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Thread: Vintage Scopes

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    harvey_s's Avatar
    harvey_s is offline Lost love child of David Niven and Victoria Beckham
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    Vintage Scopes

    Learned collective a few questions on the subject...

    Moving image types...are there any pros & cons to this system, I believe sometimes the recticle can appear one-sided in some cases? are there other alignment issues? are all of them marked 'moving image' and if not how can you tell without cranking the adjusters right over?

    Reticles... if one breaks, is either a DIY or professional repair viable or does it usually scrap the scope and if a DIY repair is possible does the loss of nitrogen (is there actually any left in a 20-30 year old scope?) cause issues.

    Anything else one should consider?

    Apologies about all the questions, it's just I'm only just beginning to appreciate some of the better older stuff

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    It can be hard to tell without testing whether the reticle remains centred. Pecar scopes are marked on the adjuster saddle, just a dot means moving reticle, a dot in a circle means permanently centred reticle (I think, happy to be corrected). Some old scopes have no windage adjustment, so they're easy to tell. I have a Nickel scope with elevation and windage turrets, but the reticle does not stay centred.

    If the reticle is not much off centre it's not too bad, but I prefer them centred. Look for mounts with windage adjustment built in, and depending on the mount design, you can use shims to correct the elevation. In my experience they hold zero very well once set.

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    harvey_s is offline Lost love child of David Niven and Victoria Beckham
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the input Bill, I'm surprised at just one person with any interest in the subject here...has no-one ever had or attempted repairs to old scopes?

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    I suspect the general feeling is if it is broken it is to expensive to get a professional repair done, and not really worth the effort for an amateur repair. It is more time or cost effective to find a working one.
    Rich.
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    Image moving is a good thing - like all modern scopes - it means the reticule stays centred.

    the old scopes that are not image moving are those where the ret moves, and can be off centre. Not so good, but it works.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

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    If you can dismantle the scope, then I don't think fixing the reticle would be too difficult. I have seen very fine wire advertised for crosshair repair on the auction site, so a basic crosshair should be achievable. I wouldn't worry about nitrogen loss, I suspect it will be long gone from these scopes.

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    harvey_s is offline Lost love child of David Niven and Victoria Beckham
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    Image moving is a good thing - like all modern scopes - it means the reticule stays centred.

    the old scopes that are not image moving are those where the ret moves, and can be off centre. Not so good, but it works.
    Ahhh... I see I've got it arse about face then

    (I knew I'd learn something here )

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    Quote Originally Posted by bill57 View Post
    If you can dismantle the scope, then I don't think fixing the reticle would be too difficult. I have seen very fine wire advertised for crosshair repair on the auction site, so a basic crosshair should be achievable. I wouldn't worry about nitrogen loss, I suspect it will be long gone from these scopes.
    I have also seen this .005" tungsten wire advertised and articles relating to repairing finderscopes on telescopes, so I wondered if anyone had tried it...I assume the dismantling without damage is the tough bit!

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    I have a scrap Kassnar Vista scope somewhere (broken ret). Maybe I will try taking it apart and if that goes well see if we can repair the reticle and report my findings.
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by averageplinker View Post
    I have a scrap Kassnar Vista scope somewhere (broken ret). Maybe I will try taking it apart and if that goes well see if we can repair the reticle and report my findings.
    That would be interesting...thank you.

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    Here's a Sornet 6x42. All steel, nice plum colour, German 3 post reticle. It has only elevation adjustment, so the windage is done using the screws visible under the rear mount. The rear mount is also shimmed so the reticle is nicely centred.

    Last edited by bill57; 16-03-2019 at 02:10 PM.

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    Never mind the scope that sidelever rifle is bloody gorgeous!!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by harvey_s View Post
    That would be interesting...thank you.
    Might even try this afternoon whilst cheering on Ireland (hoping they do England a favour!)
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    Ok, halftime in the rugby so I will update my findings on the scope so far.....

    It is a Kassnar Vistascope 3-9x40, made in Korea. The reticle is snapped and the mag ring is notchy and stiff at the higher end, say x7-9. One of the turret caps is dented and scratched. Therefore I am guessing it has been dropped to break the ret rather than being a victim of Springer recoil.


    The ret is surprisingly easy to get at on this model. All I had to do was wind out the fast focus eyeball until it was off. I guess if there was any nitrogen in there it is diluted now!

    This revealed the ret still in the scope held in a circular metal collar by three tiny screws. 2 came out easily. The third was rusty and has probably been chimped by earlier attempts to fix it by person/s unknown as I cannot get a screwdriver to bite. If I can come up with a way of getting it out I will update further.

    Cheers Rich
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    Somewhere there is a scope repairer, but costs start at £50. Thats a bit heavy as its more than many a cheap period scope. Plus the repair might not be successful.

    Old glass can deteriorate. Nitrogen helps stop mould forming. Cosshairs were once wire, sometimes just soldered to form a cross, other times stamped out cut to shape. The wires can go brittle and break.
    Some of the metals used were soft and poor quality. Some tin pot and oxidise.
    Basically cheap scopes made to a price can be quite fragile. Not all expensive ones do much better.

    There is some luck involved. If you have a good one look after it, and store sensibly.

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