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Thread: Stripping down and rebuilding a Walther CP88 Competition

  1. #1
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    Stripping down and rebuilding a Walther CP88 Competition

    When I get back from a week's holiday in Dorset I really must stripdown and reinsert the hammer pin in my CP88. Some time back I noticed that the floating pin had somehow dropped out of its alignment between the hammer and the gas valve and instead of fixing it I switched shooting to my CP99 and Sig Sauer P226, that's the trouble, or is it a benefit, of having a number of pistols.
    Anyhow, as the 88 was a dream to shoot with it has to be fixed and I wondered if anyone has done this and whether there are tales of woe or points to be cautious about? Unfortunately the pin seems to be concealed behind a bar and unable to be extracted and realigned without a stripdown.
    Any advice welcome,
    Jim

  2. #2
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    You should have email.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troubledshooter View Post
    You should have email.
    Received ok, many thanks! You live and learn every day, I never realised you can send an email via forum! That does make sending photos etc a lot easier.
    Many thanks Troubledshooter, I will have a read through that and let you, and others, know how I get on.
    All best
    Jim

  4. #4
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    I did same job for a friends cp88. It's very hard to split the case without a lot of parts becoming dislodged and difficult to figure out where they come from, well it was to me!! You will need to fully strip to sort the stupid safety thing. Also be careful of two flying ball bearings!!!I sorted it eventually, but I wish you well, prepare for some swearing!!

  5. #5
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    Mine was always falling out. You don't need to do a complete strip. If you can’t wiggle the firing pin back into position with a paper clip or similar, you can retrieve and reposition it by removing the screw on the right hand side and manipulating the safety barrel or removing it. Be aware there is a sprung detent ball bearing under the left side, and an extra safety spring on the safety barrel if it’s a later model.

    Completely stripping the CP88, removing the machine burrs, polishing up the mating surfaces with 1000 grit, and lubing is well worthwhile in terms of smoother performance though.

    Excellent guide on UBC forum:

    https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/umar...ion-t2309.html

  6. #6
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    Just returned to this thread and all replies much appreciated. I'm delighted to read Wonnly Bob's post that indicates I shouldn't have to do a complete stripdown....yet!
    Back shortly with staus report on how I get on
    Cheers guys
    Dagwood

  7. #7
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    I have repaired at least 3 dozen of these and fortunately they are one of the easiest of this type Umarex pistol to work on next to the 1911. I find a couple of things help, using a tiny dob of silicone glue or sticky grease to hold the trigger lock spring in place, and a piece of dental floss or cotton to hook the cylinder latch spring back in place after the pistol side plate is installed. A common fault on these I fix is straightening the zinc pressure plate after it is bent by over vigorous tightening.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  8. #8
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    So Jim

    It's been a couple of months now. Did you ever get around to it?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly bob View Post
    So Jim

    It's been a couple of months now. Did you ever get around to it?
    Sorry Bob, Just returned to this thread after almost a year and a half and guess what? The answer is no, I haven't done it yet.
    It's because of the search for things to do that I remembered this thread and searched for it.
    It's a must do now and then I can use it again in the UBC competitions.
    Hope you are all ok out there
    Keep safe
    Jim

  10. #10
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    Crikey Jim, that's what I call a thread resurrection

    But good luck, and any problems you know where I am ...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly bob View Post
    Crikey Jim, that's what I call a thread resurrection

    But good luck, and any problems you know where I am ...
    Thanks Bob! The rebuild was quite slow as I fiddled to get hits aligned and double checked for pins in the right holes when it didn't snap together.
    I've had a good couple of sessions with it and now see that there is a design change from the earlier models.
    For one, you cannot take out the safety as suggested as there is a retaining clip which goes around the safet and connects to the trigger mecahnism, it prevents withdrawal without a total strip-down.
    I now realise that thevoid behind the safety mechanism is big enough for the striker pin to drop out when the safety is on, this has. now meant that I have to leave the safety off at all times, not something I'm happy about but having had to strip it down three times this week to replace it I'm not wanting to do it any more!
    I'll be using it more on the UBC competitons Bob so they'll have to up their game on there! I wish!
    All best
    Jim

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagwood View Post
    For one, you cannot take out the safety as suggested as there is a retaining clip which goes around the safet and connects to the trigger mecahnism, it prevents withdrawal without a total strip-down.
    That's not so Jim. You can remove that P-shaped clip through the back without dismantling, and then slide the safety barrel out as I said. I have done it quite a few times

    They call the clip a safety spring, as it stops the gun firing unless you pull the trigger, as it might if you dropped it on the hammer

    Had you followed my link to the strip down guide by jefL on UBC you would have seen my addendum explaining how to remove the safety spring without dismantling

    But you've had some fun, and good luck with the comps

  13. #13
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    This is what happens when you get so many articles and posts regarding a subject that you lose track of which one is which and where you found it.
    I did indeed follow your link Bob and then forgot I'd read it the next time i needed it . The grey cells aren't what they used to be but in fairness they have been working away for the last 75 years and I'm hoping they'll not let me down too badly for the next 25...I can but wish!

    Ok, I've now gone back to the JefL article, very good and I'll definitely have a go at what you suggest re the safety spring. I'm not using my safety at all as it seems to be the basis for the firing pin dropping out ie the void behind it.
    Thanks again Bob and to JefL and the others who contributed to an excellent guide.
    Jim

  14. #14
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    You're most welcome, Jim. I don't use my CP88 safety either. I see little point really. If the gun isn't cocked it's pretty hard to accidentally pull a double action trigger. And if I cock it and change my mind I de-cock

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly bob View Post
    You're most welcome, Jim. I don't use my CP88 safety either. I see little point really. If the gun isn't cocked it's pretty hard to accidentally pull a double action trigger. And if I cock it and change my mind I de-cock
    Absolutely!
    Another stripdown later today. No problem with the pin though, this time it is the trigger needing lubing and a polish, something I should have done last time..doh! Yesterday the trigger started stiffening up and failed to fire a couple of times, I had to decock and recock to carry on.
    I have the JefL post in front of me for this and will take another look at the clip and your advice.
    Jim
    Last edited by Dagwood; 06-05-2020 at 07:15 AM.

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