Crosman Town & Country 107

[jirushi]

I think this shows a greater issue; your airgun hobby is out of control? Gf or airguns?

Haha that is a hard one 45. In the end I might go for my airguns. No, gf. No, airguns! I have a problem? Maybe.

[--ped--]

it's definitely pressed on as I've removed them in the past to convert the head to an o ring type
I have some on my bench that I've removed from guns when I convert them to blow off pistons
Tim Mac may have a video of how to remove as he does a press on o ring conversion for this type of piston

[jirushi]

it's definitely pressed on as I've removed them in the past to convert the head to an o ring type
I have some on my bench that I've removed from guns when I convert them to blow off pistons
Tim Mac may have a video of how to remove as he does a press on o ring conversion for this type of piston

Yessss!
I did it.
Thanks for all the advice gents.
My mood has ameliorated with 10 points.
Will start cleaning everything, and then during the weekend I'll probably have time to reseal and test.
So the brass part was indeed pressed on. I had this idea whilst driving my bike back home from work through an Amsterdam park, that I could perhaps wedge a screwdriver under the brass part. I removed as much of the seal material in between the metal parts as I could, and then squeezed a small flat screwdriver head in, and started wriggling. It took about 10 minutes of wriggling, all around, and when it started to move, I used a slightly fatter screwdriver head, and then two screwdriver heads above each other.

[45flint]

Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?

[jirushi]

Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?

Yes, DT Fletcher is right! The pump head is a newer type. Someone did some repairs here... But not to worry, it works fine now!
More re assembling later today hopefully, or tomorrow.





Resealed check valve / exhaust valve assy:

[jirushi]

I woke up early before work and re-assembled the 107.
That was a satisfying thing to do. Everything is gently cleaned and re-lubed.

There's one last problem to solve: the pump cup does not clear the "breathing hole".
As can be seen on the photos: the first one is of the 107, the second one is the 108.
On the 108 photo, you can see the gold colour of the cylinder, so the pump cup is just above it. This is the way it should be.

I hope it's an easy fix: adjusting the screw at the front of the pump rod (3rd photo). Hopefully there's enough space in the steel part that holds the lever, for the screw to be turned inwards. Otherwise I might ask Ped if he has a spare old-style pump rod/head assy for sale

We'll see. Right now the 107 holds air, and feels great, but it doesn't make the "air sucking" noise when pumping and only produces 3 ft/lbs with 8 pumps.
I'll get there!

[--ped--]

all the piston heads I have are the same as yours Louis and as you've seen this type are rebuildable but usually they were rebuilt by the service centres(you can get them from JG on an exchange basis still)
is the rod adjusted correctly and these seals are designed to squeeze a bit on opening and expand when pumped so they sealed to the tube
how much more clearance do you need can you shave a bit off the piston pivot block so the lever opens a touch more
on one of my 140's and a Sheridan I found I had to slot the breeth hole a fraction when fitting upgraded pistons

[DT Fletcher]

Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?

Most anything is rebuildable, given enough time, effort, and the right parts. Back in the day, these pump assemblies were never rebuilt for the simple reason that Crosman didn't sell the individual pump cups. That was the basis of my statement. Today, with replacement pump cups, they can. Which, clearly, is (good) news to me. Same with the old 150/160/180 etc model exhaust valves, until Rick started sourcing the proper seals, these valves were considered non-rebuildable, but, today they are. Fortunately, I tended to keep these valves and had a coffee can of 'em which I proceeded to rebuild with parts from Rick.

Like I said on the other forum, I would never rebuild one of these guns with that small check valve seat: it's unreliable and was replaced in production by Crosman with the large version.

Pump adjustment: Per Crosman factory engineering, the pump is properly adjusted when the pump head presses firm against the air chamber and then just enough more so that the pump rod "over-toggles" which forces the pump head against the air chamber and hold the pump arm firmly in place. No other adjustment is (factory) acceptable.

I never worried too much about the air hole. The pump head is not very effective when run in reverse and unless the pump arm is hard to open up, you probably don't have a air supply problem. In other words, don't use the air hole to determine pump arm adjustment.

Didn't see what oil you're using. Most oils and all oils intended for spring guns, are not acceptable. I presume you're using Crosman oil, or MAC-1 Secret Sauce (I know the secret, if you're looking for a local source) or .....?

[--ped--]

the last one of those type valves and inlets I resealed was a 105 which had rock hard seals -not having a replacement set I milled the hard seal out to take a poly 2240 co2 seal on both stem and inlet(I use the same poly seal on the older dan inlets)
instead of the flat exhaust body seal I use an o ring ,did you correctly align the exhaust body with the port
lapping the probe is just like doing a cylinder head valve -bit of paste and twiddle till you see an un broken line of contact on both parts
I have a 140 oring piston head conversion in stock but I only do them on an exchange basis

[jirushi]

Most anything is rebuildable, given enough time, effort, and the right parts. Back in the day, these pump assemblies were never rebuilt for the simple reason that Crosman didn't sell the individual pump cups. That was the basis of my statement. Today, with replacement pump cups, they can. Which, clearly, is (good) news to me. Same with the old 150/160/180 etc model exhaust valves, until Rick started sourcing the proper seals, these valves were considered non-rebuildable, but, today they are. Fortunately, I tended to keep these valves and had a coffee can of 'em which I proceeded to rebuild with parts from Rick.

Like I said on the other forum, I would never rebuild one of these guns with that small check valve seat: it's unreliable and was replaced in production by Crosman with the large version.

Pump adjustment: Per Crosman factory engineering, the pump is properly adjusted when the pump head presses firm against the air chamber and then just enough more so that the pump rod "over-toggles" which forces the pump head against the air chamber and hold the pump arm firmly in place. No other adjustment is (factory) acceptable.

I never worried too much about the air hole. The pump head is not very effective when run in reverse and unless the pump arm is hard to open up, you probably don't have a air supply problem. In other words, don't use the air hole to determine pump arm adjustment.

Didn't see what oil you're using. Most oils and all oils intended for spring guns, are not acceptable. I presume you're using Crosman oil, or MAC-1 Secret Sauce (I know the secret, if you're looking for a local source) or .....?

Hi DT, thank you kindly for all the interesting info and thoughts.
Especially the pump adjustment info is very interesting - I bet the power issue of my 107 is partly due to wrong adjustment. I think I've over adjusted, meaning that the rod is screwed into the piston pivot block too much. This explains why the forearm drops down easily now.

Then the small check valve base. Will have a look on the JG airguns website if they sell the larger version.

The gun has held air overnight.

I used silicone grease on the seals. And a tiny bit of moly grease on the metal parts of the pump rod that make contact with the tube wall.
Do you think that this would cause issues? I have Pellgun oil, no "secret sauce".

@ Ped, I think the exhaust body is aligned properly; the blind hole on the exhaust body (see drawing) is aligned with the hole in the tube.
Good idea to use an o-ring in lieu of the flat exhaust valve body seal.
The seal seems to be working now though.
What kind of paste do you use for lapping?

[--ped--]

valve grinding compound Louis ,use the fine one not the coarse