Crosman Town & Country 107

[jirushi]

Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?

Yes, DT Fletcher is right! The pump head is a newer type. Someone did some repairs here... But not to worry, it works fine now!
More re assembling later today hopefully, or tomorrow.





Resealed check valve / exhaust valve assy:

[jirushi]

I woke up early before work and re-assembled the 107.
That was a satisfying thing to do. Everything is gently cleaned and re-lubed.

There's one last problem to solve: the pump cup does not clear the "breathing hole".
As can be seen on the photos: the first one is of the 107, the second one is the 108.
On the 108 photo, you can see the gold colour of the cylinder, so the pump cup is just above it. This is the way it should be.

I hope it's an easy fix: adjusting the screw at the front of the pump rod (3rd photo). Hopefully there's enough space in the steel part that holds the lever, for the screw to be turned inwards. Otherwise I might ask Ped if he has a spare old-style pump rod/head assy for sale

We'll see. Right now the 107 holds air, and feels great, but it doesn't make the "air sucking" noise when pumping and only produces 3 ft/lbs with 8 pumps.
I'll get there!

[--ped--]

all the piston heads I have are the same as yours Louis and as you've seen this type are rebuildable but usually they were rebuilt by the service centres(you can get them from JG on an exchange basis still)
is the rod adjusted correctly and these seals are designed to squeeze a bit on opening and expand when pumped so they sealed to the tube
how much more clearance do you need can you shave a bit off the piston pivot block so the lever opens a touch more
on one of my 140's and a Sheridan I found I had to slot the breeth hole a fraction when fitting upgraded pistons

[jirushi]

all the piston heads I have are the same as yours Louis and as you've seen this type are rebuildable but usually they were rebuilt by the service centres(you can get them from JG on an exchange basis still)
is the rod adjusted correctly and these seals are designed to squeeze a bit on opening and expand when pumped so they sealed to the tube
how much more clearance do you need can you shave a bit off the piston pivot block so the lever opens a touch more
on one of my 140's and a Sheridan I found I had to slot the breeth hole a fraction when fitting upgraded pistons

Good ideas. I will check later re the clearance.
Do you know if the rod can be turned into the piston pivot block?
This would be the logical way to adjust the length of the rod?
Well, the answer lies at home hehe.

[45flint]

I’m mixing threads from the other forum but you said your pump arm was welded to probably put on the new pump cup? If you are now finding that it was not adjusted correctly he may have given up? It may be why your rifle is in such good shape, it wasn’t used after that? I’ve seen that with other vintage rifles, sometimes the ones in excellent shape broke and they were never fixed? Good thing is this is a easy fix, I bought one from Rick for a Crosman 101 that had a leather pump seal. Worked great and was not much money. I like you wanted to keep the original but in the end I used the new one cause I would be the only one that would know anyway.

[jirushi]

I’m mixing threads from the other forum but you said your pump arm was welded to probably put on the new pump cup? If you are now finding that it was not adjusted correctly he may have given up? It may be why your rifle is in such good shape, it wasn’t used after that? I’ve seen that with other vintage rifles, sometimes the ones in excellent shape broke and they were never fixed? Good thing is this is a easy fix, I bought one from Rick for a Crosman 101 that had a leather pump seal. Worked great and was not much money. I like you wanted to keep the original but in the end I used the new one cause I would be the only one that would know anyway.

Yes I asked for Rick Willnecker's advice and he says part of my pump rod comes off a 1400.
I don't really mind tbh, as long as it works (as you point out).
Luckily, this rod is easy to adjust in length. Pfew.
It took a few attempts to get the length just right.
Now the cup clears the "breathing hole".
However, I'm not there yet...
The gun is very low on power (about 3.5 ft/lbs with 8 pumps. I've tried 15 pumps, the pumping is way too easy - 4 ft/lbs).
Hmmm.
It doesn't seem to be leaking. But I can't be sure. I am sure that the new seals are fitted correctly in the compression chamber. I've lubed them with a bit of silicon grease.
I didn't bang the brass nut all the way down onto the pump cup base; I left a bit of space to make it easier to replace the cup next time. I can't see how this would cause low power though.
One thing that struck me, is that the check valve spring in Rick's seal kit is about 1 cm longer than the one that was in the gun.
The gun now contains Rick's spring.
Perhaps the check valve cannot open properly with this stronger spring?
My 108 is perfect though, and Rick resealed that for me a few months ago; I'm sure he used this same spring.
And I don't think that the 108's internals are any different from the 107?
Hmmmmmmm

Any ideas?

[draitzer]

Louis, if you left the brass retainer piece sticking out proud of the pump cup, then you've got excess 'dead space' in front of the piston cup which means the full gulp of air for each pump is not going into the valve chamber. Either pressing it all the way on or cutting it flush with the front of the cup will remedy this (also explains why your cup didn't clear the breathing hole with lever opened all the way: your overall piston head assembly is longer than normal). Obviously you'll need to re-adjust the rod length to compensate, so as to have the piston bottom out against the valve again.

Don R.