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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    I forgot to say I started with Ballistol and found it awful stuff for rusting after cleaning.

    I thinned it down 5:1 with water and used that after the initial clean with soapy water until the patches were perfectly clean.
    Dried the barrel and then used neat Ballistol on a wool mop.
    Go back to the barrel 3-4 days later and I'd may as well not have bothered cleaning after shooting, thick red/brown rust patch cloths come out.
    This is why I started using different oils.

    Barricade worked the best, but my body can't take it!
    It leaches into my skin and all I can taste is metal metallic taste in my mouth for 12 hours after, can't be doing me much good!
    I started using gloves, but now even the smell makes me react

    I wonder if I need to dry my bores better than just patching until 'dry'?
    Maybe make some sort of thin rod with a brass disk on the end, drop that to the bottom of the gun and wrap toilet roll around the rod and send it down via a brass tube. Then pull the toilet roll back out via the disked rod. I think toilet roll would do a better job of drying than cloth patches?

    So maybe drying is my problem rather than finding a 'better' oil??

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    leeds, west yorkshire
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrChipShoulder View Post
    I forgot to say I started with Ballistol and found it awful stuff for rusting after cleaning.

    I thinned it down 5:1 with water and used that after the initial clean with soapy water until the patches were perfectly clean.
    Dried the barrel and then used neat Ballistol on a wool mop.
    Go back to the barrel 3-4 days later and I'd may as well not have bothered cleaning after shooting, thick red/brown rust patch cloths come out.
    This is why I started using different oils.

    Barricade worked the best, but my body can't take it!
    It leaches into my skin and all I can taste is metal metallic taste in my mouth for 12 hours after, can't be doing me much good!
    I started using gloves, but now even the smell makes me react

    I wonder if I need to dry my bores better than just patching until 'dry'?
    Maybe make some sort of thin rod with a brass disk on the end, drop that to the bottom of the gun and wrap toilet roll around the rod and send it down via a brass tube. Then pull the toilet roll back out via the disked rod. I think toilet roll would do a better job of drying than cloth patches?

    So maybe drying is my problem rather than finding a 'better' oil??
    eezzoz......kroil.....ballistol are good oils and the old rangoon
    when i oil the barrel eg martini henry i dont patch it dry i just store as is.......i dont even patch it clean before my next shoot which could be months on end.
    maybe i should.....who knows as i never notice any issue .
    if you think you should dry throughly first, remove action from stock and heat with air dryer then oil.
    when you patch and see rust afterwards whats the bore like......any pits / rust.....could it be dry oil you seeing ?
    Last edited by loiner1965; 04-08-2020 at 05:21 PM.

  3. #3
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    Dec 2012
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    The bores are always nice and shiny with no pitting or nastyness with a bore light, but when patched, I almost always get muck on the patch, I assume it's rust.

    As you say, it my just be dirty oil, seems rather dry though.

    I can't understand what I'm doing wrong as I follow exactly what others say to do and I don't stop patching and scrubbing until the patches come out as clean as new cloth (I'm using fluffy 4x2). The oils I have been using are also all well known gun oils and have a good track record with other people over the years. I don't live in a swamp and my house is dry, we have a dehumidifier running all year and the house is always about 20C.

    I think I'll make my 'Bog Roll Ramming' tool to dry the bores and then oil. Bog roll is very absorbent and cheap, it should pull ALL the damp out.

    I'll post some pics of the tool and report back once it's made.
    I fail to see why it wouldn't work?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    leeds, west yorkshire
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrChipShoulder View Post
    The bores are always nice and shiny with no pitting or nastyness with a bore light, but when patched, I almost always get muck on the patch, I assume it's rust.

    As you say, it my just be dirty oil, seems rather dry though.

    I can't understand what I'm doing wrong as I follow exactly what others say to do and I don't stop patching and scrubbing until the patches come out as clean as new cloth (I'm using fluffy 4x2). The oils I have been using are also all well known gun oils and have a good track record with other people over the years. I don't live in a swamp and my house is dry, we have a dehumidifier running all year and the house is always about 20C.

    I think I'll make my 'Bog Roll Ramming' tool to dry the bores and then oil. Bog roll is very absorbent and cheap, it should pull ALL the damp out.

    I'll post some pics of the tool and report back once it's made.
    I fail to see why it wouldn't work?
    buy a cheap usb bore scope off eb@y about a tenner and connect to you pc.....then have a look down your barrel

  5. #5
    Turnup's Avatar
    Turnup is offline Dialling code‎: ‎01344
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    Just a couple of things I thought I would mention.

    All oils tend to dry to some extent and most leave a brown residue - is that what you are seeing on your patch?

    All barrels have micro cracks and micro pores. These tend to weep crud over a few days - could this be what you are seeing on your patch?
    True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turnup View Post
    Just a couple of things I thought I would mention.

    All oils tend to dry to some extent and most leave a brown residue - is that what you are seeing on your patch?

    All barrels have micro cracks and micro pores. These tend to weep crud over a few days - could this be what you are seeing on your patch?
    i think it is too......as in post 5 but you explained it better lol

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Manchester
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    When I first started muzzleloading I was told by one of the older blokes that modern detergents, fairy liquid and the like, contain pure salt to make them froth up. He said use Stardrops there is no salt in it. I have been using it ever since and found it works.
    When I clean my bore I use a wool mop and stand the barrel in a bucket of hot water and use the mop like a plunger, going up and down and drawing the water through the barrel until it comes out of the muzzle. I change the water for a second clean and then I change it a third time but without soap so I can flush everything out and then I dry the barrel with ordinary patches. Then I oil it. I have never had any problems with rust using that method.
    Everyone has their own method and they all work. It is essential the barrel is dry before oiling it. Don't bother with WD40. It will remove moisture but it does NOT stop rust forming.
    Before I put the gun away I put a small piece of cloth on the nipple and lower the hammer to hold it in place. I find this stops any excess oil draining out and going on the woodwork and the cabinet floor.
    I usually run a dry patch through the gun before I go out with it so it is free of oil so when I flash off and any excess is burnt off or blown out of the nipple to reduce the chance of a misfire.

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