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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Newport
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    6

    Original 35

    Hello All,
    I'm new to the forum and to air guns, other than having a very poor Diana SP50 back in the day.
    After rebuilding a MK4 Meteor for a friend (bags of power but still has a very heavy trigger) I've had my interest well and truly tweaked and I've taken the plunge and bought an Original 35 0.177" from a dealer, which I should get my hands on in the next day or two.
    I would be grateful for any opinions and advice.
    Apparently the rifle has was used for bell target shooting and is putting out just below 7lbs/ft. I'm not hungry for power but will be servicing the gun and fitting a new spring, piston and breach seal. I will use a standard spring, but is it worth fitting a PTFE piston seal or should I stick with leather (the gun is 1978 and I'm assuming it's a leather seal and guessing it may need replacing)? I'm guessing the power should then be around 8-10lb/ft? Any advice on pellet choice would also be gratefully received.
    Now bearing in mind I have only seen a few blurry pictures of the gun and had a brief discussion with the dealer I understand the stock has a few dents and marks etc., commensurate with its age. The question is, if it's bad should I refinish the stock or give it a clean and a wax and use as is? Will this sort of refinishing add or detract to the appeal of the gun?
    Thanks in advance for your advice,
    Cheers,
    Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Glenrothes
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    1,352
    Welcome to the forum, Mark. The Original 35 is an excellent air rifle. If the guy was serious about bell target shooting the 35 may well have been de-rated intentionally. I have seen .177's as high as 11fpe but 9-10 is more typical of one in good health. My .177 35 is actually shooting at 7 and feels nice at that level. They handle brilliantly and are generally a very well mannered air rifle. Both of mine run leather and I would stick with that, rather than convert to any type of synthetic alternative. Try RWS Hobby and Meisterkugeln 7.0grain pellets to begin with.
    If you like it, it will be worth attending to any cosmetics at a later date. The Birchwood Casey refinishing kit is a good product for the stock.

    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....t-Break-barrel

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Newport
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by Drew451 View Post
    Welcome to the forum, Mark. The Original 35 is an excellent air rifle. If the guy was serious about bell target shooting the 35 may well have been de-rated intentionally. I have seen .177's as high as 11fpe but 9-10 is more typical of one in good health. My .177 35 is actually shooting at 7 and feels nice at that level. They handle brilliantly and are generally a very well mannered air rifle. Both of mine run leather and I would stick with that, rather than convert to any type of synthetic alternative. Try RWS Hobby and Meisterkugeln 7.0grain pellets to begin with.
    If you like it, it will be worth attending to any cosmetics at a later date. The Birchwood Casey refinishing kit is a good product for the stock.

    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....t-Break-barrel
    Thanks for the help Drew, it's good to hear.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    durham
    Posts
    3,460

    Original 35

    Quote Originally Posted by Drew451 View Post
    Welcome to the forum, Mark. The Original 35 is an excellent air rifle. If the guy was serious about bell target shooting the 35 may well have been de-rated intentionally. I have seen .177's as high as 11fpe but 9-10 is more typical of one in good health. My .177 35 is actually shooting at 7 and feels nice at that level. They handle brilliantly and are generally a very well mannered air rifle. Both of mine run leather and I would stick with that, rather than convert to any type of synthetic alternative. Try RWS Hobby and Meisterkugeln 7.0grain pellets to begin with.
    If you like it, it will be worth attending to any cosmetics at a later date. The Birchwood Casey refinishing kit is a good product for the stock.

    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....t-Break-barrel
    If the piston seal isnt damaged i'd give it a soak in a plastic bag overnight with hempseed oil or neatsfoot oil, the new leather seal i bought from chambers was rubbish, rock hard & didnt seal properly even after soaking, doubt it was even real leather tbh.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    sheffield
    Posts
    6,695

    Thumbs up

    I wouldn't recommend taking a 35 apart as they have a trigger that is something of a b**ch to rebuild!!

    I've a couple of 35's although the darker one is badged 'Gecado', A tradename for the Original guns that were destined for the U.S., Australia and South Africa!





    The Original 35..




    By the way, The early ones don't have a scope rail- Just open sights...


    John
    for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
    www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Western Norway
    Posts
    325
    I've got a 1975 35, pics and info:

    https://barx.org/airguns/?id=diana_35

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Bruton
    Posts
    6,592
    Agree on the piston seal. Keep it leather. First step is to try refurbishing the original (if needed).

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Glenrothes
    Posts
    1,352
    Quote Originally Posted by vestlenning View Post
    I've got a 1975 35, pics and info:

    https://barx.org/airguns/?id=diana_35
    Fine looking example. Nice website with some nice, interesting guns. Good work.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Pontypridd South Wales uk
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    1,848
    Quote Originally Posted by vestlenning View Post
    I've got a 1975 35, pics and info:

    https://barx.org/airguns/?id=diana_35
    Hiya vestlenning.
    That looks a fine looking gun. The stock refinish has been accomplished to a lovely finish.
    I see you make reference to converting the leather seal to synthetic. Can I ask what seal you used for this and did you see any benefit?
    Thanks
    Dave

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Newport
    Posts
    6

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by johnbaz View Post
    I wouldn't recommend taking a 35 apart as they have a trigger that is something of a b**ch to rebuild!!

    I've a couple of 35's although the darker one is badged 'Gecado', A tradename for the Original guns that were destined for the U.S., Australia and South Africa!





    The Original 35..




    By the way, The early ones don't have a scope rail- Just open sights...


    John
    Lovely guns John, Have you refinished them? A great collection on your link as well.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    sheffield
    Posts
    6,695

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by in the shed View Post
    Lovely guns John, Have you refinished them? A great collection on your link as well.


    Hi There

    The light coloured Original is still 'Original', As far as I know it's never been refinished..

    The darker stocked Gecado was one of the last rifles I bought, The lad I got it from said the stock had been refinished at Custom stocks of Sheffield..


    John
    for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
    www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Newport
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by in the shed View Post
    I've taken the plunge and bought an Original 35 0.177" from a dealer, which I should get my hands on in the next day or two.
    The comments and suggestions to my post have been spot on. I picked the gun up yesterday. I'm very pleased with it. Externally it's a bit tired with worn bluing and scratches etc. on the stock. It looks a like it has had a recent service and shoots really well. I'm not an experienced air-gunner but to me the trigger is as good as a HW100 I've shot on a few occasions.
    I think for the next few weeks I'm going to shoot it as much as possible to get a real feel for the gun and then think about the best way forward with refinishing the stock and the bluing. Is cold bluing worth while, I've seen so many mixed feelings on it? Any advice would once again be appreciated. When I've fathomed out how to post a picture I will.
    Thanks for all the help,
    Mark

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Epsom
    Posts
    5
    Hopefully you may be able to help!

    I have been given an Original 35 without a trigger unit to fix for a friend having been refused by a gun shop!

    I managed to get a trigger unit but when I tried to fit it the pin is blocked from sliding through by a spring in the main body. Any ideas ?

    Everything else is in place but may have been tinkered with considering the trigger was missing, nothing on you tube seems to explain this issue. The gun breaks but without the trigger unit does not hold the cocking action.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    bedlington NE22 7JL
    Posts
    1,542
    trigger units are a funny/fiddely unit
    if i recall theres 3 ball bearings,the tube bit that they sit on and the spring guide have to be locked in place,then unlocked when its all in place...i just cant recall the setup.
    ive a dianna 35,same gun,that needs it trigger unit put back in as in pinched the odd bit for my original

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Epsom
    Posts
    5
    Trigger unit on the bay for £20 + postage if that helps

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