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Thread: Weihrauch HW100 T has become completely inaccurate

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amac View Post
    I also know of several top shooters who have resorted to using the infamous copper brush coated with cleaning paste to achieve the same outcome, although I am personally not brave enough to be so aggressive with an airgun barrel.
    Andy
    have done this a couple of time, with great results, but only on barrels that I was ready to scrap, so had nothing to lose. Not recommended in any other situation really.


    And it helps to have a lathe to machine a new one if needed
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapidnick View Post
    Sorry for my late response to your post replying to mine. I'm not convinced that the barrel clamp isn't responsible so I strongly recommend you remove the barrel clamp entirely and run the gun with a free floating barrel. It is odd to think that a barrel can deteriorate without explanation to the extent you have experienced. Certainly any idea that the power plant is at fault can be confidently discarded.
    Good luck-it must be very frustrating for you.
    Thanks for your response. Will the free floating barrel have a better chance of being accurate? My sense was that the barrel band is just providing an attachment point to ensure that the barrelled action is fixed to the stock at two points. If I leave the band off the barrel, is there no other point that holds the action and barrel into the forestock?

    The barrel deterioration has been relatively sudden, with no warning that the barrel was becoming defective in some way. Why can the power plant be eliminated as a possible culprit? Frustration is a very good word and it describes my lack of understanding... perfectly. Thanks for the good luck wishes.
    Feinwerkbau 700 Evolution Top - Air Arms Alfa Pro J

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by jepho View Post
    Thanks for your response. Will the free floating barrel have a better chance of being accurate? My sense was that the barrel band is just providing an attachment point to ensure that the barrelled action is fixed to the stock at two points. If I leave the band off the barrel, is there no other point that holds the action and barrel into the forestock?
    just try it, to see if it sorts the problem. if it does, we can think about the long terms fix...
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    just try it, to see if it sorts the problem. if it does, we can think about the long terms fix...
    Thank you. I will see what the gunsmith uncovers. If I have no choices left, I will consider removing the band. I am struggling to understand how an 18 month excellent performance (with the band) requires the band to be removed in the hope it may change something that did not need changing previously. /pedant
    Feinwerkbau 700 Evolution Top - Air Arms Alfa Pro J

  5. #95
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    Nothing is going to happen over the weekend so you may as well go to the Useful airgun/shooting tips section on this site and visit the “barrel conditioning” posts started by uk Neil so you can gain an insight into the problems and methods to alleviate them.
    She was only an Admiral's daughter but her naval base was full of discharged seamen.

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by jepho View Post
    Thanks for your response. Will the free floating barrel have a better chance of being accurate? My sense was that the barrel band is just providing an attachment point to ensure that the barrelled action is fixed to the stock at two points. If I leave the band off the barrel, is there no other point that holds the action and barrel into the forestock?

    The barrel deterioration has been relatively sudden, with no warning that the barrel was becoming defective in some way. Why can the power plant be eliminated as a possible culprit? Frustration is a very good word and it describes my lack of understanding... perfectly. Thanks for the good luck wishes.
    I am used to a free floating barrel on my Rapids and I have run a HW100 with the clamp removed and it was fine as the barrel is located pretty firmly in the action.. Will it work? The answer is 'I don't know' but barrel clamps can get disturbed or knocked and as stated by Jon, removing it and testing is a zero-risk strategy so you might just as well do it. A few minutes work and nil financial outlay has to be worth while. In any event if it isn't the clamp is will probably end up being diagnosed as the barrel itself which will cost you a few bob to get fixed. It is certainly also worth checking that the two parts of the action have not become loose. One of the major criticisms of the HW100 is that the block is in two parts bolted together with not particularly heavy duty 4mm hex bolts. They shouldn't be loose but again always worth checking when you have the action out of the stock.
    'It may be that your sole purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others'.

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norfolkngood View Post
    Nothing is going to happen over the weekend so you may as well go to the Useful airgun/shooting tips section on this site and visit the “barrel conditioning” posts started by uk Neil so you can gain an insight into the problems and methods to alleviate them.
    Thank you. I have researched the issue.
    Feinwerkbau 700 Evolution Top - Air Arms Alfa Pro J

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapidnick View Post
    I am used to a free floating barrel on my Rapids and I have run a HW100 with the clamp removed and it was fine as the barrel is located pretty firmly in the action.. Will it work? The answer is 'I don't know' but barrel clamps can get disturbed or knocked and as stated by Jon, removing it and testing is a zero-risk strategy so you might just as well do it.

    A few minutes work and nil financial outlay has to be worth while. In any event if it isn't the clamp is will probably end up being diagnosed as the barrel itself which will cost you a few bob to get fixed. It is certainly also worth checking that the two parts of the action have not become loose. One of the major criticisms of the HW100 is that the block is in two parts bolted together with not particularly heavy duty 4mm hex bolts. They shouldn't be loose but again always worth checking when you have the action out of the stock.
    Thank you for this helpful response and your input.

    There is only one single angled grub screw holding the barrel into the action. One bolt holds the stock against the action and the bolt through the barrel band holds the fore-stock against the cylinder. I can see that the testing of the barrel without the band holds little risk and it would be worth testing the issue while the gun is shooting like a shotgun.

    If my gun were to come back from the gunsmith and fund to be shooting absolutely accurately, then there would be (to my mind) less value in testing the gun in this way. I am working on the assumption that all parts of any design have a specific purpose and removing any of them can presage and unwanted effect. I did check for the integrity and tightness of the bolts holding the two parts of the action together and they seemed to be as tight as required.

