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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacfoley View Post
    How odd it is that we both use almost the identical method.

    MY version is different because I stand my m/l rifle on the muzzle, so that any crud runs down onto the pad of cloth in the muzzle.
    i have 3 x eic 1842 e and f versions..... a brown bess and a really nice eic fusil , but not on my ticket so cannot shoot them so not fussed in cleaning them lol
    the fusil is a type 2 1842 .....originally an eic but captured by some muslim militia and stamped with a crescent moon ( ottaman )
    Last edited by loiner1965; 04-08-2020 at 07:32 PM.

  2. #2
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    This is the crud that is coming out of the Le Page pistol after 7 days from cleaning.

    https://ibb.co/MnCxLHP

    The pistol was washed out with ballistol until the patches were totally clean.
    The bore was dried with patches and then oiled up with a mop with pure Ballistol.

    Our house is dehumidified and a constant 20c it's also summer now and not rained in 2 weeks.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrChipShoulder View Post
    This is the crud that is coming out of the Le Page pistol after 7 days from cleaning.

    https://ibb.co/MnCxLHP

    The pistol was washed out with ballistol until the patches were totally clean.
    The bore was dried with patches and then oiled up with a mop with pure Ballistol.

    Our house is dehumidified and a constant 20c it's also summer now and not rained in 2 weeks.
    Hmmmmmmm, it surely do look like rust to me. I've no idea what to suggest to you - I don't have anything to go by as an example since none of my guns, old and very old, have ever looked like that at any time.

    I'd be grateful if you would allow me to post that image on muzzleloadingforum.com, where about a 1/4 million BP shooters might have a better idea of what to do.

  4. #4
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    You are welcome to post it where you want Tac.

    I've already asked on that forum about 3 months ago, it was a huge thread and the conclusion was I can't clean and it has never happened to any shooter on there.

    I have read about a 1000 ways to clean a gun, and I'm not stupid, so I guess I'm doing something fundamentally wrong.
    I think I maybe not drying the bore well enough?

    I've even followed the original owners instructions on cleaning when we bought the pistol (we had a practical lesson), still the gun looks like this after a week. So do all my other steel guns, the Stainless ones don't

    I'm going to make the bog roll cleaning rod over the weekend, we'll be shooting on Sunday so will have plenty to clean after.
    I'm hoping a good dry with toilet/kitchen roll will sort the problem out.

    Is there any reason why I can't bore oil with fully synithetic motor oil, 2 stroke or 4 rather than the thin type 'gun oils'?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrChipShoulder View Post
    You are welcome to post it where you want Tac.

    I've already asked on that forum about 3 months ago, it was a huge thread and the conclusion was I can't clean and it has never happened to any shooter on there.

    I have read about a 1000 ways to clean a gun, and I'm not stupid, so I guess I'm doing something fundamentally wrong.
    I think I maybe not drying the bore well enough?

    I've even followed the original owners instructions on cleaning when we bought the pistol (we had a practical lesson), still the gun looks like this after a week. So do all my other steel guns, the Stainless ones don't

    I'm going to make the bog roll cleaning rod over the weekend, we'll be shooting on Sunday so will have plenty to clean after.
    I'm hoping a good dry with toilet/kitchen roll will sort the problem out.

    Is there any reason why I can't bore oil with fully synithetic motor oil, 2 stroke or 4 rather than the thin type 'gun oils'?
    Stab in the dark
    If it is rust are you sure it’s starts in the barrel and not from nipple channel as you know bp is water absorbing
    Last edited by loiner1965; 05-08-2020 at 03:42 PM.

  6. #6
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    I winder if the crud is from the ingnition channel or (if it has one) the patent breech. Try drying the gun in your oven - 20 mins at 120C - everyone I know dries using an oven.
    True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
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  7. #7
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    right i am home now as my last reply was by using my phone....
    i would clean you barrel again exactly the same way and leave as normal.
    when you run a patch in it only do it for the first inch and see if you get the rust / brown again.....keep moving down bore and remove and check each stage.
    i have a portable steam press with a gun attachment on end which as a nozzle on.
    buy one of these or similiar ( old steam iron remote station) and remove nipple ( put in ultrasonic tank ) and use steam from nipple channel and blast barrel in to a bucket.....do it both ways until clear water comes out.....then dry in oven lol
    dont put in dishwasher unless stainless steel as some blueing may be removed.
    i will try and find the uk test on the best rust preventing oil on youtube for you....
    sometimes i just boil the kettle and pour it down the barrel each way......dry.....oil.....forget lol
    Last edited by loiner1965; 06-08-2020 at 06:10 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrChipShoulder View Post
    You are welcome to post it where you want Tac.

    I've already asked on that forum about 3 months ago, it was a huge thread and the conclusion was I can't clean and it has never happened to any shooter on there.

