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Thread: Crosman Town & Country 107

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45flint View Post
    Very cool that everything inside looks so good! Looks like the outside, little used or well cared for gun. I’m no expert having resealed only one gun but it was a 1949 101 with the same pump cup. I remember having the same issue. As I remember I had to cut off the old pump cup so that round nut was totally exposed. Wrapped leather around it and used my long grippers and it finally broke free. I’m pretty sure it was not lock-tighted? I don’t remember heating it but I have a micro torch I use for this and I could have, but doubt it.

    If I were you I would reseal the gun and see if you really need to change it? It looks pretty good? But your there and can examine it better, it may be rock hard? I really think mine is still working with the old seals, but that may not be true? Can’t wait to see the numbers you get when this is resealed. Should really represent what a 107 was capable of.

    Inside you see the advantage of the Crosman design of this era, well built and easy to reseal.
    Thank you for the advice. You're right, I should have left the pump cup and tried it after resealing the rest.
    But yesterday evening I was in this disassembly mode, and that can be a dangerous thing: I then really want to solve each problem asap, and this sometimes leads to hasty decisions.
    I cut off the old pump cup and then tried to unscrew the brass nut, using not leather but thick cloth - no movement, and some minor grip marks. Damn. I used a diamond file to repair the light grip marks, and it's all good now. But still this nut won't move! I will try using a piece of leather tonight. A new pump cup will indeed mean that I can experience the best possible functioning of this 107.

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisvanhovell View Post
    Thank you for the advice. You're right, I should have left the pump cup and tried it after resealing the rest.
    But yesterday evening I was in this disassembly mode, and that can be a dangerous thing: I then really want to solve each problem asap, and this sometimes leads to hasty decisions.
    I cut off the old pump cup and then tried to unscrew the brass nut, using not leather but thick cloth - no movement, and some minor grip marks. Damn. I used a diamond file to repair the light grip marks, and it's all good now. But still this nut won't move! I will try using a piece of leather tonight. A new pump cup will indeed mean that I can experience the best possible functioning of this 107.
    I could have used my micro torch, it’s a fine flame where I could just touch the nut. I’ve done this before and it worked well, just can’t remember it I did it here? Very well could have, cause I remember having the exact same issues. Even wondering if it was a solid piece!
    Last edited by 45flint; 14-12-2018 at 11:14 AM.

  3. #48
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    the retainer is a press fit on the rifle types of this pump cup and is universal to all the 50's onward pumpers
    I replace the entire head with an o ring type and put the original in a box with others so that I can put back to original but tbh most of the seals on the ones I have are shot
    I have in the past made a conversion that screws onto the original but you need to machine the original
    what I would do is once the parachute seal is removed is try drilling the centre to the ally and try punch it off

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by --ped-- View Post
    the retainer is a press fit on the rifle types of this pump cup and is universal to all the 50's onward pumpers
    I replace the entire head with an o ring type and put the original in a box with others so that I can put back to original but tbh most of the seals on the ones I have are shot
    I have in the past made a conversion that screws onto the original but you need to machine the original
    what I would do is once the parachute seal is removed is try drilling the centre to the ally and try punch it off
    Thanks ped. That sounds like I've got myself into some trouble by cutting off the cup. If only I had just followed my gf's advice to come to bed earlier haha. Always listen to the lady...

    Do you mean that I could drill a hole in the side of the brass retaining nut, and then insert a metal rod, in order to have something to punch on, in order to take the nut off?

    I could also try some collets and mole grips, but I would have to make collets. Hmmm, this resealing is going to take a bit more time than anticipated, but I'll get there...

