Weihrauch HW100 T has become completely inaccurate

[old goat]

Thanks AngryBear!

[Shedder]

Hope the gunsmith fixes it.
Have you tried individually loading pellets manually without the magazine? If the mags are slightly out of alignment it may result in some damage. The mags may be perfect, but fo they align perfectly?
Worth a try with a pellet like H&N FTTs that usually shoot well with HW100s.

Or you could try shooting into a very deep bucket or barrel of water and retrieving pellets to look for signs of shaving. It does need to be very deep though (probably >24 inches) because otherwise the pellets deform when they hit the bottom.

[jepho]

Hope the gunsmith fixes it.
Have you tried individually loading pellets manually without the magazine? If the mags are slightly out of alignment it may result in some damage. The mags may be perfect, but fo they align perfectly?
Worth a try with a pellet like H&N FTTs that usually shoot well with HW100s.

Or you could try shooting into a very deep bucket or barrel of water and retrieving pellets to look for signs of shaving. It does need to be very deep though (probably >24 inches) because otherwise the pellets deform when they hit the bottom.

Me too. Thanks for your useful input.

I have not tried manually loading pellets... I had not thought about it. Now that I do consider it, I was wondering if it would make the possibility of misalignment of the pellet, at the breech end, much more likely. The magazine presents the pellet to be loaded and after the magazine is indexed, the loading is carried out by a pin which pushes the pellet along the axis of the barrel. If that pellet is misaligned during that push part of the loading cycle, it could possibly exhibit some perturbation as it receives the air that pushes it out of the barrel. That could be one reason why all pellets are not grouping whereas previously; all of the pellets did group well. I can ask the gunsmith to look at that issue; thank you for the thought.

I also like the simple idea of test firing the pellets into a body of water in order to see what potential shaving marks are visible. This is another idea I can usefully adopt when my gun is returned to me. Thank you for your assistance.

[Pman]

I'll be interested to see your results. I am having problems with my newly acquired .22 100T - It seems to be ok out to about 20yards anything beyond that and we are geting 2inch groups

Brought a JSB testing pack to fly through it tomorrow - lets see what happens.

[jcooper]

When your barrel was loose originally and before it was tightened you/ or gunsmith probably rotated it slightly while removing/refitting old/new moderator.

The barrel is probably not in its optimum position. One way to check this is to shoot at a single aim pointon a plain paper target 10 yards away with a slighly loose barrel (so you can just rotate it ). Turn the barrel in small increments and shoot at same point you should produce a curve of some sorts in the card( a full rotation should get some thing like an oval). The barrel will be correct when either at the very top (or very bottom ) of the curve. mark then tighten and recheck.

I had a similar problem to you and this is how I cured it hope this helps. BTW I have also removed the oring on the barrell band ( free floated ) as this can cause similar problems if barrel has been knocked.

good luck

John

[Geezer]

Most guns of good quality shoot a wide variety of good quality ammunition adequately well.

Sometimes, you will find a belter that shoots a significant number of good projectiles very well. You keep those ones.

Sometimes, you find a gun that shoots very well with only one or two types. Those are “pellet fussy”.

It happens. It isn’t always down to the barrel, other factors are involved: bedding, harmonics, start pressures, etc, etc.

But quite often, it does appear to be the barrel. You isolate or modify as many as possible of the other factors, and nothing changes.

Jepho: your points are well taken, but I fear you overrate the consistency of barrel production in airguns. Or most firearms for that matter. The vast majority of civilian guns are built down to a price.

There’s no doubt that (e.g.) LW make good barrels, but most airgun barrels are not at that level, and HW100s have definitely in the recent past had issues with poor quality ones. A near-perfect barrel (e.g. for CF benchrest or military sniping) costs anything from £200-300. No air gun maker will spend that. Well, maybe for really high-end Olympic match stuff, but not for anything less.

Bottom line: sometimes you get a lemon.

[Lavant_Lad]

Most guns of good quality shoot a wide variety of good quality ammunition adequately well.

Sometimes, you will find a belter that shoots a significant number of good projectiles very well. You keep those ones.

Sometimes, you find a gun that shoots very well with only one or two types. Those are “pellet fussy”.

It happens. It isn’t always down to the barrel, other factors are involved: bedding, harmonics, start pressures, etc, etc.

But quite often, it does appear to be the barrel. You isolate or modify as many as possible of the other factors, and nothing changes.

Jepho: your points are well taken, but I fear you overrate the consistency of barrel production in airguns. Or most firearms for that matter. The vast majority of civilian guns are built down to a price.

There’s no doubt that (e.g.) LW make good barrels, but most airgun barrels are not at that level, and HW100s have definitely in the recent past had issues with poor quality ones. A near-perfect barrel (e.g. for CF benchrest or military sniping) costs anything from £200-300. No air gun maker will spend that. Well, maybe for really high-end Olympic match stuff, but not for anything less.

Bottom line: sometimes you get a lemon.

Im with Geezer on this one !!!!!!!!!

[jepho]

Most guns of good quality shoot a wide variety of good quality ammunition adequately well.

