BSA Mercury

[Weasle]

I've done a few Mercurys with stuck pistons and managed to get them all out by placing a round bar that fits into the cocking slot in the piston at right angles and hammerer them out . You must put the edge of the rifle cylinder against something that won't damage it of course .if I remember rightly you can knock it out far enough to expose the top of the piston in the slot so you can then knock it out from there . It's been quite a few years since I've done one good luck

Many thanks Ill give that method a bash- the other one was tight as well...just not a stuck as this one...

Cheers Steve

[piggy589]

As with the scorpion pistol,stand the action upright and heat the cylinder with a hot air gun.
As smoke starts to appear the piston and head will usually drop out of the back end.

[SRV1]

Hi Weasle,

Before unscrewing the trigger block, I make a small scribe mark cylinder to block position (on the underside where it is not seen!). Yes, the block can be difficult to unscrew, but, a bit of heat on the cylinder applied quickly before the alloy has a chance to expand somewhat has worked for me. The heat does not damage the bluing. A thin walled socket is needed to get onto that hex nut to adjust alignment. Fortunately mine have gone back into position without excessive tightening force. For one of them, it got far too tight for aligning, I cheated, carefully filing square, a smidgen off the end of the cylinder!!! I'm talking of two or three passes with a fine wide flat file. I copper coat the threads on re-assembly.

All the best to all......

[Weasle]

Hi Weasle,

Before unscrewing the trigger block, I make a small scribe mark cylinder to block position (on the underside where it is not seen!). Yes, the block can be difficult to unscrew, but, a bit of heat on the cylinder applied quickly before the alloy has a chance to expand somewhat has worked for me. The heat does not damage the bluing. A thin walled socket is needed to get onto that hex nut to adjust alignment. Fortunately mine have gone back into position without excessive tightening force. For one of them, it got far too tight for aligning, I cheated, carefully filing square, a smidgen off the end of the cylinder!!! I'm talking of two or three passes with a fine wide flat file. I copper coat the threads on re-assembly.

All the best to all......

Great tip...many thanks.

Steve

[supersportfive]

could someone in the know with mercury's answer this for me not trying to hijack the thread im in the process of servicing my mk2 mercury should the section that's fitted to the under side of the cylinder has a single screw with split washer part no BK003 in the mercury diagram. my question is should this part be a tight fit to the cylinder or a loose fit as the one on my rifle is loose like others have said in this thread i doubt mine rifle has ever been serviced.its a mk11 in 177. thanks in advance. SSF

[SRV1]

could someone in the know with mercury's answer this for me not trying to hijack the thread im in the process of servicing my mk2 mercury should the section that's fitted to the under side of the cylinder has a single screw with split washer part no BK003 in the mercury diagram. my question is should this part be a tight fit to the cylinder or a loose fit as the one on my rifle is loose like others have said in this thread i doubt mine rifle has ever been serviced.its a mk11 in 177. thanks in advance. SSF

Hi, with the stock and action separated, tighten the screw such that the bracket can be moved with a a little pressure. Put action in stock with just the long rear screw nipped up, have a look through the stock screw holes to check alignment. If not, use a pin punch or similar to move the bracket into alignment through the stock hole. Remove action, fully tighten bracket screw and reassemble. If the screw is not tight, through recoil, it will probably drop out, or if loose, the accuracy will suffer as the action will be jumping round with each shot.

All the best

[supersportfive]

Hi, with the stock and action separated, tighten the screw such that the bracket can be moved with a a little pressure. Put action in stock with just the long rear screw nipped up, have a look through the stock screw holes to check alignment. If not, use a pin punch or similar to move the bracket into alignment through the stock hole. Remove action, fully tighten bracket screw and reassemble. If the screw is not tight, through recoil, it will probably drop out, or if loose, the accuracy will suffer as the action will be jumping round with each shot.

All the best

this is great advice SRV1 many thanks for taking the time to reply and offer a solution i'll put this into practice. SSF