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by --ped-- View Post
    the retainer is a press fit on the rifle types of this pump cup and is universal to all the 50's onward pumpers
    I replace the entire head with an o ring type and put the original in a box with others so that I can put back to original but tbh most of the seals on the ones I have are shot
    I have in the past made a conversion that screws onto the original but you need to machine the original
    what I would do is once the parachute seal is removed is try drilling the centre to the ally and try punch it off
    I have a 1949 101, Kringle paint, Town & Country sight, so no doubt what year and my round nut screwed off, absolutely no question about it? Mine was totally brass, can’t tell if yours is aluminum? If it’s brass apply a little heat to the end of the nut, I know this is what I would have done if I couldn’t move it.
    Last edited by 45flint; 14-12-2018 at 12:17 PM.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45flint View Post
    I have a 1949 101, Kringle paint, Town & Country sight, so no doubt what year and my round nut screwed off, absolutely no question about it? Mine was totally brass, can’t tell if yours is aluminum?
    Aha. The nut is defo brass. Will add a photo tonight and try if it moves with some leather padding. Otherwise it's pressed.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisvanhovell View Post
    Aha. The nut is defo brass. Will add a photo tonight and try if it moves with some leather padding. Otherwise it's pressed.
    Yikes, not just the round nut was brass but the whole assembly on mine I think. I’ll take mine out and check? It might be different?
    Last edited by 45flint; 14-12-2018 at 12:57 PM.

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisvanhovell View Post
    Thanks ped. That sounds like I've got myself into some trouble by cutting off the cup. If only I had just followed my gf's advice to come to bed earlier haha. Always listen to the lady...
    I think this shows a greater issue; your airgun hobby is out of control? Gf or airguns?

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45flint View Post
    I think this shows a greater issue; your airgun hobby is out of control? Gf or airguns?
    Haha that is a hard one 45. In the end I might go for my airguns. No, gf. No, airguns! I have a problem? Maybe.

  10. #55
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    it's definitely pressed on as I've removed them in the past to convert the head to an o ring type
    I have some on my bench that I've removed from guns when I convert them to blow off pistons
    Tim Mac may have a video of how to remove as he does a press on o ring conversion for this type of piston

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by --ped-- View Post
    it's definitely pressed on as I've removed them in the past to convert the head to an o ring type
    I have some on my bench that I've removed from guns when I convert them to blow off pistons
    Tim Mac may have a video of how to remove as he does a press on o ring conversion for this type of piston
    Yessss!
    I did it.
    Thanks for all the advice gents.
    My mood has ameliorated with 10 points.
    Will start cleaning everything, and then during the weekend I'll probably have time to reseal and test.
    So the brass part was indeed pressed on. I had this idea whilst driving my bike back home from work through an Amsterdam park, that I could perhaps wedge a screwdriver under the brass part. I removed as much of the seal material in between the metal parts as I could, and then squeezed a small flat screwdriver head in, and started wriggling. It took about 10 minutes of wriggling, all around, and when it started to move, I used a slightly fatter screwdriver head, and then two screwdriver heads above each other.




  12. #57
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    Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

    Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?
    Last edited by 45flint; 14-12-2018 at 11:09 PM.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45flint View Post
    Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

    Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?
    Yes, DT Fletcher is right! The pump head is a newer type. Someone did some repairs here... But not to worry, it works fine now!
    More re assembling later today hopefully, or tomorrow.





    Resealed check valve / exhaust valve assy:


  14. #59
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    I woke up early before work and re-assembled the 107.
    That was a satisfying thing to do. Everything is gently cleaned and re-lubed.

    There's one last problem to solve: the pump cup does not clear the "breathing hole".
    As can be seen on the photos: the first one is of the 107, the second one is the 108.
    On the 108 photo, you can see the gold colour of the cylinder, so the pump cup is just above it. This is the way it should be.

    I hope it's an easy fix: adjusting the screw at the front of the pump rod (3rd photo). Hopefully there's enough space in the steel part that holds the lever, for the screw to be turned inwards. Otherwise I might ask Ped if he has a spare old-style pump rod/head assy for sale

    We'll see. Right now the 107 holds air, and feels great, but it doesn't make the "air sucking" noise when pumping and only produces 3 ft/lbs with 8 pumps.
    I'll get there!





    Last edited by jirushi; 15-12-2018 at 11:46 AM.

  15. #60
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    all the piston heads I have are the same as yours Louis and as you've seen this type are rebuildable but usually they were rebuilt by the service centres(you can get them from JG on an exchange basis still)
    is the rod adjusted correctly and these seals are designed to squeeze a bit on opening and expand when pumped so they sealed to the tube
    how much more clearance do you need can you shave a bit off the piston pivot block so the lever opens a touch more
    on one of my 140's and a Sheridan I found I had to slot the breeth hole a fraction when fitting upgraded pistons

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