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Thread: Webley MK3

  1. #1
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    Webley MK3

    I have a Webley mark3 underlever which I have had since I was a lad which is a long time ,just recently on cocking and firing it lets out what can only be described as a loud burp, on re-cocking it usually fires no problem ,then twenty or so shots later it does it again.
    I have stripped and cleaned everything applying a little silicone grease where needed, but this has not cured the problem, everything inside looks in fine condition but it has not cured things at all, any advice please greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Sounds like an air leak issue to me with three possible causes:-

    Leaking loading tap. Also guessing that the loading tap is the only area where you have used the silicone grease?

    Piston washer. Undersized or hardened. Check the fit / hardness. Soak to make supple again or replace as required.

    Out of round or bulged cylinder (hopefully not!).
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  3. #3
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    When you say silicone grease, what grease are you talking about and where did you put it?
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
    Sounds like an air leak issue to me with three possible causes:-

    Leaking loading tap. Also guessing that the loading tap is the only area where you have used the silicone grease?

    Piston washer. Undersized or hardened. Check the fit / hardness. Soak to make supple again or replace as required.

    Out of round or bulged cylinder (hopefully not!).
    If the loading tap is opened there is a hiss of air, as if it was trapped? the slide the spring fits in was covered in hardened grease which I have cleaned off and buffed to a shine carefully , in using the word grease I should have said lubricant it is a dry silicone spray called Silotec which was sprayed on and wiped any residue off ,it can be used to dry lubricate curtain tracks and the like where no residue can cause stains or a greasy build up to collect dirt or grit, the only place I used white grease was on the loading tap, the leather washer has been cleaned and re-soaked in my usual gun oil and then all excess wiped off, thankyou for your comments ,did I do wrong?, Paul.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by averageplinker View Post
    When you say silicone grease, what grease are you talking about and where did you put it?
    A dry silicone spray on internals, and then wiped off, white grease on the loading tap, thin gun oil to soak the leather washer and then wipe all residue off , after a good clean and all the above the fault has not changed and is still intermittent, after the Burp if the tap is opened there is a small hiss of air, the pellet has not fired and is not deformed or stuck, thanks ,Paul.

  6. #6
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    Hi Paul, I've always been warned against using any silicone oil/grease on springers. However, I have also been advised to use a mix of silicone grease and moly grease on the leather washer. Just a very light smear of both. I used this on an Airsporter Mk1 washer and it worked well. But apparently silicone can cause problems where there is metal to metal contact. However the problem occurred before you used the silicone. Hmmm. What kind of grease are you using on the spring? And is the spring still straight?

    I hope it's ok to ask another Mk3 related question:
    I'm doing some experiments with my Mk3 which is a mix of parts (fluted stock, early type trigger, later cylinder with secured scope rail, sleeved transfer port, synthetic piston seal, shortened barrel).
    Does this look like too much preload? 5 coils sticking out. The gun is "snappy". I'm thinking: 3 coils off. It's a new Protek spring.
    Must test power, will do soon and report.


  7. #7
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    From our scribbles .22 Cal. Springs (mm) 1) 230 x 21.5 X 3 x 29/27 coils x 40 lb/inch rate 540 ft/s Jets. 515 Caledonian 470 ft/s S'dome

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    Quote Originally Posted by deejayuu View Post
    From our scribbles .22 Cal. Springs (mm) 1) 230 x 21.5 X 3 x 29/27 coils x 40 lb/inch rate 540 ft/s Jets. 515 Caledonian 470 ft/s S'dome
    Thank you!
    That's only about 7 ft.lbs?
    I thought MkIII's should produce 10-11 ft.lbs.

