Tell 3 pistol disassembly- the back pin?

[45flint]

Working the lubricant into the mechanism seems to be helping the cocking issue on the second one from the auction. I’m sure it hasn’t seen oil in a while? Low power is on my old one with the cracked grip, not sure that’s critical at this point? But on both of these, that pin doesn’t move at all?

[Lawrie Amatruda]

Without taking my one apart again, I think I rembember that there is a small slotted screw you need to remove, which is accessed through a small hole on top of the cocking linkage and just forward of the cap at the back, I don’t remember having to remove that pin that has been discussed, be aware that the grip is very fragile, I think it could be made of Bakelite, which over the years degrades. The one you have that shoots weakly, probably has a broken flat section piston spring, I repaired one a few years ago with the same problem, but was lucky at that time I had contact with a guy in Sweden who sent me one,I think his name was Bo Fred I have lost contact with him now.
Cheers, Lawrie.

I have had second thoughts about that little screw, If I remember, it is a trigger adjustment screw, but I still don’t remember having to remove the pin at the rear to remove the plug.

[45flint]

Without taking my one apart again, I think I rembember that there is a small slotted screw you need to remove, which is accessed through a small hole on top of the cocking linkage and just forward of the cap at the back, I don’t remember having to remove that pin that has been discussed, be aware that the grip is very fragile, I think it could be made of Bakelite, which over the years degrades. The one you have that shoots weakly, probably has a broken flat section piston spring, I repaired one a few years ago with the same problem, but was lucky at that time I had contact with a guy in Sweden who sent me one,I think his name was Bo Fred I have lost contact with him now.
Cheers, Lawrie.

I have had second thoughts about that little screw, If I remember, it is a trigger adjustment screw, but I still don’t remember having to remove the pin at the rear to remove the plug.

You may not remember because some of these guns no longer have the pin? I have seen some like that when we see pics of different serial numbers.

[dvd]

A possible initial alternative to drilling the pin out is to rough up the face of the pin with some abrasive paper, put a dab of superglue and stick a small stub of metal of the same diameter as the pin. Try and make it just long enough to get a grip on it with pliers and when set, pull on it without any sideways movement so as not to shear the stub till enough of the original pin is visible to allow a good grip directly on it. Penetrating oil and heating the action with a hair dryer may be enough to expand and lubricate the hole easing the extraction process.

Alternatively, you may have enough room to accurately drill a small hole in the pin and screw in a screw such as found on spectacle frames. It may well start to turn of its own accord as you drill which is a good sign that it will possibly come out by tapping and then let gravity and inertia do the work.

Failing that, I would drill it out completely without touching the action. A pin is just a pin and I do not think it will greatly affect the value of the piece if it is replaced.
The replacement pin would be partially threaded internally to facilitate future extraction should need be.

I do not know what to think about the design when pins like these are used and one has to resort to drilling to remove them.
But I certainly don't shy away from improving something if I can without ruining the uniqueness of the basic design.
HTH

[45flint]

A possible initial alternative to drilling the pin out is to rough up the face of the pin with some abrasive paper, put a dab of superglue and stick a small stub of metal of the same diameter as the pin. Try and make it just long enough to get a grip on it with pliers and when set, pull on it without any sideways movement so as not to shear the stub till enough of the original pin is visible to allow a good grip directly on it. Penetrating oil and heating the action with a hair dryer may be enough to expand and lubricate the hole easing the extraction process.

Alternatively, you may have enough room to accurately drill a small hole in the pin and screw in a screw such as found on spectacle frames. It may well start to turn of its own accord as you drill which is a good sign that it will possibly come out by tapping and then let gravity and inertia do the work.

Failing that, I would drill it out completely without touching the action. A pin is just a pin and I do not think it will greatly affect the value of the piece if it is replaced.
The replacement pin would be partially threaded internally to facilitate future extraction should need be.

I do not know what to think about the design when pins like these are used and one has to resort to drilling to remove them.
But I certainly don't shy away from improving something if I can without ruining the uniqueness of the basic design.
HTH

Thanks I actually thought of trying both those ideas. Will try the glue first as it seems the easiest and I think would work? Appreciate your thoughts added detail that will be helpful.

[DCL_dave]

If the pin is loose, would something like a strong neodymium magnet pull it out enough to get a hold of it?

[45flint]

If the pin is loose, would something like a strong neodymium magnet pull it out enough to get a hold of it?

Tried that one: no go