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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Chester
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    5,486
    As with the scorpion pistol,stand the action upright and heat the cylinder with a hot air gun.
    As smoke starts to appear the piston and head will usually drop out of the back end.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Narberth
    Posts
    768
    Hi Weasle,

    Before unscrewing the trigger block, I make a small scribe mark cylinder to block position (on the underside where it is not seen!). Yes, the block can be difficult to unscrew, but, a bit of heat on the cylinder applied quickly before the alloy has a chance to expand somewhat has worked for me. The heat does not damage the bluing. A thin walled socket is needed to get onto that hex nut to adjust alignment. Fortunately mine have gone back into position without excessive tightening force. For one of them, it got far too tight for aligning, I cheated, carefully filing square, a smidgen off the end of the cylinder!!! I'm talking of two or three passes with a fine wide flat file. I copper coat the threads on re-assembly.

    All the best to all......
    Last edited by SRV1; 16-06-2020 at 12:31 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    pembury
    Posts
    745
    Quote Originally Posted by SRV1 View Post
    Hi Weasle,

    Before unscrewing the trigger block, I make a small scribe mark cylinder to block position (on the underside where it is not seen!). Yes, the block can be difficult to unscrew, but, a bit of heat on the cylinder applied quickly before the alloy has a chance to expand somewhat has worked for me. The heat does not damage the bluing. A thin walled socket is needed to get onto that hex nut to adjust alignment. Fortunately mine have gone back into position without excessive tightening force. For one of them, it got far too tight for aligning, I cheated, carefully filing square, a smidgen off the end of the cylinder!!! I'm talking of two or three passes with a fine wide flat file. I copper coat the threads on re-assembly.

    All the best to all......
    Great tip...many thanks.

    Steve

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    ashby de la zouch
    Posts
    282
    could someone in the know with mercury's answer this for me not trying to hijack the thread im in the process of servicing my mk2 mercury should the section that's fitted to the under side of the cylinder has a single screw with split washer part no BK003 in the mercury diagram. my question is should this part be a tight fit to the cylinder or a loose fit as the one on my rifle is loose like others have said in this thread i doubt mine rifle has ever been serviced.its a mk11 in 177. thanks in advance. SSF

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Narberth
    Posts
    768
    Quote Originally Posted by supersportfive View Post
    could someone in the know with mercury's answer this for me not trying to hijack the thread im in the process of servicing my mk2 mercury should the section that's fitted to the under side of the cylinder has a single screw with split washer part no BK003 in the mercury diagram. my question is should this part be a tight fit to the cylinder or a loose fit as the one on my rifle is loose like others have said in this thread i doubt mine rifle has ever been serviced.its a mk11 in 177. thanks in advance. SSF
    Hi, with the stock and action separated, tighten the screw such that the bracket can be moved with a a little pressure. Put action in stock with just the long rear screw nipped up, have a look through the stock screw holes to check alignment. If not, use a pin punch or similar to move the bracket into alignment through the stock hole. Remove action, fully tighten bracket screw and reassemble. If the screw is not tight, through recoil, it will probably drop out, or if loose, the accuracy will suffer as the action will be jumping round with each shot.

    All the best
    Last edited by SRV1; 17-06-2020 at 09:39 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    ashby de la zouch
    Posts
    282
    Quote Originally Posted by SRV1 View Post
    Hi, with the stock and action separated, tighten the screw such that the bracket can be moved with a a little pressure. Put action in stock with just the long rear screw nipped up, have a look through the stock screw holes to check alignment. If not, use a pin punch or similar to move the bracket into alignment through the stock hole. Remove action, fully tighten bracket screw and reassemble. If the screw is not tight, through recoil, it will probably drop out, or if loose, the accuracy will suffer as the action will be jumping round with each shot.

    All the best
    this is great advice SRV1 many thanks for taking the time to reply and offer a solution i'll put this into practice. SSF

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    pembury
    Posts
    745

    Mercury Spring...Titan 2

    Gents.
    I've finally got to the point of assembly and spring replacement. I've got a couple of Titan 2 springs...which I believe are the ones to use...although longer than the originals....I'm not surprised due to the use they have had...do you believe these need cutting and then trial and error by checking over my Skan...or do Mercury's never make 12 fpe due to their design?🤣
    Many thanks in advance. 👍

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