What is the best means to reinvigorate/polish tired and faded stock?

[vbull]

CCDJD, can you let us have the name of the varnish or lacquer you used to get that finish please ?

[45flint]

You don't have to go to great expense to get a wipe on lacquer, as any varnish can be applied as a wipe-on. The important thng is to thin it down with solvent first, to apply plenty to let it soak in deep and then wipe off to a very thin coat. The process is repeated a few times, witn adequate drying in between, until you get the look you want. The choice is yours, but I have found that a good quality solvent-based clear polyurethane varnish is ideal, and you can choose gloss, satin or matt finish. For a vintage effect that simulates an oil finish I like to use a satin finish, as in the following, but gloss looks great on some modern guns. Much quicker and easier than oil finishing, penetrates deeper, and IMO just as durable if you choose the right quality varnish.

Are you removing the old finish first?

[RichardH]

Are you removing the old finish first?

I think they were scratch built so no old finish

[ccdjg]

The first and second examples were scratch built so the varnish was applied to the original wood (walnut). The middle one is a ca. 1800 spring-piston air rifle and was received in pretty poor condition. The old finish was removed by rubbing down with fine steel wool (not too vigorously!) before applying the varnish.

[45flint]

I guess my point and why I favor True Oil is that I never want to take the finish off vintage guns. To me that’s part of the character. True Oil just for me has always blended with the original finish. Below is my most recent example. The rifle on the left came with wonderful original finish just put a little wax on it, so much character here. The rifle on the right came with the original finish but must have laid in a hot barns all it’s life. It was dry and covered with white mold? I just applied True Oil cleaning off the last of the mill dew and leaving thin finish so close to original it’s hard to tell the difference. I agree with poly but not in doing this.

[jirushi]

I guess my point and why I favor True Oil is that I never want to take the finish off vintage guns. To me that’s part of the character. True Oil just for me has always blended with the original finish. Below is my most recent example. The rifle on the left came with wonderful original finish just put a little wax on it, so much character here. The rifle on the right came with the original finish but must have laid in a hot barns all it’s life. It was dry and covered with white mold? I just applied True Oil cleaning off the last of the mill dew and leaving thin finish so close to original it’s hard to tell the difference. I agree with poly but not in doing this.

Beautiful guns!

[deejayuu]

My only other thought is that Webley went for lacquer late on to reduce labour time/cost tho' they stuck to the quality of walnut.
As usual can't say what you should do only what I would do. Decide whether to i) keep as near original as possible ii) replicate original finish iii) refinish to personal taste
That done my action would be i) cut back any flaking finish gently with fine scotch brite. Oil/wax repeatedly over time and monitor progress.
ii) remove all old finish, prepare surface, apply fresh lacquer by spray or as ccdj says ( Thanks ccdj )
iii) remove all old finish, prepare surface, refinish old school oil, raw/boiled linseed, alkanet, walnut, even orange
|Always bearing in mind I just tamper. Dim but willing. Jules

[andrewM]

All most helpful advice - thanks to all for their advice.

I have contacted Protek, who sell small bottles of Tru Oil and I have decided to try this route first, simply because it seems it will blend in with the existing finish, as others have suggested here. In addition, this seems to be the simplest course.

Rgds
A

[RichardH]

All most helpful advice - thanks to all for their advice.

I have contacted Protek, who sell small bottles of Tru Oil and I have decided to try this route first, simply because it seems it will blend in with the existing finish, as others have suggested here. In addition, this seems to be the simplest course.

Rgds
A

Truoil is just varnish in a small expensive bottle.

It can be used to achieve a gloss finish but blending that with the original lacquer might be a challenge,,

Give it a go but consider it may be necessary to properly strip it and relacquer the whole job at a later date,

[andrewM]

Truoil is just varnish in a small expensive bottle.

It can be used to achieve a gloss finish but blending that with the original lacquer might be a challenge,,

Give it a go but consider it may be necessary to properly strip it and relacquer the whole job at a later date,

Thanks Richard - much appreciated. Flint seems to think that it should blend in with the existing finish but I also received an email as follows from another member here:

"I just read a reply to your thread where it says that Tru oil is just varnish in a small expensive bottle.

I have tried several types of varnish and it is very different.

Tru oil might contain some varnish, amongst other things. It has a "pinewood-y" smell and doesn't feel very synthetic at all to me.

As I have demonstrated with the Meteor, but also with a HW35 that I recently restored inside and out, you do not have to strip the stock for Tru oil, and I am sure that you will not need to strip it after Tru oil. But just do it with an open mind, and decide if you like it. Remember to get some 0000 grade steel wool.

And thin layers. A good number of layers will give you a good result (I would suggest about 7). " Unquote.

As you suggest, I will give it a go and see what happens - with the possibility that I might have to strip it all down again later! Still, this seems to be the easiest method which is why it appeals. One hopes it is not a false economy!

Protek sells small bottles for £2.

Rgds
A

[45flint]

All most helpful advice - thanks to all for their advice.

I have contacted Protek, who sell small bottles of Tru Oil and I have decided to try this route first, simply because it seems it will blend in with the existing finish, as others have suggested here. In addition, this seems to be the simplest course.

Rgds
A

Good luck, I may have forgot to say that 0000 steel wood is how I blend and reduce gloss if necessary. Yikes the above post came in as I posted mine. My only difference with the above is I use the minimum thin coats necessary, often just 2 but my goal is just to make the original finish presentable.

[andrewM]

The above all aside, I wonder how Webley did it during their production runs.

[RichardH]

Thanks Richard - much appreciated. Flint seems to think that it should blend in with the existing finish but I also received an email as follows from another member here:

"I just read a reply to your thread where it says that Tru oil is just varnish in a small expensive bottle.

I have tried several types of varnish and it is very different.

Tru oil might contain some varnish, amongst other things. It has a "pinewood-y" smell and doesn't feel very synthetic at all to me.

As I have demonstrated with the Meteor, but also with a HW35 that I recently restored inside and out, you do not have to strip the stock for Tru oil, and I am sure that you will not need to strip it after Tru oil. But just do it with an open mind, and decide if you like it. Remember to get some 0000 grade steel wool.

And thin layers. A good number of layers will give you a good result (I would suggest about 7). " Unquote.

As you suggest, I will give it a go and see what happens - with the possibility that I might have to strip it all down again later! Still, this seems to be the easiest method which is why this course appeal. One hopes it is not a false economy!

Protek sells small bottles for £2.

Rgds
A

As you wish

[ccdjg]

CCDJD, can you let us have the name of the varnish or lacquer you used to get that finish please ?

Sorry I missed your enquiry. I use Ronseal ultra tough" clear polyurethane varnish from the local hardware store, Mattcoat or Satincoat. There is also a gloss version. You can thin it down with any solvent, although not absolutely necessary. You can get a really good streak free, perfectly uniform finish by putting on a pair of those throw-away latex gloves and rubbing it into the stock by hand.

[andrewM]

Sorry I missed your enquiry. I use Ronseal ultra tough" clear polyurethane varnish from the local hardware store, Mattcoat or Satincoat. There is also a gloss version. You can thin it down with any solvent, although not absolutely necessary. You can get a really good streak free, perfectly uniform finish by putting on a pair of those throw-away latex gloves and rubbing it into the stock by hand.

Very helpful - thanks, I have made a note of this. Presumably, it can also be dabbed on with a cloth.

I would think that for the Webley Mk3, the gloss is required.

Presumably, also, it blends in with the existing finish whilst upgrading the areas which are in need of improving due to fading.

Rgds
A