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Thread: Might be a stupid question but forgive me

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Might be a stupid question but forgive me

    I was thinking the other day about how to cold blue some of my air guns, I dont have the money nor space to hot blue unfortunately. I have had mixed opinions about this but still not decided.

    I have seen that heating up the metal before hand can help the process, While I do have a 2000w heat gun, I thought to myself "why not just buy a large cheap deep fat fryer"?

    I mean all they are is basically a kettle (piece of plastic with a metal element at the bottom of the water/oil) And it would be easier to get the metal to a high temperature than a heat gun. Mainly for small parts/pistols.

    Now, call me paranoid but I dont quite like using electrical equipment for other purposes than they were designed for, especially when water is involved. So is this safe to do?

    Again, sorry if its a stupid question.

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    If you must use liquid. A pan on the hob works fine for me when rust bluing.
    If you just want them hot the oven will do.

  3. #3
    look no hands's Avatar
    look no hands is offline Even better looking than a HW35
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    I wouldn't touch cold blue kits if you're doing a whole rifle, I tried oil bluing a rifle once but couldn't get the metal red hot as I was using a blow lamp on the barrel and cylinder, I used a long plastic trough filled with 20/50 motor oil to dunk the hot metal parts in, it did blue it a bit but it looked more like case hardening and came out with the rainbow oil effect, I actually like it and it would probably look good on an old rifle, not sure how smaller parts would look if they where red hot all over and then dipped?

    Pete
    Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    Huttles94,

    IIRC, with cold-bluing, the metal work only has to be reasonably warm to the touch - not scorching, or even boiling water temp.

    On large areas, I have always had trouble getting an even coverage

    Please have a peek here :

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJF6dKOcGP8

    Have fun & a good weekend

    Best regards

    Russ

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
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    nottingham
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    1,018
    Quote Originally Posted by Huttles94 View Post
    I was thinking the other day about how to cold blue some of my air guns, I dont have the money nor space to hot blue unfortunately. I have had mixed opinions about this but still not decided.

    I have seen that heating up the metal before hand can help the process, While I do have a 2000w heat gun, I thought to myself "why not just buy a large cheap deep fat fryer"?

    I mean all they are is basically a kettle (piece of plastic with a metal element at the bottom of the water/oil) And it would be easier to get the metal to a high temperature than a heat gun. Mainly for small parts/pistols.

    Now, call me paranoid but I dont quite like using electrical equipment for other purposes than they were designed for, especially when water is involved. So is this safe to do?

    Again, sorry if its a stupid question.

    Cheers
    Hi mate

    Silchrome plating Ltd do blacking in Leeds.

    Worth a call.

    Dave

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    christchurch
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    7,131
    G96 gun blue creme gives good results on older airguns.

    Its worth getting a pot ,and if you follow the instructions you might surprise yourself with the results.

    Ive used it on a Brittania and BSA Lights and was pleased ,as it is a big improvement without destroying the obvious age of the guns.

    Very useful for small annoying areas that need sorting too.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Another plug for G96, I recently did a webley Vulcan, the hard part is the prep! It took three coats to build up a decent depth, and I found flushing with boiling water gives a better finish. Give it a try, you can always remove it and get it done professionally if you don't like the results. HTH David

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ragle Jnr View Post
    Another plug for G96, I recently did a webley Vulcan, the hard part is the prep! It took three coats to build up a decent depth, and I found flushing with boiling water gives a better finish. Give it a try, you can always remove it and get it done professionally if you don't like the results. HTH David
    Please bear in mind that RichardH posted once that cold blue can be hard to remove completely and can make subsequent attempts at hot salt bluing unsuccessful.
    Rich.
    WANTED: Next weeks winning lottery numbers :-)

  9. #9
    Hsing-ee's Avatar
    Hsing-ee is offline may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
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    Send it to RichardH, it is not THAT expensive and the job he does is several times more marvellous than the factory jobs.

    Remember that cheap is rarely good value. People have dribbled over the blacking on the Feinwerkbau Sport he did for me once, it was that awesome.

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