BSA Stock bolt well and truly stuck! :(

[Huttles94]

I am having trouble getting the stock bolt out of my 1906 BSA LJ pat.

Seems to be well and truly seized. Already broken a couple of cheap screw drivers and one good one trying to get it out.

Weird thing is, the stock and trigger block are loose, as in I can wobble them about and it looks like the stock bolt can turn slightly inside the trigger block (the head does not turn in the stock just the threaded end in the trigger block). But that is it.

Tried soaking it in WD40 but it is still stuck.

The stock had a small crack near the front end when I got it and after trying to force the bolt, it looks like the split is getting larger and I really dont want to break the thing.

Anyone any ideas?

Thank you,

[piggy589]

If it's been in there for over a hundred years it warrants some patience getting it out.

A length of 50mm down pipe stuck to the remains of a number plate and filled with weasel...sorry diesel.

As recommended by the Shed tuner.

Invert the action and dip it in for a day or so.

[johnbaz]

The stock on my 1936 break barrel is slightly loose and moving, I tried tightening it with a large driver, No luck at all, I think the next move is a hot air gun on the trigger block to see if it will expand and loosen it's grip slightly on the bolt!!

If it doesn't move, I can live with it


John

[arnie2b]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brace_...eherklinge.jpg
Trick is to tap it hard at the bottom of the brace hard to explain online but you have loads more force that way and the shock of tapping can loosen the screw, otherwise the imact driver comes out.
Hold the gun properly in a vice.

[crowbar]

Heat the bolt with a soldering iron then give it a sharp whack with a impact driver .

[johnbaz]

Heat the bolt with a soldering iron then give it a sharp whack with a impact driver .

Trouble is that the bolt is around four inches long and is actually stuck in the back end of the trigger block

If heat is applied to the trigger block, It should expand it- Hopefully less than it expands the bolt, This way it could loosen it's grip on the bolt..

I just tried a 12" bronze 1/2" dia rod down it, Tapped it on the head of the bolt and it's actually loosened ever so slightly, Strange thing is that when I tight it, It becomes loose, If I undo it by the 10° or so, It grips the stock better!!


John

[ptdunk]

The stock had a small crack near the front end when I got it and after trying to force the bolt, it looks like the split is getting larger and I really dont want to break the thing.

Anyone any ideas?

Thank you,

Hi,
Take care not to hold the stock when you're trying to undo the bolt, my 1910 has a locating bar sticking out of the back of the trigger block that locates in a hole in the neck of the stock.
Any rotation of the stock against that bar will eventually crack the stock so be sure to secure the trigger block in a vice (with appropriate protection)

Matt.

[DAVALI]

It’s probably the rust on the bold that’s making it hard to remove, as stated try tightening up and undoing a bit at a time, you have to support both action and stock so that you don’t damage the stock anymore, I’ve removed many by this method, the bolts are not plated and 100 years have taken there toll.
Dave.

[johnbaz]

Just had another go at mine, I put a leather gauntlet welding glove in the jaws of the vise and it unscrewed quite easily, It seemed to be stopping dead when I screwed it tightly home but still the sloppy stock so I removed the bolt to find damaged threads and something like 'liquid steel' in there

Anyhow, I screwed it in by hand whilst there was no stock on and it seemed to work as it should so I made a washer to the size of the head of the bolt, There was a very thin one on already which disappeared somewhere in the garage!, The one I made was thicker, In short, It's really nice and tight now, There wasn't any rust at all but the stuff that was on the threads seemed like some kind of grey threadlock!!

Now comes the next problem! I removed the butt plug (Ooo-er missus! ) weeks ago and don't have a clue where the heck it is now so it looks like i'll be making one tomorrow, Also, The breech seal is doing nothing to stop the piston slamming in to the end of the cylinder and a lot of power is being lost through it so, Another little job for tomozz!!

It's ok as i'm off work for a few weeks due to getting my new Bionic knee!! (That's bluddy killing me daily!! )




John

[bozz]

Hi great things these bionic knees I've had four and a half now in five years, wish it was so simple as fixing an air rifle ouch!!!
Hope it gets better soon the knee I hope , I'm sure the air rifle will work out a treat. All the best Graham.

[deejayuu]

From description I agree with suggestion that it's rust bonded to the wood. I would pour vinegar down the recess. Leave overnight. Clamp stock, shock the bolt, try to rotate the bolt. If that fails. Clamp action then shock the stock "forward" on the bolt. Next clamp the stock and shock the bolt forward in the stock.
Repeat the process with due protection for all surfaces.

[Binners]

Don't laugh but have you removed the trigger guard rear screw? I heard s story that someone with a sloppy wood screw (not uncommon) had drilled into the stock bolt and wound a 1'' stainless self tapper in

Unlikely, I know....

[Huttles94]

Don't laugh but have you removed the trigger guard rear screw? I heard s story that someone with a sloppy wood screw (not uncommon) had drilled into the stock bolt and wound a 1'' stainless self tapper in

Unlikely, I know....

Its a model that does not have a rear trigger guard screw. Good suggestion though.

I have just put some vinegar in there in the hope it will free it up. I know its not good for the stock but neither is it being stuck.

So im going to leave it a few days and try again.

Thanks for all the suggestion everyone!

[Binners]

Its a model that does not have a rear trigger guard screw. Good suggestion though.

I have just put some vinegar in there in the hope it will free it up. I know its not good for the stock but neither is it being stuck.

So im going to leave it a few days and try again.

Thanks for all the suggestion everyone!

I hate being beat by this problem, but I had one that I tried all the tricks on and I am reasonably strong. This B$%^&*D would not shift, so I had to admit defeat and with tail between my legs, I handed it over to Paul O'Donnell (Airgun Clever Sod) that stalls at Kempton.

He returned to me the next day, all stripped and shiny. So if this really wont have it, get it to me. I'd like to wipe that smug look off his boat

[pjbingham]

I have stripped one or two rusty old Beesa’s and have found that the stock bolt is rarely rusted in the trigger block it’s rusted to the wood of the stock which can be surprisingly hard to shift. I splosh some linseed oil down there for a couple of days and prop the stock up so it drains down. My secret weapon is a Yankee screwdriver,one of those old ratcheting types from yesteryear that you can still get quite cheaply off Fleabay,I will have to check what size it is but the one I have fits perfectly with no sideways movement when in the stock. They have a little button which makes them go left/right or lock solid. Switch it to locked, give a couple of sharp taps with a wooden mallet and I’ve yet to find one the then puts up any real fight. I did dress the tip of the screwdriver to make it as close to the slot shape and size of the BSA stock screws, just gives you a better chance if someone has chewed it up abit in the past. Hope all that makes some sense. Atb Phil