Reply With QuotePretty sure you need to drill it out - also note the grip frame has to be removed in order for the cap to rotate because the sear bar fits in a clearance cut in the cap.
Don R.
Registered User
I remember reading that you have to remove the pin in the back of the Tell 3 cap so that you can turn it. I see no way to remove it? Is there a trick to it? There is nothing to get a hold of?
Registered User
Pretty sure you need to drill it out - also note the grip frame has to be removed in order for the cap to rotate because the sear bar fits in a clearance cut in the cap.
Don R.
Registered User
What was Mr Foss thinking? LolOriginally Posted by draitzer
Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
I have only disassembled three of these but in each case the pin came out fairly easily. It seems to have been made to be a loose fit and once out didn't need much pushing back. Tapping and turning the cap slightly backwards and forwards allowed enough of it to emerge so that you could pull itout with pliers. Of course I could have been just lucky. Not a great design feature though whichever way you look at it.
Registered User
That’s what I thought I read before. I’ve got three now and the boxed one seems like that would possibly happen easily, but it’s fine and no reason to mess with it. The other two I would like to take apart, one is low on power and the other will not stay cocked? But those two aren’t wanting to fall out, but just started, just wanted to know I was on the right track, appears I am. Thanks.
I think I may have to give the nod to Hugo Schmeisser for design with the 28, no pins! Just screw it off. Foss’s design is pretty complex it seems to me?. The way it cocks then part of the mechanism moved back as you pull up the barrel?
Last edited by 45flint; 12-03-2019 at 10:12 PM.
Registered User
Working the lubricant into the mechanism seems to be helping the cocking issue on the second one from the auction. I’m sure it hasn’t seen oil in a while? Low power is on my old one with the cracked grip, not sure that’s critical at this point? But on both of these, that pin doesn’t move at all?
Last edited by 45flint; 12-03-2019 at 10:50 PM.
Registered User
Without taking my one apart again, I think I rembember that there is a small slotted screw you need to remove, which is accessed through a small hole on top of the cocking linkage and just forward of the cap at the back, I don’t remember having to remove that pin that has been discussed, be aware that the grip is very fragile, I think it could be made of Bakelite, which over the years degrades. The one you have that shoots weakly, probably has a broken flat section piston spring, I repaired one a few years ago with the same problem, but was lucky at that time I had contact with a guy in Sweden who sent me one,I think his name was Bo Fred I have lost contact with him now.
Cheers, Lawrie.
I have had second thoughts about that little screw, If I remember, it is a trigger adjustment screw, but I still don’t remember having to remove the pin at the rear to remove the plug.
Last edited by Lawrie Amatruda; 14-03-2019 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Second thoughts
Registered User
You may not remember because some of these guns no longer have the pin? I have seen some like that when we see pics of different serial numbers.
Registered User
A possible initial alternative to drilling the pin out is to rough up the face of the pin with some abrasive paper, put a dab of superglue and stick a small stub of metal of the same diameter as the pin. Try and make it just long enough to get a grip on it with pliers and when set, pull on it without any sideways movement so as not to shear the stub till enough of the original pin is visible to allow a good grip directly on it. Penetrating oil and heating the action with a hair dryer may be enough to expand and lubricate the hole easing the extraction process.
Alternatively, you may have enough room to accurately drill a small hole in the pin and screw in a screw such as found on spectacle frames. It may well start to turn of its own accord as you drill which is a good sign that it will possibly come out by tapping and then let gravity and inertia do the work.
Failing that, I would drill it out completely without touching the action. A pin is just a pin and I do not think it will greatly affect the value of the piece if it is replaced.
The replacement pin would be partially threaded internally to facilitate future extraction should need be.
I do not know what to think about the design when pins like these are used and one has to resort to drilling to remove them.
But I certainly don't shy away from improving something if I can without ruining the uniqueness of the basic design.
HTH
Registered User
Thanks I actually thought of trying both those ideas. Will try the glue first as it seems the easiest and I think would work? Appreciate your thoughts added detail that will be helpful.
I Like Gingers Best
If the pin is loose, would something like a strong neodymium magnet pull it out enough to get a hold of it?
blah blah
Registered User
Tried that one: no go
Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
You could try applying heat to the metal around the pin first , say with a soldering iron, to help break the bond between the pin and frame.
Incidentally, the little screw on top of the cylinder that is accessed through the cocking link is the sear adjusting screw.
part time super hero and seeker of justice
I haven't got a clue what I'm talking about with these pistols BUT looking at the pic of one stripped here
https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery....tol/#post-3316
I would assume that the pin can only go through the end cap and be located in that back block/ trigger block? If so , then i would suspect that if you canot get the pin loose, that you would not need to drill it very deep for it to be below the end cap (the cap thickness). Then with the cap removed you could drill the rest out of the block?
A really good welder like Edbear could probably built up the pin with weld enough for you to be able to grips it with something (or weld a nut on).
I have seen early Diana 25 pistons where they have a pin through the side of the piston, that pushes against the piston washer screw---And these need drilling out to remove the screw.
Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"
Registered User
Probably a lesson in trying the easiest things first. Both my issues with my Tells were solved with lubrication without taking apart the guns. I put a lot of lubricant into the cocking mechanism in the rear of the gun and keep working it, the one gun now cocks and holds. The low powered one is now at 260 FPS, I’m assuming the oil has swelled some dry leather seals. Worry about the pins another day which is fine with me.
Posting Permissions
