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Thread: Diana Giss advice needed

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    cardiff, south wales.
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    The spacer should be stepped so the rear bumper of the rear piston just about touches it after firing to prevent over travel of the rear piston and trashing of the gears, the shims if any in the end cap are used to adjust it. I believe the screw is drilled at the factory once set up, so may not always line up on reassembly after a service.

    John
    Law of any kind only affects those willing to abide by it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    When the Giss system is completely assembled you can check if everything is spaced correctly by unscrewing one of the side pinions. They should not be under
    stress and unscrew easily. I often see these chewed up because they have been forced to centralise in the thread. Also the little gear wheels should look absolutely central while sitting in the two racks and be easy to lift out.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Oh ok. If I turn the stepped spacer round so it's facing the right way & screw the cap fully home until it stops the caps over the gears on the sides are free to undo & the gears look central, so is this the correct timing/clearance?
    Does this not mean that the rear piston is under a small amount of load when the rifle is unlocked, will it not reach the end of its travel fractionally before the front piston?
    Sorry if I'm overcomplicating things.
    Thanks.
    Neil.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilnrLincoln View Post
    Oh ok. If I turn the stepped spacer round so it's facing the right way & screw the cap fully home until it stops the caps over the gears on the sides are free to undo & the gears look central, so is this the correct timing/clearance?
    Does this not mean that the rear piston is under a small amount of load when the rifle is unlocked, will it not reach the end of its travel fractionally before the front piston?
    Sorry if I'm overcomplicating things.
    Thanks.
    Neil.
    You are a bit. The goal is that the gear teeth are not under load when the pistons stop. If they are assembled incorrectly the gear teeth received a shock loading and one or two can break off. The proof is as I already said above, the caps will be hard to remove because of the side pressure, and the little gear wheels will be slightly off centre when the caps are removed.The large back cap must always be in place when you do this kind of check.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Lincoln
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    Excellent, thanks for your help. In that case I'll turn the stepped spacer the correct way round so when the rear cap is tightened up the load is taken off the gears & put a blob of Loctite on the end cap to prevent it unscrewing.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilnrLincoln View Post
    Excellent, thanks for your help. In that case I'll turn the stepped spacer the correct way round so when the rear cap is tightened up the load is taken off the gears & put a blob of Loctite on the end cap to prevent it unscrewing.
    I'm sure you're planning to do this anyway, Neil, but as Baz says, make sure you unscrew one of the little gear caps and check the toothed wheel inside is free when the end cap is screwed on (before you Loctite it, obviously!).
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Lincoln
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    807
    Will do Garvin, thankyou all for your excellent advice. I'm reassured now that it's (hopefully) not going to destroy itself .

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