BSA A/S Mk 2 cocking lever pins.

[Steve Zodiac]

From memory the front one is a riveted sort of pin like on the Cadet/ Major and early model Meteors http://www.airgunspares.com/store/pr...rt-No.-16-424/ . Very difficult to get out and then back in and peen over again. Probably shops drilled the "head" and then fitted a new pin and used some sort of clamp to peen it over .

Thank ggggr..

I think you are correct on the drilling out. The front pin which is solid was a right so and so to get out, but the rear which is hollow is impossible with the normal drift method. Don’t want to risk any damage by just bashing the hell out of it with a heavier hammer . I’ve already managed to splay the lever where it fits over the trigger block by 2 or 3 mm.

I’ll take it to the gunsmith I use and put my hammer under lock and key.

I took the stock off a MK1 I have to glue , and decided to strip that down part way just out of curiosity really, that went swimmingly, pins came out easy , knocked the trigger block to get it going , spring out, nice and straight , piston out , seal looked good apart from one piece of pellet debris embedded in the flat of the seal, cleaned , lubed seal two or three time’s with 3-one , re moly, back together , POW shooting lovely .

I’m a gunsmith now ... NOT !

MK 2, total opposite !

I’d like to learn , see the internals etc on one or two of my old guns but I don’t think I’d do it any favours armed with a hand held drill.

As Clint once said “ A man has to know his limitations “ .

[Steve Zodiac]

Regarding the rear pin--get plenty of Plus Gas or similar on it. Clean up any thing on the lever which may be damaged. I'b be tempted to try a small screw/ bolt and a nut and a spacer (maybe a slighty smaller roll pin or a nut that you have filed round) --Put it the screw with a washer on through the pin and get your spacer and nut on the the other side and just nip it up--then leave over night and see if it has moved a little --then nip it up again.

A bit of heat might help.
OR you could get a drill near the right size and try drilling the walls on the pin.

Ordered some plus gas this morning to see if that will do the trick.

No amount of WD40 or 3-one spray lube helped.

[SRV1]

For a "stubborn" roll pin, a stepped punch can be the answer. The punch smaller diameter fitting snugly in the roll pin and outer pin diameter obviously such that it just clears the hole the roll pin sits in. The stepped punch ensures good even contact with the pin circumference, keeping things nice and square so to say and making a successful good strike possible to shift it. Obviously the exiting side of the pin needs good support. The problem being if one does not have a lathe or someone with access to make one, or, trying to find and make a sleeve to fit over a bolt.....

Good luck with a frustrating situation.

[trajectory]

For a "stubborn" roll pin, a stepped punch can be the answer. The punch smaller diameter fitting snugly in the roll pin and outer pin diameter obviously such that it just clears the hole the roll pin sits in. The stepped punch ensures good even contact with the pin circumference, keeping things nice and square so to say and making a successful good strike possible to shift it. Obviously the exiting side of the pin needs good support. The problem being if one does not have a lathe or someone with access to make one, or, trying to find and make a sleeve to fit over a bolt.....

Good luck with a frustrating situation.

Good suggestion, I like these 'dimpled' punches because they help keep the the roll pin concentric with the hole it's in & reduce the chance of the punch catching the hole at the starting point. I am not aware of anyone making them commercially but if you have the kit to make them they are handy.
If the pin you are faced with is peened over at the ends at the factory they did it for a reason....to stop it walking. Before anyone tries to get one out they need to assure themselves they can recreate the process with the replacement that is going to replace it.

[Steve Zodiac]

I’ve created my own dimple brass punch by merely knocking the crap out of the absolute B****** cocking lever pin with what was a perfectly good brand new brass drift.

My plus gas arrived moments ago , I’ve applied it and I’m now waiting tapping my fingers on the work bench for something good to happen before tea.

[trajectory]

Making your own tools can be very rewarding!

Watch out for any risk of a taper entering the hole in the roll pin or it will tend to open it up as you try & drift it out & jam up. Less likely with a brass drift but if you find a steel punch that hasn't got a squared of tip then it might happen.

Just support things as much as possible, & ensure there is no obstruction at either end of the pin/ hole & get things lined up. Could you modify a G clamp or similar to wind a piece of drill rod or hardened rod to drive the pin out without the need to clout it, might be a more controlled way of exerting pressure from one side & supporting the other. Might also reduce the chance of slipping out of allignment too....

Best of luck

[Steve Zodiac]

Waited , nothing good happened .

Plus-gas now resides at end of garden.

Pubs open !