Rws scimitar leaking

[madcarlos]

Hi , Just to ask on behalf of my mate which has just picked up this rws scimitar, Basically the gun is leaking air , so far none out of barrel and the fill area is also free from leaking, Anyone have any idea of any common problems due to leaking, Also anyone who may have a strip guide and any info with regards to strip and service, Are these easy enough to self service and reseal, Thanks.

[premierpistol]

I have had a few of these and they are relatively easy to service, however, if you have never done one before, they could seem a daunting job to undertake. they can easily be screwed up by the novice and never seal up again.

Take a look at the diagram available here > LINK
It shows the positions of all seals, problem seals are often the Gauge seal, the o ring on the cylinder fitting ( OR144 on the diagram) and the fill valve seal (OR068) and the bonded seal (BS118)

you dont need to fully dismantle all the rifle to get at those which is good as you dont need to mess with any anti-tamper devices which may be fitted.

Certainly worth trying those before anything else.

Paul

EDIT: I meant to add, take no notice of the diagram having the wrong stock shown, thats the Webley Spectre offering which is the same metal parts. Getting the stock off the scimitar is a pig a times and you have to remove the cylinder off the gun, then remove the rear stock part, then remove the grip ( careful, the top of the grip will crack if you dont remove the screw that goes through the pellet probe) Then and only then can you remove the bottom stock section. Sounds worse than it is, honest gov...

If you get stuck, PM me and I'll see if we can talk through it?

[madcarlos]

I have had a few of these and they are relatively easy to service, however, if you have never done one before, they could seem a daunting job to undertake. they can easily be screwed up by the novice and never seal up again.

Take a look at the diagram available here > LINK
It shows the positions of all seals, problem seals are often the Gauge seal, the o ring on the cylinder fitting ( OR144 on the diagram) and the fill valve seal (OR068) and the bonded seal (BS118)

you dont need to fully dismantle all the rifle to get at those which is good as you dont need to mess with any anti-tamper devices which may be fitted.

Certainly worth trying those before anything else.

Paul

EDIT: I meant to add, take no notice of the diagram having the wrong stock shown, thats the Webley Spectre offering which is the same metal parts. Getting the stock off the scimitar is a pig a times and you have to remove the cylinder off the gun, then remove the rear stock part, then remove the grip ( careful, the top of the grip will crack if you dont remove the screw that goes through the pellet probe) Then and only then can you remove the bottom stock section. Sounds worse than it is, honest gov...

If you get stuck, PM me and I'll see if we can talk through it?

Thanks for the above, Will pass all info on to my mate , Thanks

[madcarlos]

Only to ask, Does the cylinder just screw off, Thanks again.

[premierpistol]

Only to ask, Does the cylinder just screw off, Thanks again.

yes, straight off from the block fitting, however, if the cylinder is completely empty, it often unscrews from the brass tube fitting instead. its worth putting 100bar of air in the cylinder if you can and then unscrew the cylinder a half turn. dry fire the gun to empty the cylinder and then continue to unscrew it the rest of the way.

saves having the issue of the stock being tight to remove or worse, chipping the finish. ( yes, personal experience )

[madcarlos]

yes, straight off from the block fitting, however, if the cylinder is completely empty, it often unscrews from the brass tube fitting instead. its worth putting 100bar of air in the cylinder if you can and then unscrew the cylinder a half turn. dry fire the gun to empty the cylinder and then continue to unscrew it the rest of the way.

saves having the issue of the stock being tight to remove or worse, chipping the finish. ( yes, personal experience )

Ok great, Thanks very much for the advice.

[Gavlar]

If it's not been stripped before, the screws that hold the two halves of the action together can be pigs to get out. I think the manufactures used a semi permanent loc-tite on them. Take care not to strip the heads.

[madcarlos]

If it's not been stripped before, the screws that hold the two halves of the action together can be pigs to get out. I think the manufactures used a semi permanent loc-tite on them. Take care not to strip the heads.

Ok thanks for that, And if you or anyone else knows the procedure on removing the stock would be very appreciated. Thanks again

[BLoBacK]

Hate to tell you this but you,ve been given the wrong advise. The Scimitar is a one piece tube , the same as a Webley/logan Axsor . They are notorious for leaking. The breech block has to be removed to get at the firing valve assembly. If it has a TP adjuster the blanking screw MUST be removed first otherwise you will create a deep score along the cylinder , ruining it in the process. There is also a small o ring on the stainless valve seat which is often overlooked and is tricky to remove. The most common places for leaking are the small inlet valve o ring , usually the first to go , and , as already mentioned, the gauge. Empty the rifle and pull the inlet valve body first . If the main o ring has turned into a square section chances are the firing valve body o ring has also gone. Take things slowly and remember to lightly lube the o rings with a small amount of silicon grease.

[madcarlos]

Hate to tell you this but you,ve been given the wrong advise. The Scimitar is a one piece tube , the same as a Webley/logan Axsor . They are notorious for leaking. The breech block has to be removed to get at the firing valve assembly. If it has a TP adjuster the blanking screw MUST be removed first otherwise you will create a deep score along the cylinder , ruining it in the process. There is also a small o ring on the stainless valve seat which is often overlooked and is tricky to remove. The most common places for leaking are the small inlet valve o ring , usually the first to go , and , as already mentioned, the gauge. Empty the rifle and pull the inlet valve body first . If the main o ring has turned into a square section chances are the firing valve body o ring has also gone. Take things slowly and remember to lightly lube the o rings with a small amount of silicon grease.

Ok thanks again for that, Can the stock and cylinder be removed easy enough

[philong]

There's a strip down guide for FX 2000 on YouTube...Best buy a seal kit and do them all.

[madcarlos]

There's a strip down guide for FX 2000 on YouTube...Best buy a seal kit and do them all.

Is there much difference between the 2 guns

[premierpistol]

Hate to tell you this but you,ve been given the wrong advise. The Scimitar is a one piece tube , the same as a Webley/logan Axsor . They are notorious for leaking. The breech block has to be removed to get at the firing valve assembly. If it has a TP adjuster the blanking screw MUST be removed first otherwise you will create a deep score along the cylinder , ruining it in the process. There is also a small o ring on the stainless valve seat which is often overlooked and is tricky to remove. The most common places for leaking are the small inlet valve o ring , usually the first to go , and , as already mentioned, the gauge. Empty the rifle and pull the inlet valve body first . If the main o ring has turned into a square section chances are the firing valve body o ring has also gone. Take things slowly and remember to lightly lube the o rings with a small amount of silicon grease.

Trust me, you are thinking of the RWS Rapier or RWS Excalibur models.
They are based on the earlier Axsor design with a full piece tube, these include the FX2000, Lite-W8, Axsor (both webley and logun branded) and possibly other branding in either single, two shot and multi shot options.

The RWS Scimitar was designed differently and closely follows the design of the FX Cyclone and Cutlas rifles as well as the Webley Spectre variant. these all have a removable cylinder by design, this allows them to be "hot swapped" too, enabling a shooter to carry a spare cylinder if so desired.


Hope this helps

[premierpistol]

If it's not been stripped before, the screws that hold the two halves of the action together can be pigs to get out. I think the manufactures used a semi permanent loc-tite on them. Take care not to strip the heads.

or the importers as an anti-tamper measure...
stripping the screws renders the action almost useless, the good news is you dont have to remove these to replace the seals.

[madcarlos]

or the importers as an anti-tamper measure...
stripping the screws renders the action almost useless, the good news is you dont have to remove these to replace the seals.

Any strip manuals about, The more the merrier