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Thread: Lockdown fever

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccdjg View Post
    Many thanks for the info'. I have never come across the use of hydrogen peroxide before and it's not mentioned in Angier's bible of bluing, so I will give it a try. Also your comment about age hardening was interesting.

    ATB
    John
    Well that's 10 out of 10 from me! please give us your recipe / formula? & instructions ,cheer's Al.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by cringe View Post
    Well that's 10 out of 10 from me! please give us your recipe / formula? & instructions ,cheer's Al.
    Off of the net:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmv58Z3RZ9c

    I assessed the likelihood of hydrogen embrittlement, but to be honest, the main load bearing parts (piston latch, trigger mechanism) are not blued and the rest is under minimal load and force, so I've accepted that the rest is going to be perfectly safe (I probably wouldn't use this for pcp cylinders though).

    For the scholars amongst us, this is taken directly from the HSE guidance:

    4 The phenomenon known as hydrogen cracking requires both a corrosive environment and tensile stresses to be present.
    5 Cracking can occur in two ways:
    ■■ The hydrogen generated at the surface of a tensile-loaded, high-strength steel can enter the material lattice and embrittle the steel, increasing its susceptibility to failure by dynamic loading (shock loading). This is known as hydrogen embrittlement (HE).
    ■■ The hydrogen can migrate and congregate in tensile-stressed regions and cause cracks to grow progressively. This is sometimes referred to as hydrogenassisted cracking (HAC).

  3. #18
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Quote Originally Posted by CapitalBee View Post
    Off of the net:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmv58Z3RZ9c

    I assessed the likelihood of hydrogen embrittlement, but to be honest, the main load bearing parts (piston latch, trigger mechanism) are not blued and the rest is under minimal load and force, so I've accepted that the rest is going to be perfectly safe (I probably wouldn't use this for pcp cylinders though).

    For the scholars amongst us, this is taken directly from the HSE guidance:

    4 The phenomenon known as hydrogen cracking requires both a corrosive environment and tensile stresses to be present.
    5 Cracking can occur in two ways:
    ■■ The hydrogen generated at the surface of a tensile-loaded, high-strength steel can enter the material lattice and embrittle the steel, increasing its susceptibility to failure by dynamic loading (shock loading). This is known as hydrogen embrittlement (HE).
    ■■ The hydrogen can migrate and congregate in tensile-stressed regions and cause cracks to grow progressively. This is sometimes referred to as hydrogenassisted cracking (HAC).
    Excellent video and well worth trying out. The only thing against the video was the demonstration of how to make the vice blocks used for the blung trial. The professionalism, precision equipment, mechanical hacksaws, milling machines etc. made me feel very inferior with just my 70 year old Myford lathe, and almost disillusioned me from future projects!

    As a chemist, I can reassure you that hydrogen embrittlement is not going to be a problem with the bluing process itself. One thing you can be sure of, is that if you are using hydrogen peroxide there is not going to be any trace of hydrogen around to give rise to this problem. Oxygen yes, hydrogen no. You will get bit of hydrogen at the pickling stage of course, but this is minimal and in my experience (with rust bluing and hot salt bluing) it doesn't make much difference if you leave it out altogether, as long as your degreasing protocol is good.

  4. #19
    micky2 is offline The collector formerly known as micky
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    Quote Originally Posted by CapitalBee View Post
    I used hydrogen peroxide and salt. I'd tried a few before, but took extra care with this one to card it between each cycle. I took 7 passes to get this finish, about 2 hrs in total with the last 20 mins boiling the parts for the last time. The only thing I'll do now is leave it for a few days to allow the finish to age harden. Not allowing this time cost me some unsightly marks on the finish when I did my first full rifle, an Original mod 27.
    It's amazing the finish you have got on it. and it only took you 2 hours wow.

  5. #20
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    got to try that blueing process.. amazing...

    BTW when you age harden, I presume that is before oiling ?
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    got to try that blueing process.. amazing...

    BTW when you age harden, I presume that is before oiling ?
    Just make sure the wind is not blowing in my direction neighbour!

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    got to try that blueing process.. amazing...