  9. #9
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    Tap loaders

    Many years ago a friend and I were joined on our shooting with a guy with a Webley Mk 3. Occaisionally he would pull the trigger and get a very low powered shot. Eventually we noticed his loading procedure, on the poor shots he opened the tap, inserted a pellet then cocked the rifle, result a blocked transfer port and not enough air. After we kindly pointed this out and he tried cocking the rifle first we never saw him again!
    HTH David

  10. #10
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    Hi,
    Aside from your issue. I would dismantle and reclean the internals and use lubricants more commonly used in air rifles rather than curtain rails. So high moly grease and something like neatsfoot oil on the leather washer. (This is available in a small dispenser from Protek Supplies.)
    There is a thread somewhere on here about an old school lube tune that should have lots of info that would help.
    I wonder if you were to wipe the oil off the leather washer and soak it in the neatsfoot oil, allow it to sink in then wipe off the excess, it will expand to form a better seal and fire with greater power?
    Rich.
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  11. #11
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    As per the above two posts.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 4/5, 2024.........BOING!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisvanhovell View Post
    Hi Paul, I've always been warned against using any silicone oil/grease on springers. However, I have also been advised to use a mix of silicone grease and moly grease on the leather washer. Just a very light smear of both. I used this on an Airsporter Mk1 washer and it worked well. But apparently silicone can cause problems where there is metal to metal contact. However the problem occurred before you used the silicone. Hmmm. What kind of grease are you using on the spring? And is the spring still straight?

    I hope it's ok to ask another Mk3 related question:
    I'm doing some experiments with my Mk3 which is a mix of parts (fluted stock, early type trigger, later cylinder with secured scope rail, sleeved transfer port, synthetic piston seal, shortened barrel).
    Does this look like too much preload? 5 coils sticking out. The gun is "snappy". I'm thinking: 3 coils off. It's a new Protek spring.
    Must test power, will do soon and report.

    Hi I used Bisley white grease but very little ,thinking silicone on the slide and wiping it off possible mistake, white grease on the breech plug and gun oil on the leather washer, had it to pieces half a dozen times now and it is still behaving the same, have also looked up a list of parts and see that on John knibbs list is a rubber breech washer ? not sure if this is a part for a mark 3 also did not find any remnants of one on taking it apart, I have counted the spring coils and four protrude before putting the rear trigger assembly , needs pressure but not excessive to start the threads.
    As long as you do a crono test after to seeif its over the limit, some time ago I had a new spring put in my Airsporter and it ended up with quite a slapping sound when used it has been back to a different gunsmith and he could find nothing wrong and the two springs are genuine BSA parts not an upgrade.
    Thanks, Paul.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by averageplinker View Post
    Hi,
    Aside from your issue. I would dismantle and reclean the internals and use lubricants more commonly used in air rifles rather than curtain rails. So high moly grease and something like neatsfoot oil on the leather washer. (This is available in a small dispenser from Protek Supplies.)
    There is a thread somewhere on here about an old school lube tune that should have lots of info that would help.
    I wonder if you were to wipe the oil off the leather washer and soak it in the neatsfoot oil, allow it to sink in then wipe off the excess, it will expand to form a better seal and fire with greater power?
    Rich.
    Thanks for the info ,did think neatsfoot would have been better for the washer , and high moly grease will have to have another go, another reply mentions how to load it I have always cocked a rifle and then put in the pellet, why should this make a difference? I have been using springers of all descriptions for over sixty eight years underlevers especially never had a problem of this type before.

  14. #14
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    I have picked up a couple of leather piston washered break barrels over the years that had not been used for a while. On testing I found that some shots would send the pellet out and some wouldn't. I always try the simple solutions first and have put a few drops of neatsfoot into the transfer port and left it to soak into the washer for about a week. On both occasions this has fixed the issue. And yes the odd shots did sometimes sound "farty"!
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by averageplinker View Post
    I have picked up a couple of leather piston washered break barrels over the years that had not been used for a while. On testing I found that some shots would send the pellet out and some wouldn't. I always try the simple solutions first and have put a few drops of neatsfoot into the transfer port and left it to soak into the washer for about a week. On both occasions this has fixed the issue. And yes the odd shots did sometimes sound "farty"!
    Thanks for that I will try that first then strip clean and lubricate properly as advised .

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