    Whatever may lie behind the gun failing to produce the accuracy to which I am used to seeing; I am inclined to agree with you that the issue lies within the barrel in some manner. I am prepared for the costs involved and I will try to look after my gun differently if it can prevent the same thing. For now, I have to wait and see what the gunsmith can achieve.
    Feinwerkbau 700 Evolution Top - Air Arms Alfa Pro J

  9. #99
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    is this issue still going on, if so i will tell you what it is an that is the little washer inside the main valve ,either worn or sticking, making the gun use different amounts of air,Chrony the gun .
    1 Rapid+sentinal n/v, 1 HW100+ Mamba lite

  10. #100
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    I don't know if this has already been said, and I do realise that this isn't a spring rifle, but PCPs can also be susceptible to over/under tightening of stock screws, might be worth a look. Rog

  11. #101
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    Crikey, a lot of different suggestions on here.

    The source of inaccuracy could be down to a number of things but most importantly, if it was at one time very accurate, without having to keep cleaning the barrel it'll be possible to return it to its former self.

    Firstly let me say that a so called fussy barrel as they're described isn't a good barrel. A barrel should be able to shoot a number of pellets accurately but may have a preference that'll give supreme accuracy.

    Let's start with the silencer, the HW version, a market leader, as others have said shouldn't bend, they're robustly built. Any damage would be evident on the 1/2 unf thread end by way of indentations. The silencer can be easily checked to see if pellets are clipping, remove the muzzle end with a 7mm Allen key. Inside are three chambers separated by metal washers, easy to take out and put back. The central hole is designed for 177, 20 and .22 so the former will have the greatest clearance.

    The barrel; HW have recent history of producing poorly finished examples with rough internal finishes and crowns. Things just don't seem to be the same as when the Weihrauch's we use to know we're made in West Germany. The reason this causes inaccuracy is the rough finishes collect lead deposits. A proper barrel tune can often sort this out.

    The internals; inaccuracy as your experiencing could well be caused by power fluctuations a chronograph would show this. The inlet valve could cause this if the ball bearing was sticking in its O ring seat. The piston could also be sticking. Dirt in the regulator washers can also cause power fluctuations. Issues with the dump valve would result in air loss down the barrel, so unless you're experiencing this it can be ruled out. A strip, clean and O ring chance will sort this as long as there's no damage.

    The back block has a couple of possible causes, the first is the hammer sticking due to over zealous factory use of poor quality grease. Another possibility but a bit of a long shot is the cocking arm lever which could be slightly bent preventing a full seal with the breach. Again, a strip clean and check everything is geometrically correct will sort this out.

    If of course there is a couple of these issues they could add up leading to the inaccuracy.

    If you wish your welcome to pm me to discuss.

    BM

  12. #102
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    Now I know nothing about HW100s, but I was talking to a fellow shooter at Kingsley this morning who had encountered a similar problem that was finally identified as being the probe not moving back and forward uniformly but putting the pellet into the breech at a slight angle. If you can put a pellet in using tweezers this can be ruled out.

    Steve C.
    AirArms S400k L/H (.177)BTAS, tuned, AirArms S410k L/H (.177) walnut, BTAS tuned, AA MPR .177 L/H walnut (STOLEN) and...L/H EV2
    BASC

  13. #103
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    Question HW 100 problem.

    Will be interesting to learn what your elected gunsmith has to say on this rifle.

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackmax View Post
    Crikey, a lot of different suggestions on here.

    The source of inaccuracy could be down to a number of things but most importantly, if it was at one time very accurate, without having to keep cleaning the barrel it'll be possible to return it to its former self.

    Firstly let me say that a so called fussy barrel as they're described isn't a good barrel. A barrel should be able to shoot a number of pellets accurately but may have a preference that'll give supreme accuracy.

    Let's start with the silencer, the HW version, a market leader, as others have said shouldn't bend, they're robustly built. Any damage would be evident on the 1/2 unf thread end by way of indentations. The silencer can be easily checked to see if pellets are clipping, remove the muzzle end with a 7mm Allen key. Inside are three chambers separated by metal washers, easy to take out and put back. The central hole is designed for 177, 20 and .22 so the former will have the greatest clearance.

    The barrel; HW have recent history of producing poorly finished examples with rough internal finishes and crowns. Things just don't seem to be the same as when the Weihrauch's we use to know we're made in West Germany. The reason this causes inaccuracy is the rough finishes collect lead deposits. A proper barrel tune can often sort this out.

    The internals; inaccuracy as your experiencing could well be caused by power fluctuations a chronograph would show this. The inlet valve could cause this if the ball bearing was sticking in its O ring seat. The piston could also be sticking. Dirt in the regulator washers can also cause power fluctuations. Issues with the dump valve would result in air loss down the barrel, so unless you're experiencing this it can be ruled out. A strip, clean and O ring chance will sort this as long as there's no damage.

    The back block has a couple of possible causes, the first is the hammer sticking due to over zealous factory use of poor quality grease. Another possibility but a bit of a long shot is the cocking arm lever which could be slightly bent preventing a full seal with the breach. Again, a strip clean and check everything is geometrically correct will sort this out.

    If of course there is a couple of these issues they could add up leading to the inaccuracy.

    If you wish your welcome to pm me to discuss.

    BM
    hi mate you say they are not made in west germany anymore,where did they move to?

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodpigeon View Post
    hi mate you say they are not made in west germany anymore,where did they move to?
    Well, when the Berlin Wall came down in the 90's they became Germany rather than West Germany.

    German engineering has always been top of the pile along with Swedish and post war English but it's just not the same now.

    What you can get assured of is the designs are absolutely top of the tree it's just the QC isn't what it was, but with a little attention to detail it can be put right.

    For me the ultimate hunting gun no matter what cost is an HW100 in .20, nothing to match it.

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