Airsporter RB2 tune

[TonyL]

Sorry to bring the thread back on topic

accuracy test at 25 yards today with a 4x mag BSA scope... not bad with hobbies, need to find some superdomes, or large H&Ns:
]

Nice, Jon.

[Hsing-ee]

I have found that RWS Superdomes work well in 5.6mm barrels. I think they have soft skirts, and like Hobbys, they open up and grip the bore neatly once they have some high pressure air up the chuff. Give them a go.

[look no hands]

I have found that RWS Superdomes work well in 5.6mm barrels. I think they have soft skirts, and like Hobbys, they open up and grip the bore neatly once they have some high pressure air up the chuff. Give them a go.

I'm using Air Arms in my S, I think it has the same soft skirts as mentioned, I'm sure I tried Superdomes in mine but where not as good as the AA's.

Pete

[Oddbob08]

I know this thread hasn't taken a breath for over a year, but just like the RB2, I need to raise it from the dead, because, due to rose tinted memories (of a Mk7 Airsporter and a Superstar) I've gone and bought a pile of bits to make an RB2.

I'm not saying I wish I hadn't, after reading the comments on here, quite the opposite in fact, rather I'm looking forward to having a go, what could possibly go wrong?

I do have some questions though, just out of curiosity.

The barrel is 14" (in old money) and has a hole under the barrel muzzle, was it a carbine and need a muzzle weight if open sights are to be fitted? My eyes are to old for open sights but just curious.

At the breech block end there is a pin which, to a man with a hefty hammer, gives the impression that some brute force will allow the old BSA .2222222 calibre barrel to be swapped out for a .22 or maybe even .177 calibre tube with a slightly tighter breech and a wider choice of pellet. To anyone who says getting a pellet in a .177 breech from a .22 RB will be tricky, bear in mind that my first airgun was a Crosman 766 so that wouldn't put me off.

And then there's that alloy block which sits under the end of the cylinder and is secured by an allen stud, what's that all about? Is it just a bit of support for the underlever? Does it need to be nice and tight or a rattling good fit?

[look no hands]

I know this thread hasn't taken a breath for over a year, but just like the RB2, I need to raise it from the dead, because, due to rose tinted memories (of a Mk7 Airsporter and a Superstar) I've gone and bought a pile of bits to make an RB2.

I'm not saying I wish I hadn't, after reading the comments on here, quite the opposite in fact, rather I'm looking forward to having a go, what could possibly go wrong?

I do have some questions though, just out of curiosity.

The barrel is 14" (in old money) and has a hole under the barrel muzzle, was it a carbine and need a muzzle weight if open sights are to be fitted? My eyes are to old for open sights but just curious.

At the breech block end there is a pin which, to a man with a hefty hammer, gives the impression that some brute force will allow the old BSA .2222222 calibre barrel to be swapped out for a .22 or maybe even .177 calibre tube with a slightly tighter breech and a wider choice of pellet. To anyone who says getting a pellet in a .177 breech from a .22 RB will be tricky, bear in mind that my first airgun was a Crosman 766 so that wouldn't put me off.

And then there's that alloy block which sits under the end of the cylinder and is secured by an allen stud, what's that all about? Is it just a bit of support for the underlever? Does it need to be nice and tight or a rattling good fit?

If I remember correctly the alloy block is to stop the cocking linkage from coming back to far and coming out the cocking slot, as for the barrel, I think they are sweated in as well as pinned, so not easy to get out, you could machine the old one out and thread a new one in.

Pete

[Shed tuner]

as above... but I do think the alloy block adds support / reduces flex during cocking too. firm, but not crazy tight - and defo not loose / rattling.

Is yours the maxgrip raised scope ramp ? If so it may well be designed with an ally muzzle weight fitting, whcih also lifts the foresight arrangement to line up with the open sight that mount onto the maxgrip.

[look no hands]

as above... but I do think the alloy block adds support / reduces flex during cocking too. firm, but not crazy tight - and defo not loose / rattling.

Is yours the maxgrip raised scope ramp ? If so it may well be designed with an ally muzzle weight fitting, whcih also lifts the foresight arrangement to line up with the open sight that mount onto the maxgrip.

Yes I forgot about mentioning the front sight set up, if the barrel is shorter then it is most probably a carbine, the threaded hole underneath will be for the attachment of the barrel weight and the front sights will then attach to that, if it has the front barrel weight then the rear sight will be lifted by a small metal block that screws into the sight mounting and then the sight sits on top of that.

Pete

[Oddbob08]

Thanks for the replies, pretty much as I'd thought for the barrel fitting, not sure I'd want to attempt to drill it out and thread it but that's what I may have to do with a Stingray barrel I have. Glad to say it's not Maxigrip railed, a Lightning I have actually has one of those which was out of alignment with the barrel. I have a block to fit under the rearsight, but tbh, if I do want to use open sights I think I'll be using a williams peepsight or possibly even drilling and tapping the cylinder for the BSA version used on Meteors and Buccaneers.

All this is based on the assumption I can get it shooting as sweetly as I remember my Mk7 did. When I had that, it took more rabbits than a Theoben gas ram, not because it was more accurate or powerful, but because it was so much quieter both to cock and to fire than the far-more expensive Theoben, so rabbits nearby weren't spooked. And another thing I'd like for it is a walnut stock, I've seen a used one for a Mk7, but I'm not going to polish a turd, if it won't perform it won't get it.

[greenwayjames]

I know this thread hasn't taken a breath for over a year, but just like the RB2, I need to raise it from the dead, because, due to rose tinted memories (of a Mk7 Airsporter and a Superstar) I've gone and bought a pile of bits to make an RB2.

I'm not saying I wish I hadn't, after reading the comments on here, quite the opposite in fact, rather I'm looking forward to having a go, what could possibly go wrong?

I do have some questions though, just out of curiosity.

The barrel is 14" (in old money) and has a hole under the barrel muzzle, was it a carbine and need a muzzle weight if open sights are to be fitted? My eyes are to old for open sights but just curious.

At the breech block end there is a pin which, to a man with a hefty hammer, gives the impression that some brute force will allow the old BSA .2222222 calibre barrel to be swapped out for a .22 or maybe even .177 calibre tube with a slightly tighter breech and a wider choice of pellet. To anyone who says getting a pellet in a .177 breech from a .22 RB will be tricky, bear in mind that my first airgun was a Crosman 766 so that wouldn't put me off.

And then there's that alloy block which sits under the end of the cylinder and is secured by an allen stud, what's that all about? Is it just a bit of support for the underlever? Does it need to be nice and tight or a rattling good fit?

There is no need to swap the barrel out in your RB2 it doesnt use the loading tap of the Airsporter range, as you will have noticed