What is the best means to reinvigorate/polish tired and faded stock?

[andrewM]

The stock/wood on one of my older air rifles has become faded under previous ownership - perhaps because of exposure to sunlight and/or scuffing/handling - over the years.

What is the best way to restore the original deep shine? Currently, it is good in parts but it appears the varnish has faded elsewhere. Is it a case simply of re-varnishing the faded areas and - if so - with what?

All advice gratefully received!

Rgds
A

[junglie]

The stock/wood on one of my older air rifles has become faded under previous ownership - perhaps because of exposure to sunlight and/or scuffing/handling - over the years.

What is the best way to restore the original deep shine? Currently, it is good in parts but it appears the varnish has faded elsewhere. Is it a case simply of re-varnishing the faded areas and - if so - with what?

All advice gratefully received!

Rgds
A

try T-cut?

[RichardH]

Tricky question, is it really varnish?

Lacquer can be rejuvenated, oil finishes also but more simply?

What gun is it and is it the original finish, I might be able to send you a little dropper bottle of magic.

[andrewM]

Many thanks to both respondents.

It is a Webley Mk3. The bluing is just about the best I have seen but the stock is faded in parts. Yes, it might be lacquer but in some areas of the stock this has gone and has left a matt finish in place of the deep polish/sheen previously and still available elsewhere.

It would be pleasing to restore this. These models have the best finish of any, I think it is fair to say.

Rgds
A

[jirushi]

I use Tru oil for rejuvenating stocks.
I've used CCL oil and brush on/spray on lacquer too. CCL oil is nice if the stock is clearly oiled (not the case with my Mk3 stock). I don't like lacquer: I never get a good even finish and I find it tricky to apply.
The nice thing about Tru oil is that you can apply it with a piece of cloth. I find it very user friendly. Do the entire stock to get an even finish.
A few thin layers with 24 hours in between. Then buff the last layer with 0000 grade steel wool.
If the colour of the wood is uneven (paler) in some spots, then you can wipe these with a piece of cloth drenched in some diluted stain. I use Birchwood Casey walnut stain; this was in a 35 pound kit I bought, together with the Tru oil and several items for cold blueing. Good value for money. https://www./itm/Birchwood-Casey-PER...-/232143517379
Again, thin layers, so you can see the effect without going too far.

[45flint]

I use Tru oil for rejuvenating stocks.
I've used CCL oil and brush on/spray on lacquer too. CCL oil is nice if the stock is clearly oiled (not the case with my Mk3 stock). I don't like lacquer: I never get a good even finish and I find it tricky to apply.
The nice thing about Tru oil is that you can apply it with a piece of cloth. I find it very user friendly. Do the entire stock to get an even finish.
A few thin layers with 24 hours in between. Then buff the last layer with 0000 grade steel wool.
If the colour of the wood is uneven (paler) in some spots, then you can wipe these with a piece of cloth drenched in some diluted stain. I use Birchwood Casey walnut stain; this was in a 35 pound kit I bought, together with the Tru oil and several items for cold blueing. Good value for money. https://www./itm/Birchwood-Casey-PER...-/232143517379
Again, thin layers, so you can see the effect without going too far.

I use True Oil as well. Seems to blend with original finish and you can use just enough to bring back a original finish just by applying it over the top of the old. As above 0000 steel wool to finish and blend. I use just enough to bring it back not looking to refinish. I had 1930’s walnut Crosman stock that had been dried out and mildewed white. Did the trick.

Here is stock with most of the mildew wiped off.


After True Oil

[andrewM]

Thanks for that.

Will Truoil produce the deep sheen which is typical of most Mk3s?

Rgds
A

[deejayuu]

Earlier Mk lll would be oil finish. Late ones lacquer but your may be refinished. Can you say Serial No. ?

[andrewM]

Earlier Mk lll would be oil finish. Late ones lacquer but your may be refinished. Can you say Serial No. ?

Yes, it is one of the last produced - an early F registration which is early 1975. It is a rich dark wood - probably mahogany.

Rgds

A

[RichardH]

You need an “oil” that dries glossy to try to blend the faded sections back in, or strip it all and relaquer ?

How bad is it?

[andrewM]

You need an “oil” that dries glossy to try to blend the faded sections back in, or strip it all and relaquer ?

How bad is it?

It looks as if the varnish has come off in parts - not certain how, possibly sun exposure or handling. This has produced a matted finish rather than a gloss finish. Furniture polish works until one handles it and this reduces the shine and produces a matt finish again.

Yes, such an oil that blends sounds ideal. What do you suggest?

Rgds
A

[vbull]

I had one similar to what your describing a while back. I removed old lacquer with CCI Finish & Lacquer Remover, rubbed stock down with 400 grit then 800 and finished with Minwax Wipe on Lacquer. The finish was easier to apply than anything I had tried to date and the end result was perfect. Only problem is the cost of Minwax as it's a US product and there doesn't seem to be a UK stockist so I bought mine on Amazon and paid the price which was about £30+ if I recall. I've since sold the gun or I would have put up a picture but it was just like an original factory finished as new MK3 I have here.

[ccdjg]

I had one similar to what your describing a while back. I removed old lacquer with CCI Finish & Lacquer Remover, rubbed stock down with 400 grit then 800 and finished with Minwax Wipe on Lacquer. The finish was easier to apply than anything I had tried to date and the end result was perfect. Only problem is the cost of Minwax as it's a US product and there doesn't seem to be a UK stockist so I bought mine on Amazon and paid the price which was about £30+ if I recall. I've since sold the gun or I would have put up a picture but it was just like an original factory finished as new MK3 I have here.

You don't have to go to great expense to get a wipe on lacquer, as any varnish can be applied as a wipe-on. The important thng is to thin it down with solvent first, to apply plenty to let it soak in deep and then wipe off to a very thin coat. The process is repeated a few times, witn adequate drying in between, until you get the look you want. The choice is yours, but I have found that a good quality solvent-based clear polyurethane varnish is ideal, and you can choose gloss, satin or matt finish. For a vintage effect that simulates an oil finish I like to use a satin finish, as in the following, but gloss looks great on some modern guns. Much quicker and easier than oil finishing, penetrates deeper, and IMO just as durable if you choose the right quality varnish.

[jirushi]

It looks as if the varnish has come off in parts - not certain how, possibly sun exposure or handling. This has produced a matted finish rather than a gloss finish. Furniture polish works until one handles it and this reduces the shine and produces a matt finish again.

Yes, such an oil that blends sounds ideal. What do you suggest?

Rgds
A

Tru oil ;-) It works a treat.

[andrewM]

Many thanks to all contributors for their advice.

Opinions seem to vary but I shall venture down to Protek to purchase some more pellets and see what they have, to correspond with suggestions here.

Any further thoughts from Deejayuu and RichardH?

You have a most impressive collection, there, ccdjg, with a superlative finish on each.

Rgds
A