Thanks all. I will hunt that book down and take a look at the lee stuff. A "beginners set" appeals for the obvious reasons, but I'll try and hold off any decisions until I've done a few loads through other peoples equipment
Thanks all. I will hunt that book down and take a look at the lee stuff. A "beginners set" appeals for the obvious reasons, but I'll try and hold off any decisions until I've done a few loads through other peoples equipment
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I bought a Lyman Turret press over 40 years ago & it's still going strong and is still my main "go-to" press. I leave it set up for .223 & .308. ( I have since acquired a further two presses, a Lee Loadmaster & a Lee Progressive 1000 turret which I only use for .357mag nowadays.) The Lee Loadmaster is actually a beast of a machine that will handle most cartridges you'll ever want to reload.
We've also got a Lee Classic Turret press at the club; which is more than adequate.
Pistol & Rifle Shooting in the Highlands with Strathpeffer Rifle & Pistol Club. <StrathRPC at yahoo.com> or google it.
No longer Pumpin Oil but still Passin Gas!
If you are only going to load pistol rounds then I would suggest starting with a lee turret press and once confident then to one of their progressive ones (or Dillon).
Or get a Dillon and use it initially as a manual progressive (slower but safer to start with)
You’ll probably find that you shoot one cal more than others (9mm?) and the dies will fit both and most likely end up on the progressive.
If you decide to start rifle reloading then you are probably looking at a single stage press - slower but safer as if a rifle round goes wrong it’s a lot more dangerous’’
Hand loading for competition by Glen Zediker is the book I recommend on reloading - more for rifle cartridges but explains all the basics and equipment relevant to all.
ATB
James
If Reloading 9mmP maybe stick to powders like Red Dot or Unique, they will just about fill the case easily, virtually impossible to double charge.
Pistol & Rifle Shooting in the Highlands with Strathpeffer Rifle & Pistol Club. <StrathRPC at yahoo.com> or google it.
No longer Pumpin Oil but still Passin Gas!
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
I preferred .45s as the recoil was less snappy than 9mm (I had a S&W 645 which was huge).
They are really easy to reload.
The best advice I believe (and others may well disagree) about starting reloading and buying new kit is don’t bother with cheap stuff to start out, just buy good stuff in the first place. If you’re confident it’s something you’ll be doing long term then it makes sense. Why buy twice?
Lee do make some good stuff, but they make some pretty nasty stuff too which wouldn’t be ideal for a new reloader to try to learn on.
Cheers
Greg
The Lee Progressive will not try drop powder if there is no case in the stage and I believe the newer ones also will not feed a primer either so it is entirely possible to operate it by feeding only one case at a time and thus allowing you to focus completely on each stage until you feel you have it mastered.
WRT the Lee Progressive press itself, it is certainly excellent value for money but IME they all need a bit of tinkering to get them working well. You certainly have the tinkering skills (not everyone does) so it's just a matter of carefully attending to each area one at a time. This might be dangerously unconventional but take some time to CAREFULLY RTFM to understand it all and do not skip over bits which might seem unimportant or unclear. As it the norm with 'merkin manuals, it is not written very well and easy to miss something important.
If you are going for multiple different cartridges then get extra die plates so you can avoid the tedious die set up process each time you want to change cartridges, just swap the entire die plate, and if necessary the shell holder, and crack on.
I think that there is now a four stage version so that the bullet seating and crimping stages are separate - this is a godsend - I found that with the combined seat/crimp die as used on the three stage version there is a tendency for it to shave bits of lead off the bullet as the crimp compresses while the bullet is still seating.
I would also avoid the standard powder dispenser plates - they obviously only have discrete sizes and it seemed to me that the ideal loads were always somewhere in between, particularly if you want light target loads. I believe it is possible to mount a Lee Perfect measure instead and again with a bit of fettling it works very well.
True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
TANSTAAFL
Wonderful info, thanks! The Lee Classic Turret is looking favourite at the moment, Mrs Bum is keen to try it as well and wants a .45 cos the bullets are cute and tubby. Just like me
I will need a tumbler, is there a preferred one, or are they all much of a muchness?
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The vibratory ones are OK but imho the "rock" tumblers are better, especially if you get into wet tumbling. Small ones can be had for less than £100; I would makes sure it's got a capacity of at least 3lbs or 1.5kg. (ok for a few pistol cases) but like other things in life, bigger is better. I have a big one & a small one, just like my cars, one's a 1.4litre and another is 3.9litres. "You can't beat Cubes!"
Pistol & Rifle Shooting in the Highlands with Strathpeffer Rifle & Pistol Club. <StrathRPC at yahoo.com> or google it.
No longer Pumpin Oil but still Passin Gas!
I have never used a tumbler and I don't plan to either. There are several reasons for this:
a) If, like me you like the shiny nickel plated cases a tumbler will rub through the nickel in no time and they then look horrible
b) If you tumble empty cases you then have to clean out the media
c) Tumbling does not clean primer pockets very well
I use an ultrasonic cleaner on my cases - no media residue and primer pockets are clean too. Don't buy a shooter's ultrasonic cleaner - they are silly money. Look on the site which must not be named - I think mine is a 1L 50 W unit and it will take 100 .38 spl cases loose or a brick of 50 (I use the plastic cartridge holder found in many branded boxed of 50). Add the cleaning fluid of your choice. I use boiled water with a dash of citric acid and a drop of detergent will work fine. If you have hard water in your area then a single drop of dishwasher finisher will prevent water marks. 10 minutes in the bath and set them out to dry - you can clean 300 cases in an hour in batches of 50 then overnight to dry or cook them up in the oven at 120C for 20 minutes. That said for many years I did not clean cases at all and had no problems, but they don't look so good as nice shiny ones. WARNING: do not let your cases sit in the bath after it has finished - a lot of the very fine muck will settle out on to the cases and if that dries it is really difficult to get it off again.
True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
TANSTAAFL