N160 works well for me, a couple of hundred feet per second than the RS60, better groups and cheap as I buy by the 3.5kg
The speed of RS60 isn't the issue, it's high energy, not quite but basically double based.
N160 works well for me, a couple of hundred feet per second than the RS60, better groups and cheap as I buy by the 3.5kg
The speed of RS60 isn't the issue, it's high energy, not quite but basically double based.
Thanks for looking
Thanks for the feedback guys. I’ve got some RS62 on order along with a set of redding dies that I’ll pick up at the W/end - have to see how I get on
RS62 is a great powder for the 6.5 Creedmoor.
My best load data is: (this gives 10mm groups at 100)
42g RS62
Lapua Brass with Small primer pocket
CCi SR Benchrest primers
140gr Barnes Match Burners
COAL 2.72
2730 fps
My Rifle is a Tikka T3 Tac A1 with Moderator.
BSA Mercury .22, Steyr SSG69, Enfield No4 Mk1*, Schmeisser AR15 Ultramatch, 1938 Mauser KKW K98 Trainer.
Thank you for that data. I picked up the powder, dies etc this w/end. I’m going to try 139g Lapua Scenar bullets. I’ll be loading up this week using .2 increments from 41-43g hopefully to find a node that I can work from. I’ll start with the Hornady brass that I have using large primmers. I have to ask: what is the advantage in using smaller primers for this caliber?
Personally I'd go for .5 gr to start off with, that's what I always do in anything bigger than .223, or you'll be spending forever testing. Once you find the best charge weight you can then try .2 either side to see if it improves things.
Small primer pockets and flash holes make for stronger brass, most reports on the hornady brass have the primer pockets stretching and failing after a few firings. I have .243 fed brass formed into creed with large primer pockets and they are getting loose after 4 firings, this will be the last loading before they're binned.
Have a couple of hundred sako once fired, will be interesting to see how many firings they last.
Thanks for looking