Torque wrench to tighten scope mounts?

[mrben2475]

Does anyone use a torque wrench to tighten scope mount bolts? If so which one? and is there an ideal torque setting? I've checked my manual but can't see any reference to one.

I've fitted the scopes and only tightened (within reason) holding the short end of hex/allen key (less force). Seems to be OK so far but a little concerned the scope might move fractionally when the rifle is in its case etc.

[mjoseph]

Hi,

I do have a torque screw driver, a Wheeler Fat Wrench, but I don't bother to use it for scope mounts. I do the same as you and only hold the short part of the allen key.


Cheers,


Mark.

[angrybear]

One finger pressure on the long end of the (standard length) hex key.
Thumb against the side of the angle, finger next to little finger on the long end of the key, & use the finger not the wrist

[mrben2475]

Hi,

I do have a torque screw driver, a Wheeler Fat Wrench, but I don't bother to use it for scope mounts. I do the same as you and only hold the short part of the allen key.


Cheers,


Mark.

That's good to know, thanks mjoseph

[mrben2475]

One finger pressure on the long end of the (standard length) hex key.
Thumb against the side of the angle, finger next to little finger on the long end of the key, & use the finger not the wrist

I shall test that method out and see if there's any movement from the current tightness. Cheers angrybear

[Portzy]

I have one of these;

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-vde-...1-pieces/2581k

Although you can get just the wrench and setting tool as a single item if you want to and it is much cheaper that way, I do have uses for the other bits.

From the same place I got the 4mm and 5mm hex bits for Sportsmatch mounts.

1.0 Nm for the scope ring caps
1.5 Nm for mount to dovetail with arrestor pin
2.0 Nm for mount to dovetail without arrestor pin

No damaged dovetails or crimped scopes

The tool is accurate and I would say that it is closer to true than say the Vortex, I do have one of those too that takes standard 1/4" bits for when working on stock screws etc.

[RobF]

Yep you won’t find many torque drivers go to the torques low enough for scope mounts without spending a fair penny.

[angrybear]

If you do get/have a torque driver are you getting it tested every year on a calibrated test gauge ?
If not you're relying on random luck that it's still accurate.
You're better off learning & getting a feel for how much "finger effort" it takes you with your tools.

[mrben2475]

I have one of these;

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-vde-...1-pieces/2581k

Although you can get just the wrench and setting tool as a single item if you want to and it is much cheaper that way, I do have uses for the other bits.

From the same place I got the 4mm and 5mm hex bits for Sportsmatch mounts.

1.0 Nm for the scope ring caps
1.5 Nm for mount to dovetail with arrestor pin
2.0 Nm for mount to dovetail without arrestor pin

No damaged dovetails or crimped scopes

The tool is accurate and I would say that it is closer to true than say the Vortex, I do have one of those too that takes standard 1/4" bits for when working on stock screws etc.

Great bit of info there, cheers Portzy. Nice bit of kit the Wiha set, not sure I'd need it for anything else though so hard to justify £120. I did have a look at the Vortex online, looks like a nice well made tool as well. I found a nice Wera one at a good price but it starts at 1.2nm

[BigDuncs]

I've often thought the same thing. However, there have been a few threads over the last few years about this and the takehome for me is that without knowing the torque that should be used, there's not much point, although Portzy's useful post above is helpful.

In many years of using scopes and fitting/refitting/adjusting many each year, I've yet to damage one and have yet to have one move. I put this down to now using good quality scope mounts and doing what has been suggested above, mainly using the short part of the hex key.

I can't imagine just how much force would be required to crimp a decent quality scope...

[mrben2475]

If you do get/have a torque driver are you getting it tested every year on a calibrated test gauge ?
If not you're relying on random luck that it's still accurate.
You're better off learning & getting a feel for how much "finger effort" it takes you with your tools.

fair point

[mrben2475]

I've often thought the same thing. However, there have been a few threads over the last few years about this and the takehome for me is that without knowing the torque that should be used, there's not much point, although Portzy's useful post above is helpful.

In many years of using scopes and fitting/refitting/adjusting many each year, I've yet to damage one and have yet to have one move. I put this down to now using good quality scope mounts and doing what has been suggested above, mainly using the short part of the hex key.

I can't imagine just how much force would be required to crimp a decent quality scope...

Angrybear made a good point about the torque being tested. It's nice to have a new tool/toy but for me I'm not sure It's worth investing this sort of money in a tool I'd rarely use that should be tested annually.

I probably wouldn't have asked the question had I known about the testing and cost of the testing. I'd end up with a glorified allen key and I'd still be touch tightening....... obviously if I were to use it on a regular basis it would justify the expense.

[rancidtom]

Don't get hung up about calibration of torque wrenches/screwdrivers. The manufacturer may state a re-cal every 12 months but this is for a tool that will be used in a production environment maybe hundreds of times a day or in somewhere that torque specifications are critical such as aerospace/automotive applications. For home use (with no abuse) tools should not wear appreciably for many years so unless you are working with them daily and in situations where safety requirements need to be met it's not worth getting a torque wrench calibrated yearly.
Things to remember about torque wrenches/screwdrivers are don't push them past their limits, don't use them for "breaking" a fastener loose, always set the torque value from a lower value (wind it back below the next setting then wind it up to the required number) and most manufacturers recommend that they are wound back to minimum after use.
Generally torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle area of their range, choose the right one for the job rather than running close to max or min settings.
Make sure you don't allow them to rust! Don't fill them with grease or oil, check what the manufacturer states about maintenance, blasting them with cleaning solutions may not be the right thing to do.

[Solvo]

I use the wheeler FAT wrench too.
Never concerned about calibration, it's not used excessively and certainly not on anything where precise torquing is essential.
A slightly inaccurate torque wrench will still give a more consistent torque than an amateur guess.

This is helped the the wheeler being in a screwdriver format rather than a socket handle style seen on most designed for automotive & aerospace type work.

[Bellycrawler]

Fingers are my pressure gauge with the initial screwing down then onto the short bit of the allen key. Simple enough to learn.