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Thread: Webley Senior cocking link spring replacement - pin removal?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Cambridge
    Posts
    48

    Webley Senior cocking link spring replacement - pin removal?

    Hi all - possibly obscure but someone here might have a tip. I have limited tools, but have a small punch and hammer. I need to replace the tiny spring that fits on the cocking arm of my Senior. The old one has given up. Knibbs sent out a replacement, but I'm having no joy removing the pin that holds the two parts of the arm and the spring. It's obviously never been apart before, and I would like to keep my scratching of the blueing to a minimum!
    Anyone have any bright ideas about how to go about driving the pin out, and peening it back after the surgery - or is the a cunning way of threading the new spring on there?!
    (Am away for 24 hrs but will be back at it on my return - Thanks in advance and happy weekend!)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    grimsby
    Posts
    164

    cocking link.

    Hi there,i have a book on air rifle and pistol repair and maintenance.The Webley Senior shown here looks early and the book says the buffer pin and small compression spring will eject out of their hole.If these are seized,tap out using a small screwdriver angled on the buffer tip.Hope this is off some help.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    grimsby
    Posts
    164

    cocking link.

    Hi there,i have a maintenance book on air rifles and pistols.It shows a Webley Senior being stripped and on the the cocking linkit says the buffer pin and small compression spring will eject out of their hole.If these are seized,tap out using a small screwdriver angled on the buffer tip.Hope this is of some help to you.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Christchurch
    Posts
    4,843
    I strip these quite often and found that a larger diameter punch that has a short piece at the tip, say 3/16 inch long ground down to the pin diameter or smaller, is great for getting them to start to move, then finish them off with the correct small punch.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    LONDON COLNEY
    Posts
    249
    sometimes there’s a slight taper to the pin hole making it tight, if possible check that your trying to remove from the opposite side that it was driven in, other than that as previous posters.
    Dave.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Christchurch
    Posts
    4,843
    They can be tight but I find you can deliver more impact with this..

    [IMG][/IMG]
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Winchester, UK
    Posts
    15,365
    I agree with the above; don't try and shift the pin with a standard length 1/16" pin punch, it is likely to break, and do place the offending item on a firm surface.

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