    I have read about a 1000 ways to clean a gun, and I'm not stupid, so I guess I'm doing something fundamentally wrong.
    I think I maybe not drying the bore well enough?

    I've even followed the original owners instructions on cleaning when we bought the pistol (we had a practical lesson), still the gun looks like this after a week. So do all my other steel guns, the Stainless ones don't

    I'm going to make the bog roll cleaning rod over the weekend, we'll be shooting on Sunday so will have plenty to clean after.
    I'm hoping a good dry with toilet/kitchen roll will sort the problem out.

    Is there any reason why I can't bore oil with fully synithetic motor oil, 2 stroke or 4 rather than the thin type 'gun oils'?
    Well, if you've tried MLF there's not a lot I can say - maybe you used a different name there? I've been there since 2005, BTW.

    Anyhow, what ever else you end up doing do NOT under any circumstances use ANY petroleum or carbon-based cleaners on ANY BP firearm - NOT because it it dangerous, but because due to chemistry, the crud fouling from the natural flagration of BP will combine with the petrochemical whatever to form a nigh-on impossible to remove 'cake' - in fact, it is as alike to the black cooked-on carbon deposit in a worn-out motor car cylinder head as to be indistinguishable, and I'm sure you know how easy THAT is to remove by hand...

    Leaving the bore dry is never a good idea, notwithstanding that you live in a dry house.

    Back in the late 1870s. the Swiss, who know a thing or two about mechanical mechanisms, decided to totally change the way they looked after their service firearms of all kinds. They concocted a totally natural grease from lanolin and tallow, called it Waffenfett [gun grease] and used it from then on until right now as a cleaner and preservative for first of all the Model of 1879, then the 1889, then the 1900 - iow, the IG 1900, K11 and K31 rifles. The introduction of fully-automatic weapons brought about a new formulation, called, with amazing lack of imagination 'Automatenfett' [full-auto gun grease]. It is black and gloopy and designed for high-speed movement of high-temperature rifles and machine guns - NOT any kind of manually operated firearm. It also migrates up your nose, into your ears and most everywhere imaginable.

    Back to good old-style waffenfett. The regime is simple, and in fact ANY modern light grease will do the same job - note that it must NOT be a petroleum-base product. After shooting, and while the gun is still warm, a patch loaded with the stuff is pushed up and down the barrel at least ten times. This cleans the bore very effectively. After that, another patch, heavily-greased, is pushed up the bore to the muzzle, where it is removed, leaving a layer of grease in the bore.

    Before you shoot again, you patch it out, and when finished, start over.

    My K11 was made in 1900 and my K31 in 1944. Both were in service and both were subsequently sold to their owners and used for many years thereafter. Both have totally mint bores, just like the vast majority of Swiss rifle bores are, simply because of the use of this régime of cleaning. Remember, NO petroleum-based grease!!!!

    The Swiss don't even use oil, either, just application of a light greasing wherever there is contact between metal components.

    I recommend you to try it - after a number of disasters like the one you've shown us, what have you got to lose?

    Ask anybody here who has seen my Swiss rifles if I'm lying to you.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrChipShoulder View Post
    You are welcome to post it where you want Tac.

    I've already asked on that forum about 3 months ago, it was a huge thread and the conclusion was I can't clean and it has never happened to any shooter on there.

    I have read about a 1000 ways to clean a gun, and I'm not stupid, so I guess I'm doing something fundamentally wrong.
    I think I maybe not drying the bore well enough?

    I've even followed the original owners instructions on cleaning when we bought the pistol (we had a practical lesson), still the gun looks like this after a week. So do all my other steel guns, the Stainless ones don't

    I'm going to make the bog roll cleaning rod over the weekend, we'll be shooting on Sunday so will have plenty to clean after.
    I'm hoping a good dry with toilet/kitchen roll will sort the problem out.

    Is there any reason why I can't bore oil with fully synithetic motor oil, 2 stroke or 4 rather than the thin type 'gun oils'?
    It definitely sounds to me that you are not drying the bore, or as loiner said, the nipple channel. I would be wary of using toilet tissue with all the fine fibres that can come off. It might cause more problems than it will solve. I would stick to cloth patches.
    Use the hottest water you can stand, or wear gloves and pour boiling water down the bore and let it drain out. That will leave the metal hot and if you dry it with a patch the heat should dry off the nipple and the channel. Try drying the nipple with a cotton bud just in case there is any water lodged in there.
    Don't forget that oil floats on water so if there is any moisture in the bore it will be trapped under the oil. The bore must be perfectly dry.
    There is no reason why you cannot use engine oil but you would have to remove it before using the gun. It might be too thick to burn off with a couple of caps and you could get the odd misfire at first if there is any left in the nipple.
    Fully synthetic oil I'm not sure about. It is silicon and that can be a pain to remove at the best of times.

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