What is the best means to reinvigorate/polish tired and faded stock?

[andrewM]

The stock/wood on one of my older air rifles has become faded under previous ownership - perhaps because of exposure to sunlight and/or scuffing/handling - over the years.

What is the best way to restore the original deep shine? Currently, it is good in parts but it appears the varnish has faded elsewhere. Is it a case simply of re-varnishing the faded areas and - if so - with what?

All advice gratefully received!

Rgds
A

[junglie]

The stock/wood on one of my older air rifles has become faded under previous ownership - perhaps because of exposure to sunlight and/or scuffing/handling - over the years.

What is the best way to restore the original deep shine? Currently, it is good in parts but it appears the varnish has faded elsewhere. Is it a case simply of re-varnishing the faded areas and - if so - with what?

All advice gratefully received!

Rgds
A

try T-cut?

[RichardH]

Tricky question, is it really varnish?

Lacquer can be rejuvenated, oil finishes also but more simply?

What gun is it and is it the original finish, I might be able to send you a little dropper bottle of magic.

[andrewM]

Many thanks to both respondents.

It is a Webley Mk3. The bluing is just about the best I have seen but the stock is faded in parts. Yes, it might be lacquer but in some areas of the stock this has gone and has left a matt finish in place of the deep polish/sheen previously and still available elsewhere.

It would be pleasing to restore this. These models have the best finish of any, I think it is fair to say.

Rgds
A

[jirushi]

I use Tru oil for rejuvenating stocks.
I've used CCL oil and brush on/spray on lacquer too. CCL oil is nice if the stock is clearly oiled (not the case with my Mk3 stock). I don't like lacquer: I never get a good even finish and I find it tricky to apply.
The nice thing about Tru oil is that you can apply it with a piece of cloth. I find it very user friendly. Do the entire stock to get an even finish.
A few thin layers with 24 hours in between. Then buff the last layer with 0000 grade steel wool.
If the colour of the wood is uneven (paler) in some spots, then you can wipe these with a piece of cloth drenched in some diluted stain. I use Birchwood Casey walnut stain; this was in a 35 pound kit I bought, together with the Tru oil and several items for cold blueing. Good value for money. https://www./itm/Birchwood-Casey-PER...-/232143517379
Again, thin layers, so you can see the effect without going too far.

[45flint]

I use Tru oil for rejuvenating stocks.
I've used CCL oil and brush on/spray on lacquer too. CCL oil is nice if the stock is clearly oiled (not the case with my Mk3 stock). I don't like lacquer: I never get a good even finish and I find it tricky to apply.
The nice thing about Tru oil is that you can apply it with a piece of cloth. I find it very user friendly. Do the entire stock to get an even finish.
A few thin layers with 24 hours in between. Then buff the last layer with 0000 grade steel wool.
If the colour of the wood is uneven (paler) in some spots, then you can wipe these with a piece of cloth drenched in some diluted stain. I use Birchwood Casey walnut stain; this was in a 35 pound kit I bought, together with the Tru oil and several items for cold blueing. Good value for money. https://www./itm/Birchwood-Casey-PER...-/232143517379
Again, thin layers, so you can see the effect without going too far.

I use True Oil as well. Seems to blend with original finish and you can use just enough to bring back a original finish just by applying it over the top of the old. As above 0000 steel wool to finish and blend. I use just enough to bring it back not looking to refinish. I had 1930’s walnut Crosman stock that had been dried out and mildewed white. Did the trick.

Here is stock with most of the mildew wiped off.


After True Oil