeling that this is just the beginning with this one

Again, thanks for the tips 👍

Persevere with it mate. They are fun little guns and an end cap and a spring won't set you back much. I've had a few of these and they are a doddle to work on really, as you have found out. They do like Crosman pellets- I've found that Crosman Hollow Points and Target work well in them.

[Jonjon79]

Thanks for the replies chaps 👍

I'll get a couple of springs and a new end cap on order and, see how it goes.

So far, I've tried it with FAPs - I wasn't really expecting much but, it managed to put 20 of them into a 3/4" group at 27yrds.

[--ped--]

7.5" barrel in.22 take about a coil to coil and a half off then use the adjuster to find the best setting -you can then make a guide to replicate the setting so a std cap can be used
also look at getting a 2300s valve reducer and stem