Sometimes, you will find a belter that shoots a significant number of good projectiles very well. You keep those ones.

Sometimes, you find a gun that shoots very well with only one or two types. Those are “pellet fussy”.

It happens. It isn’t always down to the barrel, other factors are involved: bedding, harmonics, start pressures, etc, etc.

But quite often, it does appear to be the barrel. You isolate or modify as many as possible of the other factors, and nothing changes.

Jepho: your points are well taken, but I fear you overrate the consistency of barrel production in airguns. Or most firearms for that matter. The vast majority of civilian guns are built down to a price.

There’s no doubt that (e.g.) LW make good barrels, but most airgun barrels are not at that level, and HW100s have definitely in the recent past had issues with poor quality ones. A near-perfect barrel (e.g. for CF benchrest or military sniping) costs anything from £200-300. No air gun maker will spend that. Well, maybe for really high-end Olympic match stuff, but not for anything less.

Bottom line: sometimes you get a lemon.

Thank you for your helpful response. In relation to my own situation; my gun would shoot accurately with many different types of pellets. The recent loss of accuracy is baffling. The rifle is stored in a hard case and it has never been dropped or mistreated. The accuracy loss up to the point where no pellet POI can be predicted and the pellets can end up anywhere on a 6.5 inch target face despite the same point of aim and a rock steady hold, is difficult to explain. The pellet direction on leaving the barrel would be north, south, east or west and all points in between. I had thought that there was some accidental damage to the crown but nothing can be seen on close inspection. I don't see how the concept of the barrel being pellet fussy applies in this particular case. Before the deterioration of accuracy, I could use any pellet and produce reasonable groups.

I take your point about the production of barrels and the likelihood of getting a good one. My intention is not to concern myself with what sounds as if it may be a dark art of tuning for specific manufacturer created barrel faults. I will soon be buying an Anschütz 9015 for ten metre work and then I would like to buy another for longer distance work. I don't want to be bothered with ironing out deliberate faults (compromises) in gun manufacture. Life is too short and I want to be able to shoot without trying to correct bad decisions made at the design stage of a gun. I suspect this the principle rationale behind the often high cost of olympic standard guns.

As for lemons... my gun was not a lemon on purchase 18 months ago and there is no obvious reason for it to have become a lemon now. I would prefer to have it working well and if that cannot be done, then it will be handed on to someone who is prepared to work with it. To me, a gun that cannot place the projectile where it is pointed is useless... it is not a gun in any sense of the word which I can trust and understand.

[jepho]

When your barrel was loose originally and before it was tightened you/ or gunsmith probably rotated it slightly while removing/refitting old/new moderator.

The barrel is probably not in its optimum position. One way to check this is to shoot at a single aim pointon a plain paper target 10 yards away with a slighly loose barrel (so you can just rotate it ). Turn the barrel in small increments and shoot at same point you should produce a curve of some sorts in the card( a full rotation should get some thing like an oval). The barrel will be correct when either at the very top (or very bottom ) of the curve. mark then tighten and recheck.

I had a similar problem to you and this is how I cured it hope this helps. BTW I have also removed the oring on the barrell band ( free floated ) as this can cause similar problems if barrel has been knocked.

good luck

John

Thanks for the points John. I doubt that the barrel was ever loose but your tip for aligning it correctly is well worthwhile. I have no confidence in the gunsmith who told me that the Weihrauch moderator was bent out of true. Hopefully all will be made well again once my formal gunsmith has a look.

[jepho]

I'll be interested to see your results. I am having problems with my newly acquired .22 100T - It seems to be ok out to about 20yards anything beyond that and we are geting 2inch groups

Brought a JSB testing pack to fly through it tomorrow - lets see what happens.

Thank you for your response: I will feed back my results as soon as I have something to report.

I am not as knowledgeable as I would wish to be. Is your 100T a new gun or just new to you? The distance of 20 yards requires some ballistic knowledge to analyse correctly. My intuition is that if 20 yards is accurate, there is no reason why 40 yards could not be accurate. I am sure someone will be along soon to tell me why that is foolish assumption but it may open a helpful debate on what is not working for your gun.

[Pman]

Thank you for your response: I will feed back my results as soon as I have something to report.

I am not as knowledgeable as I would wish to be. Is your 100T a new gun or just new to you? The distance of 20 yards requires some ballistic knowledge to analyse correctly. My intuition is that if 20 yards is accurate, there is no reason why 40 yards could not be accurate. I am sure someone will be along soon to tell me why that is foolish assumption but it may open a helpful debate on what is not working for your gun.

Its new to me, the previous owner used it for ratting I believe and seldom used it at range. I am however a paper puncher and regularly user mine at 20-50 yards for either tins or targets.

I'm not the best shot in the world but in favourable wind conditions I can regularly group my .177 rifles under a 5p at 50 yards day in day out. At the moment the closest I have managed to get with the hw100 is about 1.5inches centre to centre. A little more than I am comfortable with.

Going to work my way through some jsb testers to see if there is a specific pellet it really likes, but 1.5inches centre to centre can't, or rather shouldnt be, as good as this rifle gets