Original 65 info

[peddy]

I've chance of purchasing the above in may. Family owned from new, described as very good, walnut stock, complete overall 20 years ago by Frank dyke, not used since. I know beggar all about these, so any info regarding reliability, power and value would be appreciated.

[Benelli B76]

These are lovely rifles to shoot, and if it has been properly resealed should give no problem for years to come. Without repeating a lot of info, read the posts on the 6M pistol as this rifle has basically the same compression cylinder mechanism, only a bit longer to give a bit more power. The trigger group also has a few more parts. Ask the owners if it was resealed 20 years ago as it probably had better quality polyurethane seals fitted then. As for power I never had a chrony when I resealed the last one but I would guess up to 6 ft lb, perhaps present or former owners can confirm. Just in passing, I would love to get hold of a model 60.

Baz

[Alanok2002]

These are lovely rifles to shoot, and if it has been properly resealed should give no problem for years to come. Without repeating a lot of info, read the posts on the 6M pistol as this rifle has basically the same compression cylinder mechanism, only a bit longer to give a bit more power. The trigger group also has a few more parts. Ask the owners if it was resealed 20 years ago as it probably had better quality polyurethane seals fitted then. As for power I never had a chrony when I resealed the last one but I would guess up to 6 ft lb, perhaps present or former owners can confirm. Just in passing, I would love to get hold of a model 60.

Baz

Ive got a mod 66 that needs new seals which ive now got is there a strip down guide anywhere thanks

[T 20]

Ive got a mod 66 that needs new seals which ive now got is there a strip down guide anywhere thanks

Hi Al, I think UKNeil striped and rebuilt Vale Boy's 66 and it was all published in Airgunner.

[peddy]

Thanks for info, what sort of price guide on the 65, in say good complete condition? I thought between 100 and 150? What's the difference between the 60 , 65 and 66?

[Garvin]

Thanks for info, what sort of price guide on the 65, in say good complete condition? I thought between 100 and 150? What's the difference between the 60 , 65 and 66?

I would have thought the upper end of that estimate, at least. I sold a minter 65, hardly fired, for about £250 IIRC (it was years ago so I may be wrong).

The mod 60 was shorter in length and lighter and had no barrel lock. When it had a barrel sleeve weight this put a lot of pressure on the breach detent. The 65 had a heavier barrel sleeve and a cam barrel lock. The 66 was identical (I think) but had a squared off match stock.

What Baz says about the seals is important, as with all of the Giss models.

[Alanok2002]

Hi Al, I think UKNeil striped and rebuilt Vale Boy's 66 and it was all published in Airgunner.

Sent him a message bit not replied yet ive got one part of magazine bit not other part as it was done over 2 magazines

[T 20]

Sent him a message bit not replied yet ive got one part of magazine bit not other part as it was done over 2 magazines

If part one shows you how to take the gun apart, you could just read it backwards to put it back together, Al.

[cooper_dan]

The Diana Giss rifles are probably my absolute favourite airguns. But don't expect much power. Re-sealed ones will give up to roughly 5.5 ft-lb but that's about their limit (although some do seem to run faster than others).
Don't be tempted to try for more power though as you don't want to over stress the timing gears. Best to enjoy them in standard spec and get loads of reliable use from them.

The original seals will have crumbled by now (as they were prone to do) so hopefully it has been re-sealed with the newer type. If it does need re-sealing, make sure to shim the end cap properly, this is sometimes forgotten and will make a difference to how 'dead' they feel when firing.

I've got a 65 and a 66, both running at about 4.5 ft-lb. Over 10m or 8y bell target they are excellent.

[Alanok2002]

The Diana Giss rifles are probably my absolute favourite airguns. But don't expect much power. Re-sealed ones will give up to roughly 5.5 ft-lb but that's about their limit (although some do seem to run faster than others).
Don't be tempted to try for more power though as you don't want to over stress the timing gears. Best to enjoy them in standard spec and get loads of reliable use from them.

The original seals will have crumbled by now (as they were prone to do) so hopefully it has been re-sealed with the newer type. If it does need re-sealing, make sure to shim the end cap properly, this is sometimes forgotten and will make a difference to how 'dead' they feel when firing.

I've got a 65 and a 66, both running at about 4.5 ft-lb. Over 10m or 8y bell target they are excellent.

How do ypu shim the end cap properly as changing seals on mine tomorrow

[T 20]

How do ypu shim the end cap properly as changing seals on mine tomorrow

One thing I seem to remember from talking to Neil is to mark the gears and racks with paint before removal so that you can time them back up when putting them back in, Al.

[Benelli B76]

I used to mark the gears and racks slightly with a dremel, but after doing so many now I don't need to. Using a sash clamp and spacing washer I compress the back piston in until it is slightly below the back of the pistol so that I can fit the original spacer. Then I drop the little gears in place, and this is the critical thing, the gears must fit in with no effort so they do not need to be forced, and hole in them must be central to the aperture so that the spindles on the side caps go in easily and the caps can be screwed in just using your fingers. The nice thing about these pistols is once the side spindles are screwed in the whole system is held in place without the back end cap screwed on. When everything is in place I put the original spacer in and screw on the the end cap and locking screw. If the gears have been forced in it means the racks can be out of position by one tooth and when fired for the the first time a tooth will probably be broken off.

Baz

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[cooper_dan]

When its reassembled the dummy piston will sit underflush to the end of the action. This depth should be checked against the build manual (i think its something like 0.6mm plus or minus a bit but I'm probably wrong). This needs to be within tolerance otherwise the stepped spacer wont be doing its job properly.

The end cap has a locking screw which threads into the action. If the new seals are different in height to the original ones the locking screw holes in the action and end cap will not line up. Then the locking screw wont go back in the correct place. The shim between the end cap and the stepped spacer is adjusted to get this lined up

[Benelli B76]

Stand by for launch, UK first moon landing attempt.

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[Alanok2002]

Thats great thanks folks