Browning solution

[mel h]

I've tried a fair few methods and always thought the cold was best for an even controlled finish.
I have a copy of Firearm Blueing & Browning by R. Angier, bought in the 1970's but never got round to trying any of his more advanced mixes. A hard wearing finish is not my first priority as I no longer have any interest in shooting the older stuff, though I did regularly, many years since, when there was no need to list guns on a shotgun certificate but we did have to ask for a letter of permission from the firearms department, to purchase the black powder. I'll give some thoughts to your mix. Thanks.
Mel.

[enfield2band]

I've tried a fair few methods and always thought the cold was best for an even controlled finish.
I have a copy of Firearm Blueing & Browning by R. Angier, bought in the 1970's but never got round to trying any of his more advanced mixes. A hard wearing finish is not my first priority as I no longer have any interest in shooting the older stuff, though I did regularly, many years since, when there was no need to list guns on a shotgun certificate but we did have to ask for a letter of permission from the firearms department, to purchase the black powder. I'll give some thoughts to your mix. Thanks.
Mel.

I forgot to say, remember to block up the nipple, oil the barrel and block up the muzzle before doing it if you decide to give it a try.

Atb

[keith66]

Like most airgunners i tried cold blue solutions which gave poor results, streaky non durable coating etc. I also tried birchwood casey plum brown stuff, this gave an interesting colour on a plai iron barrel but i suspect it was no more durable than the cold blue stuff.
I bought Angiers book & it has loads of good info though obviously written aeons ago so much is out of date.
One day at Bisley arms fair i bought some real browing solution from Blackleys, It gave proper real results on an antique damascus pistol barrel.
It also gave good results used as a blue the only difference being that i boiled it after each pass, the boiling converts the ferrous oxide to black ferric chloride. The main reason for any problems is poor degreasing.
A bottle will last you years, its highly poisonous as its got mercuric chloride in it, dont use it anywhere near anything you dont want to go rusty!
Link here, https://www.blackleyandson.com/acata...Metals-p1.html,
Ignore the birchwood casey snake oil crap, scroll down to gunguard slow brown.

[arnie2b]

Like most airgunners i tried cold blue solutions which gave poor results, streaky non durable coating etc. I also tried birchwood casey plum brown stuff, this gave an interesting colour on a plai iron barrel but i suspect it was no more durable than the cold blue stuff.
I bought Angiers book & it has loads of good info though obviously written aeons ago so much is out of date.
One day at Bisley arms fair i bought some real browing solution from Blackleys, It gave proper real results on an antique damascus pistol barrel.
It also gave good results used as a blue the only difference being that i boiled it after each pass, the boiling converts the ferrous oxide to black ferric chloride. The main reason for any problems is poor degreasing.
A bottle will last you years, its highly poisonous as its got mercuric chloride in it, dont use it anywhere near anything you dont want to go rusty!
Link here, https://www.blackleyandson.com/acata...Metals-p1.html,
Ignore the birchwood casey snake oil crap, scroll down to gunguard slow brown.

You Sir,
Has got it spot on as far as I'm concerned. If you want to go the best diy route. One can improve things when one wishes.

[keith66]

Thanks, the slow brown solution will give the same results as used when the gun was built, to brown or blue a barrel will take anywhere from 3 to 6 passes, maybe more depending on the composition of the steel or iron, each pass creates a layer of loose rust that has to be removed or carded off, a soft brass wire brush or grey scotchbrite pad, more solution then hang up to rust again,usually overnight is good enough then repeat until the desired depth of colour is acheived. Proper degreasing is the absolute key!
I am surprised this stuff is still available really as its proper poisonous, gloves goggles & mask definately a must!

[enfield2band]

Thanks, the slow brown solution will give the same results as used when the gun was built, to brown or blue a barrel will take anywhere from 3 to 6 passes, maybe more depending on the composition of the steel or iron, each pass creates a layer of loose rust that has to be removed or carded off, a soft brass wire brush or grey scotchbrite pad, more solution then hang up to rust again,usually overnight is good enough then repeat until the desired depth of colour is acheived. Proper degreasing is the absolute key!
I am surprised this stuff is still available really as its proper poisonous, gloves goggles & mask definately a must!

It sounds like the solution is the same as Ammonium Chloride and Copper Sulphate that is used in the method mentioned. The procedure also sounds the same.
I have tried chemical browning agents in the past and they don't cause rusting. They stain the metal and each coat darkens it a bit more, but it is not hard wearing.

[keith66]

Yes, in Angiers book there are many recipies, Ammonium Chloride, Mercuric Chloride, Ferric chloride are all common ingredients, they promote rusting with a vengeance, Other ingredients can & have been used. Its the old slow rusting process. Not worth making your own as some of the chemicals will be hard to obtain. Ferric chloride was often used in schools for PCB etching, We had a big tub of the granules where i used to work, should have had some!

[mel h]

Thanks for the input everyone, I've been happy using Gunguard Slow Brown, I've always found that a decent finish can be achieved in a week or so. I was just wondering if any other products had appeared in the years since I first started. It looks as though I'll be placing an order for a new bottle soon.
Mel.