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Thread: PH .451 3 band rifle

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Hi Chaps

    Thanks for the info so far,I'm still a bit hazy' about the molds and sizing of the resultant cast bullets .
    From what I have read one should go for a bullet 1 thou under bore size so for example a Lyman 451114 should produce a bullet of nominal dia 452/1 so then it should be sized down to 450?

    Regards
    James

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Huntingdon
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    Quote Originally Posted by JB101 View Post
    Hi Chaps

    Thanks for the info so far,I'm still a bit hazy' about the molds and sizing of the resultant cast bullets .
    From what I have read one should go for a bullet 1 thou under bore size so for example a Lyman 451114 should produce a bullet of nominal dia 452/1 so then it should be sized down to 450?

    Regards
    James
    When I bought MY three-band Enfield Volunteer match rifle, it came with the Lyman mould, AND a sizing die that used a hammer strike to push the bullet through and make it .450" calibre. When you shoot the bullet, it upsets into the rifling. You can buy bullets ready-cast and sized and lubed from Henry Krank, if you don't care to cast your own.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Watford
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    Hi Tac
    Thanks for the info,the rifle is pre owned and I am not sure if any molds or wad punches are (still) with it ,I am presuming not hence the questions about the best mold(s) to get.
    I'll cast my own as I used to have a couple of BPCR's and used to cast for those as well as a pedersoli Le Page which I still have.

    I'm also possibly looking at a Ruger Old Army 44 cal ,is there anything to look out for in these ?

    Regards
    James

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Huntingdon
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    9,253
    Quote Originally Posted by JB101 View Post
    Hi Tac - Thanks for the info,the rifle is pre owned and I am not sure if any molds or wad punches are (still) with it ,I am presuming not hence the questions about the best mold(s) to get.
    I'll cast my own as I used to have a couple of BPCR's and used to cast for those as well as a pedersoli Le Page which I still have.

    I'm also possibly looking at a Ruger Old Army 44 cal ,is there anything to look out for in these ?

    Regards
    James
    Well, about a thousand posts here concerning the ROA. I'll list the things about them that might help you make up your mind...

    1. Production stopped in 2008. They came in 7.5" bbl and ca.5" , blued and s/s.

    2. There are NO spares from the factory apart from a couple of screws that are common to Ruger's other single-action revolvers - the Blackhawk and Super Blackhawk.

    3. there is a company here in UK that makes a fine replacement copy of the cylinder base pin for around £35. I suggest that you get on to E*** and buy one toot sweet if you get an ROA. They are not fragile - the whole thing is built like a tank - but forgetting to turn the locking screw might mean that instead of pushing the ball into the chamber, you bend the base-pin instead.

    4. Nipples here in UK are the most ludicrous price imaginable - I get them for about the 1/3 the price when I'm back over in USA and sell them to people here - about forty sets, so far.

    5. I've seen them priced from around £400 right up to a £1000. It pays to ask around - my LGS currently has two, at least last time I looked.

    I figured that your rifle, made as it was around 1985-7, was not new. As for a wad punch for the .451 - Henry Krank does one. The best material for a wad depends on your choice of two materials - greased felt or one-side-shiny cardboard. The latter is the stuff you find inside the collar of a new shirt, for those who can afford a new shirt. THE most important thing about loading it is consistency - of pressure on loading the bullet down, and on the cleanth of the bore after doing so. Take a look at capandball, or better still, my pal Rob on britishmuzzleloaders - he is THE man for this and many other Victorian and earlier infantry arms - in uniform, too.

    Lastly - be VERY careful when selecting your ROA, although totally identical in every way, the calibre designation changed a number of years back for reasons beyond my comprehension. Earlier models, like mine form 1986, were classed as .44cal, later ones as .45cal - make sure what you are buying because your FAC may have the wrong calibre on it. In spite of all that farting about, they are BOTH the same calibre and use the same .457cal ball made in a dedicated Lee mould.
    Last edited by tacfoley; 07-07-2020 at 10:06 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Watford
    Posts
    927
    Hi Tac
    Thanks for the summary on the ROA , I was aware of the calibre issue on these and the one I am looking at has 44 cal marked under the ramrod.
    I’ll keep doing some more research on the 451 rifle as well👍

    Regards
    James

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Huntingdon
    Posts
    9,253
    Quote Originally Posted by JB101 View Post
    Hi Tac
    Thanks for the summary on the ROA , I was aware of the calibre issue on these and the one I am looking at has 44 cal marked under the ramrod.
    I’ll keep doing some more research on the 451 rifle as well👍

    Regards
    James
    The two-band rifle is more accurate, as the barrel is not just shorter, but also thicker in diameter and therefore more rigid.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    skipton, n.yorks
    Posts
    438

    .451 ph volunteer rifle

    I've got a ph .451 volunteer rifle , serial no # 670 , it came with the bullet mold & wad punch

    Hopefully using it this Saturday when our range reopens

    I use 60gns of Swiss no2 powder

    Cheers Steve

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