Registered User
I have an antique percussion barrel that I'm thinking of re browning, I've used Gunguard Slow Brown for years and still have a part bottle that may not be quite enough to do the full job (it's a long barrel).
I've always had satisfactory results with this product but thought it worthwhile asking what other people are using these days, before placing an order..
One of the Blackhand Gang
I have never found any blueing or browning chemical hard wearing so I decided to rebrown my barrel, before it was put on my FAC.
It is a long job, it took me about three months, but I could have done it quicker if I had kept it sealed in a tube between applications instead of letting it dry out in between.
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I used the following cold method:-
BROWNING BARREL & OTHER PARTS.
Iron and steel parts such as the barrel, lock, trigger and screws should be browned to be authentic. This is accomplished by causing a controlled rusting to take place on these parts.
The metal should be polished sufficiently to remove rust, pits and tool marks, however a high polish is neither necessary nor desired in our case. Fine wet or dry paper of about 400 grade will do an adequate job. Be careful not to round off any corners which should remain sharp. The barrel should be sanded lengthwise with the paper wrapped around a block of wood to prevent rounding of octagonal ridges.
The formula consists of dissolving about ½ teaspoon Sal Ammoniac, (Ammonium Chloride), and a piece of Copper Sulphate crystal about 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/8” in size in a pint of water.
The parts should be thoroughly degreased by washing with soap and water, followed by a bath of household Oakite or Borax.
COLD RUST METHOD.
Rub the solution on the metal with a clean rag being careful to thoroughly wet all parts to be browned but leave the surface only damp. Puddles or droplets tend to make streaks or spots. Leave the work in a damp place for about 6-8 hours until a coat of rust develops. In dry climate it will help if the work is placed in a box covered with damp rags. The rags must not touch the work. After the surface has rusted over, brush the work off with a fine steel wire brush which has been degreased. Under the loose rust will appear a coat of brown. Repeated applications will darken the finish. The work should be kept at about 75F or higher during the application of the rusting process.
BOILING METHOD.
Bring solution to the boil in an enamelled or Pyrex dish. Dip the work on a wire or string in the solution for 45 seconds. Remove and shake or blow off the excess solution and evaporate dry over the fire, without over heating the metal. Allow work to rust sufficiently to produce a solid coat of rust and then remove rust. One application generally gives a good brown. Repeated applications or leaving in the boiling solution longer tends towards a reddish-purple, then blue and black. This method is very good for locks, screws. Etc.
HEAT METHOD.
Heat the work until it will almost cause water to sizzle-about as hot as a pressing iron for clothes.
Dampen a small pad of rag in the solution and rub on the work, allowing it to evaporate off rapidly. Work small areas and notice that the brown will become apparent after about 10 passes.
Continue over the work until the desired finish is obtained. This method does not require the rusting period, although the finish seems to darken and its resistance to wear is improved by allowing it to age for 24 hours before handling. If it rust some during this period, the rust can be removed as described above. It can be oiled immediately after obtaining the desired colour without affecting the finish, which will reduce after-rust. After obtaining the desired colour with any of the three methods, the work should be washed with soap and water to stop after-rusting.
Registered User
I've tried a fair few methods and always thought the cold was best for an even controlled finish.
I have a copy of Firearm Blueing & Browning by R. Angier, bought in the 1970's but never got round to trying any of his more advanced mixes. A hard wearing finish is not my first priority as I no longer have any interest in shooting the older stuff, though I did regularly, many years since, when there was no need to list guns on a shotgun certificate but we did have to ask for a letter of permission from the firearms department, to purchase the black powder. I'll give some thoughts to your mix. Thanks.
Mel.
One of the Blackhand Gang
I forgot to say, remember to block up the nipple, oil the barrel and block up the muzzle before doing it if you decide to give it a try.Originally Posted by mel h
Atb
Optimisic Pessimist Fella
Like most airgunners i tried cold blue solutions which gave poor results, streaky non durable coating etc. I also tried birchwood casey plum brown stuff, this gave an interesting colour on a plai iron barrel but i suspect it was no more durable than the cold blue stuff.
I bought Angiers book & it has loads of good info though obviously written aeons ago so much is out of date.
One day at Bisley arms fair i bought some real browing solution from Blackleys, It gave proper real results on an antique damascus pistol barrel.
It also gave good results used as a blue the only difference being that i boiled it after each pass, the boiling converts the ferrous oxide to black ferric chloride. The main reason for any problems is poor degreasing.
A bottle will last you years, its highly poisonous as its got mercuric chloride in it, dont use it anywhere near anything you dont want to go rusty!
Link here, https://www.blackleyandson.com/acata...Metals-p1.html,
Ignore the birchwood casey snake oil crap, scroll down to gunguard slow brown.
You Sir,
Has got it spot on as far as I'm concerned. If you want to go the best diy route. One can improve things when one wishes.
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