[QUOTE=MrChipShoulder;7911016]Thank you Tac.
Is this it?
https://www.monandborder.co.uk/search.php/lm2[QUOTE]
Yup.
[QUOTE=MrChipShoulder;7911016]Thank you Tac.
Is this it?
https://www.monandborder.co.uk/search.php/lm2[QUOTE]
Yup.
Hi I dont use a muzzle loader but shoot 12g BP shotguns. I have done numerous tests on the rust proofing of steel. The only oil which will hold back rust on new clean mild steel for months on end. "on the roof of my shed in winter" is ACF 50.
A light coating in a clean barrel WILL stop it rusting.
When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!
The rust may be due the metal surface being absolutely clean. The oil, as well as putting up a protective barrier, will solve the problem of the clean surface.
This cylinder was cleaned in hot water and dried. It was then put under the grill to make sure the nooks and crannies had dried out. When I took it off the grill, still fairly warm, this rust had formed.
It can't be from the blackpowder residue so I can only think it was because of the perfectly clean surface that the metal was able to oxidize from the damp in the air.
When browning a barrel it works the same way. The chemical, Ammonium Chloride, cleans the surface off and allows it to oxidize.
https://i.postimg.cc/ZqMch2rV/Rust.jpg
Last edited by MrChipShoulder; 07-08-2020 at 12:12 AM.
So it seems that the LM2 grease Tac advised is working.
This is the patch that came out my daughters 36cal pistol 4 days after the last clean after a day of shooting it. With my old cleaning system, the patch would have showed brown rust in the oil after this length of time. As you can see, nothing but grease now.
https://ibb.co/hsPyf6j
I did make one change to the cleaning process last Sunday though, and that was to blast an air line up and down the bore after washing. In all honesty, this may well have gone quite a long way to helping as I'm sure it would have dried the barrel out better than patches? I don't have a water trap on the air line, but it doesn't seem to have mattered on this occasion.
I was trying to keep away from compressed air as it's nice to be able to clean without the use of large tools, but needs must some times! I guess it doesn't really matter, as I very much doubt I'll ever need to 'field clean' any of my guns, always workshop cleaning at home! Plus I've taken to using my ultra sonic cleaner for my stainless revolver anyway, so what the hell, power tools here we come !!!
I know we 'butt heads' Tac, but thanks for the help on LM2 grease.
Thanks where thanks is due![]()
Jeremiah Johnson didn't have no fancy air line...just sayin'![]()
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
He didn't have Carlube LM2 grease either
The original oils I used always seemed to vanish after a very short time. I've not tested this LM2 for long, but from what I can see so far, it's just as wet in the bore as it was when I put it there. Also with a greased mop, you can feel where the bore is dry and then gets greased up as you pump the mop. The oils never felt as easy to feel the bore. I expect it's because the oils were quite thin and do not offer so much resistance. The LM2 has quite a bit of drag and even more when it's running over a dry patch of the bore.
I can see where you are coming form with testing using the original oils, but to be honest, if the LM2 works after an air line, I'll stick with that, as it doesn't seem to run out the touch hole or muzzle in storage! (I know, muzzle down for storage anyway!)
Last edited by MrChipShoulder; 14-08-2020 at 08:03 AM.