Reply With Quotelf you are lucky it will just be a pellet or 2. good luck with it.
Boingerati
Gents, just acquired this today from my local rfd. Serial No. 46455, so I was after a date if possible? Apparently in a safe for the last 40 years along with three others on the rack (2x light patterns and a standard, I think). Some light surface rust getting the oil and wire wool treatment, but all together with good screw heads and both sights in tact. Now the nasty part! Stripped her down and there is a blockage in the barrel, possibly a big one! It's currently soaking in oil, but I'd welcome any further tips.
The collector formerly known as micky
lf you are lucky it will just be a pellet or 2. good luck with it.
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46455 would be around 1912
Boingerati
ThanksOriginally Posted by Huttles94
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As above, 1912 would be about right. Also the year the first side catch cocking lever was introduced which in my opinion was and still is the most elegant solution ever devised for this function.
Brian
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Just bought another Lincoln Jeffries in .22,serial number T3396 45" long with a push botton cocking lever.
Any idea of the year of manufacture?.
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Just search BSA Resources vintage airgun gallery.
All you need to know.
Thanks to Garvin et al.
Last edited by gingernut; 18-11-2018 at 12:33 PM.
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Improved standard .22 1936-1939 5600 made.
Thank you
Registered User
For barrel blockages I have successfully used bamboo BBQ skewers from the muzzle end and as they shouldn't damage the barrel crown being effectively a bit of grass!
Cut off the pointy end off a couple or three skewers. Get some masking tape to join them together. If you do it right the tape wraps are just a smidge smaller than the bore helping keep it central. Feed it into the barrel then gently tap until the blockage is dislodged.
Oh yeah only join them if you need to, i.e. use a single skewer to move it as far as you can, then join another to it and carry on then add a third if you need it.
Rich.
WANTED: Next weeks winning lottery numbers :-)
Boingerati
Well, whatever was blocking the barrel wasn't a pellet, although there were at least two I removed from the tap and the barrel (someone had obviously tried to shoot the obstruction out). I applied some heat and managed to get the pellet out of the barrel, but the remaining obstruction I had to heat until it carburized and then rod it out with some 4mm dia brass rod. I've now got a clear barrel and am just going through a thorough cleaning regime to get rid of any residue.
The collector formerly known as micky
Glad you have managed to fix it.
Boingerati
I must admit to being a bit disheartened when I realised it wasn't a pellet blocking the barrel, but I can now push on and clean it and get the old girl back together.Glad you have managed to fix it.
Registered User
good stuff! another one coming back to life
Just finished something similar a couple of weeks ago
https://i.imgur.com/TwrV4gC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SGYbemk.jpg
Registered User
A question,probably asked a hundred times before, but here goes nothing.
When renovating one of these underlevers,is it best to retain the two counter wound springs or opt for a single one piece item?.
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If they are the original pair of springs, (flatish section) and velocity is acceptable , leave them in. You always get a better smoother firing cycle with the pair fitted. If you want to go for velocity ( and a more harsh firing cycle usually), then change it for a single piece spring. The modern doubles are made of thicker wire, and are not as pleasant to shoot as the originals. Just my opinion.
Lakey
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