Hammerli Sparkler stripdown

[Garvin]

There is a guy in the gallery who has stripped his Hammerli Sparkler and has some questions. Can anyone who has done this help please?

He says:" i have stripped it apart as far as I can see to go, no stuck or damaged screws rust in the sparklet chamber was just surface rust that cleaned out with an oily rag.
im going to need help with the next bit. First up is the end cap that holds the sparklet in, there is a washer on this that seems to be largely ok but has lost its give. Is this made of leather, rubber or something else? And more importantly can I get a spare or do I need to make one?
the second bit is the co2 control, this is inside and appears to move easily enough with pressure and didn’t feel stuck. The pellet probe undid easily and was only finger tight. I’m assuming that this is two parts that screw together? But hope that someone here knows and can tell me, even if the advice is leave it alone till you know it’s broken. I am assuming that there are rubber seals inside unless there is a very fine metal to metal fit.
i have also uploaded some more photos of the stripped pistol.
any help or advice gratefully received."

Thanks

[Mark D]

Danny

I couldn't upload the photo's so going to leave this here.

Congrats - you have the scarcest variant of the Sparkler dates from 1958. In the end cap is just one large seal. I have seen two types, a white / grey rubber material and a semi clear synthetic material like nylon. Generally these are ok and just cleaning will restore them.

I cant see your dismantled pictures so don't know what type of valve you have in the Sparkler. If you have the 'top hat' brass seal in it, it will need a new seal in the 'top hat' as the original will have turned to mush. The 'brass 'top hat' comes apart by unscrewing the top section from the lower probe. Easiest way to do this is put the probe section in a drill chuck and spin it, then gently grip the top section using a glove or cloth and the top will unscrew. The 2x seals for the main body are 13mm x 3mm. Just make sure you use seals that can withstand CO2 gas.
[IMG]image3 by Mark Davis, on Flickr[/IMG]
DSC01985 by Mark Davis, on Flickr

[Garvin]

Brilliant, thanks Mark.

[Sgibbar]

Hi canÂ’t manage to upload photos. The valve is different in the sparkler to the master. The whole thing is pulled out through the front. Will share photos if I can work out how to share.

http://vintageairgunsgallery.com/image/KtprU

[Garvin]

Hi canÂ’t manage to upload photos. The valve is different in the sparkler to the master. The whole thing is pulled out through the front. Will share photos if I can work out how to share.

http://vintageairgunsgallery.com/image/KtprU

https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...f03c7beee7.jpg
https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...048c3df3c1.jpg
https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...fa8228320d.jpg
https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...e52488c873.jpg
https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...a208d12fbd.jpg
https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...f17c5320b9.jpg
https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...4ca7a11296.jpg
https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...c06492cfd0.jpg
https://vintageairgunsgallery.com/im...3e73dd1ee3.jpg

[Sgibbar]

Hi Mark
When I picked it up I wasn’t sure what I was getting, when you say these are rare is that because they had a low production run or is the D, R model more normal? Do you know what numbers they go to, this one is 1183.
Hopefully you can now see the link to the photo of the valve. The operation is the same as the Master, with it bumping forward to release the co2. Having seen your photos I assume that this is screwed together from two parts with the valve cup in the middle.
Due to the sizes I think this will be pipe grips with leather to protect the metal, if it is like the rest of the pistol has been to strip this won’t need to much pressure. I will photograph the stages and put up the links to the photos as I’ve now worked out how to do this (still can’t get the photos into the post).

[Sgibbar]

Gavin you are a God among us for your ability to get phots on here 😊 I have managed to get a link running now, but thank you for putting the actual photos up.

[Mark D]

Hi Mark
When I picked it up I wasn’t sure what I was getting, when you say these are rare is that because they had a low production run or is the D, R model more normal? Do you know what numbers they go to, this one is 1183.
Hopefully you can now see the link to the photo of the valve. The operation is the same as the Master, with it bumping forward to release the co2. Having seen your photos I assume that this is screwed together from two parts with the valve cup in the middle.
Due to the sizes I think this will be pipe grips with leather to protect the metal, if it is like the rest of the pistol has been to strip this won’t need to much pressure. I will photograph the stages and put up the links to the photos as I’ve now worked out how to do this (still can’t get the photos into the post).

I have 7 Sparklers, all but 1 are RD models. A couple are a matt finish, others polished blue. My R model is serial number 1258 stamped into the base of the grip. I don't think Hammerli used a model specific sequence, as I have a RD model with the number 856. The highest serial number is 3804. In the last 10 years I have only seen 2 model Rs. Yours being the 2nd one

[Sgibbar]

I have 7 Sparklers, all but 1 are RD models. A couple are a matt finish, others polished blue. My R model is serial number 1258 stamped into the base of the grip. I don't think Hammerli used a model specific sequence, as I have a RD model with the number 856. The highest serial number is 3804. In the last 10 years I have only seen 2 model Rs. Yours being the 2nd one

Well the luck of the draw etc. This one is blued and once I had given it a polish with some light oil and fine wire wool it is looking a lot better than in the original photos. Having stripped it so far I have put it back together ahead of getting some 8g co2 which should arrive tomorrow, will gas it up and see where it leaks. The rear seal is a hard ish compound and I'm assuming that it should be compressed to seal when the cap meets the end of the capsule. Its surface is smooth but not much give. From your pictures I think there is the same cap system just inside a longer thin tube. If it leaks I will take this apart and if I do I will get some photos of the sequence. Can't wait to get it working again. I assume that these were to train for dueling courses of fire like standard pistol. My other Hammerli's are .22 sport pistols 208,215 and a208 in rapid fire .22short. started collecting these as a side line I can keep and use at home.

[Garvin]

Garvin you are a God among us for your ability to get phots on here �� I have managed to get a link running now, but thank you for putting the actual photos up.

To get pics to show up in a gallery post, select 'direct link' from the dropdown menu in 'embed codes'. For some reason the 'viewer links' (which you're posting) don't work. You can do it with a whole batch of direct links at once.

To get a pic to show up in a BBS post, copy a gallery direct link, one at a time, into the dialog box that appears when you click on the little picture symbol above, between the 'cancel hyperlink' and 'quotation' symbols.

[Mark D]

Yes, training at home. It even states on the multilingual wording on the box. If it leaks around the cap seal, let me know as I may have a spare that will work.

My 'R' is polished blue and the 'RD' above is a matt finish.

[IMG]DSC00867 by Mark Davis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Box by Mark Davis, on Flickr[/IMG]

[Sgibbar]

Ok, gas in turn down the cap and hiss from the rear, I did manage to get a few “shots” off before all 8 g left so the front seals appear to be ok.. so yes please if there is the chance of a spare that would be great. Otherwise was looking at demijohn stoppers and wondering if I could make it fit?

[draitzer]

For the rear cap seal on various Hämmerli's I've just used suitable size O-rings from my box-o-stuff and they worked fine.

Don R.

[Sgibbar]

For the rear cap seal on various Hämmerli's I've just used suitable size O-rings from my box-o-stuff and they worked fine.

Don R.

Hi Don, these are a bit special, it's a solid bit of rubber about 15mm long the diameter of the end cap with a 9mm hole up the middle, the idea is that it provides a good enough seal as you screw it in and then it bulges out to seal as the end cap pushes the sparkler up against its shoulder giving the final seal. Fortunately a member has come up trump's with an old stock item, otherwise was looking at something starting with a demijohn bung as a similar material. Will post photos of the replacement.

[Sgibbar]

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Dxy...rdyJ_w#Tolland
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0OhK...ts5xuA#Tolland
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0R3l...n-EiIw#Tolland
Job done no more leaks