gun bore oil

[MrChipShoulder]

Cleaning my BP barrels until the patches come out perfectly clean, drying them out and oiling them.
The oil is applied with a wool mop saturated in oil and pumped up and down the barrel a few times, on the last pull, I spin the mop faster than the rifling so the oil is forced into the rifling from the sideways rotation of the mop.
I find that after 3-4 days, the oil seems to have thinned out to nothing and I can get drown/red dirty patches out the barrel.
So it seems that I need to dry better and maybe change my oil for something better?
Drying is done with patches until 'dry'.

I've used :-

Hoppes No9
Abby gun oil
Rig Grease
Barricade

Has anybody used other oils that keep a UK gun rust free after cleaning?

My bores shine like a mirror with a bore light, and patch smoothly, but I would like to able to re-patch them a week after cleaning and not have dirty brown patches again.

P.S,
I use a bronze brush also during a clean.

[tacfoley]

Cleaning my BP barrels until the patches come out perfectly clean, drying them out and oiling them.
The oil is applied with a wool mop saturated in oil and pumped up and down the barrel a few times, on the last pull, I spin the mop faster than the rifling so the oil is forced into the rifling from the sideways rotation of the mop.
I find that after 3-4 days, the oil seems to have thinned out to nothing and I can get drown/red dirty patches out the barrel.
So it seems that I need to dry better and maybe change my oil for something better?
Drying is done with patches until 'dry'.

I've used :-

Hoppes No9
Abby gun oil
Rig Grease
Barricade

Has anybody used other oils that keep a UK gun rust free after cleaning?

My bores shine like a mirror with a bore light, and patch smoothly, but I would like to able to re-patch them a week after cleaning and not have dirty brown patches again.

P.S,
I use a bronze brush also during a clean.

Leave the bronze brush in the cleaning kit box and stick with a bore mop. Unless you can push a metallic brush all the way through the bore, as you can in a revolver, you are not doing the bore any favours by using a PB brush on the kinds of steel usually employed for a BP handgun. Reversing a PB brush in the bore of ANY firearm is not a good idea. I have never done it, and I've been cleaning guns since 1952.

I have two of the family Sniders beside my desk as I write this note - both were made before 1867, although one has actually got DC stamps on it, and the bores of both of them are like mirrors from end to end. 3-in-1 is your friend, IMO, because that is absolutely ALL that has EVER been used in the last century, at least. Before that, it was probably some kind of mink or whale oil. Old guns like old remedies, it seems.

There must be a thousand modern 'brews' for cleaning guns, most of them containing ammonia or similar concoction for getting rid of the copper than comes of bullet jacketing. Not applicable for BP firearms of the kind that most of us have here in UK, and deadly when mixed with the products of burning BP, deadly to a barrel, that is. If they don't have ammonia in them, then they have some other space-age brew that optimises the bore for the use of a jacketed bullet, not a lump of lead wrapped in cloth, or even a lead ball, if we are talking about a revolver. Some folks, me included, like Ballistol, suitably diluted - Dustin, here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozFb6b3NhK4 - note that your significant other [if you have one] might not care for the aroma, which is, I have to say, a mite pungent.

[loiner1965]

Leave the bronze brush in the cleaning kit box and stick with a bore mop. Unless you can push a metallic brush all the way through the bore, as you can in a revolver, you are not doing the bore any favours by using a PB brush on the kinds of steel usually employed for a BP handgun. Reversing a PB brush in the bore of ANY firearm is not a good idea. I have never done it, and I've been cleaning guns since 1952.

I have two of the family Sniders beside my desk as I write this note - both were made before 1867, although one has actually got DC stamps on it, and the bores of both of them are like mirrors from end to end. 3-in-1 is your friend, IMO, because that is absolutely ALL that has EVER been used in the last century, at least. Before that, it was probably some kind of mink or whale oil. Old guns like old remedies, it seems.

There must be a thousand modern 'brews' for cleaning guns, most of them containing ammonia or similar concoction for getting rid of the copper than comes of bullet jacketing. Not applicable for BP firearms of the kind that most of us have here in UK, and deadly when mixed with the products of burning BP, deadly to a barrel, that is. If they don't have ammonia in them, then they have some other space-age brew that optimises the bore for the use of a jacketed bullet, not a lump of lead wrapped in cloth, or even a lead ball, if we are talking about a revolver.

as above or rangoon oil

[MrChipShoulder]

I forgot to say I started with Ballistol and found it awful stuff for rusting after cleaning.

I thinned it down 5:1 with water and used that after the initial clean with soapy water until the patches were perfectly clean.
Dried the barrel and then used neat Ballistol on a wool mop.
Go back to the barrel 3-4 days later and I'd may as well not have bothered cleaning after shooting, thick red/brown rust patch cloths come out.
This is why I started using different oils.

Barricade worked the best, but my body can't take it!
It leaches into my skin and all I can taste is metal metallic taste in my mouth for 12 hours after, can't be doing me much good!
I started using gloves, but now even the smell makes me react

I wonder if I need to dry my bores better than just patching until 'dry'?
Maybe make some sort of thin rod with a brass disk on the end, drop that to the bottom of the gun and wrap toilet roll around the rod and send it down via a brass tube. Then pull the toilet roll back out via the disked rod. I think toilet roll would do a better job of drying than cloth patches?

So maybe drying is my problem rather than finding a 'better' oil??

[loiner1965]

I forgot to say I started with Ballistol and found it awful stuff for rusting after cleaning.

I thinned it down 5:1 with water and used that after the initial clean with soapy water until the patches were perfectly clean.
Dried the barrel and then used neat Ballistol on a wool mop.
Go back to the barrel 3-4 days later and I'd may as well not have bothered cleaning after shooting, thick red/brown rust patch cloths come out.
This is why I started using different oils.

Barricade worked the best, but my body can't take it!
It leaches into my skin and all I can taste is metal metallic taste in my mouth for 12 hours after, can't be doing me much good!
I started using gloves, but now even the smell makes me react

I wonder if I need to dry my bores better than just patching until 'dry'?
Maybe make some sort of thin rod with a brass disk on the end, drop that to the bottom of the gun and wrap toilet roll around the rod and send it down via a brass tube. Then pull the toilet roll back out via the disked rod. I think toilet roll would do a better job of drying than cloth patches?

So maybe drying is my problem rather than finding a 'better' oil??

eezzoz......kroil.....ballistol are good oils and the old rangoon
when i oil the barrel eg martini henry i dont patch it dry i just store as is.......i dont even patch it clean before my next shoot which could be months on end.
maybe i should.....who knows as i never notice any issue .
if you think you should dry throughly first, remove action from stock and heat with air dryer then oil.
when you patch and see rust afterwards whats the bore like......any pits / rust.....could it be dry oil you seeing ?

[MrChipShoulder]

The bores are always nice and shiny with no pitting or nastyness with a bore light, but when patched, I almost always get muck on the patch, I assume it's rust.

As you say, it my just be dirty oil, seems rather dry though.

I can't understand what I'm doing wrong as I follow exactly what others say to do and I don't stop patching and scrubbing until the patches come out as clean as new cloth (I'm using fluffy 4x2). The oils I have been using are also all well known gun oils and have a good track record with other people over the years. I don't live in a swamp and my house is dry, we have a dehumidifier running all year and the house is always about 20C.

I think I'll make my 'Bog Roll Ramming' tool to dry the bores and then oil. Bog roll is very absorbent and cheap, it should pull ALL the damp out.

I'll post some pics of the tool and report back once it's made.
I fail to see why it wouldn't work?