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    ggggr's Avatar
    ggggr is offline part time super hero and seeker of justice
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    Haenel 26 questions

    I bought one today that does not always want to cock. Piston and sear seem ok and manspring must be ok as it cocks sometimes. I think cocking arm catch spring is a cock up (more in a minute). Also I assume the gun should have a mainspring guide (there is one in the gun).
    Right--the cocking arm spring looks home made and has a couple of extra loopy bits on the side that touches the arm. The other end of it rests against what seems to be a black rubber ball. I cannot see this being correct and I think it was added later to tension the spring. I think the 2 sides of the spring are touching sometimes on cocking and the rubber ball needs to be compressed before the gun will cock. I dont want to rip out a factory fitted rubber ball so will wait until someone on me tells me the correct set up , which I assume is the same as the 28, before I destroy a rare factory special edition.
    Thanks
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    Haenel 26 question - serial numbers

    The highest recorded serial I have seen is in my collection, serial #10708, for the first version with the wood grips. The second version with the bakelite grips is #12869 as noted in John Griffiths book, The Encyclopedia of Spring Air Pistols.

  3. #3
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Hi Guy, here is a picture of the spring with a scale. I will be sending you some piano wire of the correct gauge so you can have a go at making one. The rubber ball you mention is definitely someone's Heath Robinson idea.




    Cheers
    John

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    ggggr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccdjg View Post
    Hi Guy, here is a picture of the spring with a scale. I will be sending you some piano wire of the correct gauge so you can have a go at making one. The rubber ball you mention is definitely someone's Heath Robinson idea.




    Cheers
    John
    Thanks John. The thing is the ball idea works-----------up until the point the arm touches it and has to start compressing it. The spring out of my 28 is now back in the 28, but the leg that goes onto the arm could do with being longer to sort it.
    I've often thought the 28 is a stupid idea for a gun! Press a catch on the side to release the grip, turn the gun upside down then try to cock it, turn it the right way up and then you have to break the barrel to load it!
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    Yup. The rubber ball isn't right. I have made quite a few of these cocking lever return springs. If you like I can knock one up as I think I still have the jig.

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    ggggr's Avatar
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    Thanks to John and Jimmie for their help here.
    I have a feeling that the cocking arm might come too far and touch the coils. It may be a case of getting a few thou taken of the face of the piston that the sear engages on, so the sear will engage a fraction earlier and the cocking arm will not have to pivot quite as far.
    Any thoughts to this John and how close the arm comes to the coils of the spring?
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  7. #7
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    I had a look at a couple of 26's and in both cases the cocking arm is almost touching the spring coils at the point that the sear engages. As your spring may not be original, it is more likely that the coils are too big rather than there is a problem with the sear engagement. So if it were me, I would prefer to try making a new spring with as small a diameter coil as possible, rather than machining the piston. You could also file a bit off the inner surface of the cocking arm rather than off the piston to reduce contact with the coils.

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