    BTW when you age harden, I presume that is before oiling ?
    John, when I said age hardening, I soaked the actions in oil immediately after the last prolonged boil. What I did on the first full action I tried was within the day, rebuilt it and the spring compressor left two noticeable linear marks along the cylinder. After a couple of days the finish appeared far more durable, so just made a quick note to self. This reblue, I took far more care with the carding process inbetween cycles, with the 4 pieces to be done I had a rotation between carding, bluing solution application, rust time and boiling and kept everything on the go for about two hours, with all four pieces together for a final long boil. I had to keep topping up the boiling water and some scum generates on the water surface, but I removed that with kitchen towel drawn over the surface of the water. TBH, the action was in a pretty gash condition, with someone having rubbed off a lot of the bluing on the main cylinder and breech, but I just started the bluing in the state they were in in the pictures, so pretty pleased with the result.
    I've swapped the spring over for a better fitting i/d and assembled the action back together yesterday evening. A new leather breech seal has been made and fitted and the piston seal was in pretty good nick and responded well to a soak in neatsfoot oil. All being well, it'll be fully back together tonight and I'll take a final photo.

    All I need now is some open sights; if anyone could help, I'd be grateful.

  8. #23
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    thanks, understood now...


    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Just make sure the wind is not blowing in my direction neighbour!
    Bob, you can't leave your house, so just stay indoors with the windows locked
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  9. #24
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    Brilliant read. Thanks for sharing. Just spent ten days rust bluing with brick cleaner fumes. Done it before but this time quite disappointed.
    Going to try this next. On a plus side hair dressers will have Hydrogen Peroxide lying idle methinks.

  10. #25
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    That’s looking really really good.

    Suspect the “51” is a date stamp, not a serial?

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
    That’s looking really really good.

    Suspect the “51” is a date stamp, not a serial?
    Not sure tbh. The comparable example on VAGF was 53, but had a few noticeable differences, such as crimping of the breech jaws in the cylinder and articulated cocking arm ; too big a difference for a serial number difference of two, but a plausible 2 year difference.
    Last edited by CapitalBee; 29-04-2020 at 10:50 AM.

  12. #27
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    regarding the rear sight.

    could one like I had on my Anschutz 1450 fit ?

    it has a dovetail mounting .







    windage adjustment is done by tapping it left to right but I suspect you knew that .



    I don't have it now as I gave it way with the foresight when I sold it on here .

    post here with that shows who I gave mine to. He may be able to give the sizes of the dovetail for you if it may be what your looking for.

    this is one on eblag just now item number 113728772198 .

  13. #28
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    Thanks for sharing the info' on the rear sight. TBH, the Ani' sight seems so well engineered, I think it would stand out like a sore thumb. Is saw an Original Mod 22 rear sight on t'bay but despite my asking for dovetail dims the guy didn't even bother responding, so I left it. I may just wait for Protek to re-open as they have a couple of likely candidates for replacements.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by CapitalBee View Post
    Off of the net:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmv58Z3RZ9c

    I assessed the likelihood of hydrogen embrittlement, but to be honest, the main load bearing parts (piston latch, trigger mechanism) are not blued and the rest is under minimal load and force, so I've accepted that the rest is going to be perfectly safe (I probably wouldn't use this for pcp cylinders though).

    For the scholars amongst us, this is taken directly from the HSE guidance:

    4 The phenomenon known as hydrogen cracking requires both a corrosive environment and tensile stresses to be present.
    5 Cracking can occur in two ways:
    ■■ The hydrogen generated at the surface of a tensile-loaded, high-strength steel can enter the material lattice and embrittle the steel, increasing its susceptibility to failure by dynamic loading (shock loading). This is known as hydrogen embrittlement (HE).
    ■■ The hydrogen can migrate and congregate in tensile-stressed regions and cause cracks to grow progressively. This is sometimes referred to as hydrogenassisted cracking (HAC).


    Oh I like that! As someone else has already said, messing around for hours fuming with brick acid takes up a good day just waiting for rust to form, that salt and peroxide mix really does the business.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by CapitalBee View Post
    Thanks for sharing the info' on the rear sight. TBH, the Ani' sight seems so well engineered, I think it would stand out like a sore thumb. Is saw an Original Mod 22 rear sight on t'bay but despite my asking for dovetail dims the guy didn't even bother responding, so I left it. I may just wait for Protek to re-open as they have a couple of likely candidates for replacements.
    Your welcome . i hope you find one that suits the rifle more .

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