fit a new spring, as the std ones are loose on the guide... and one with a little less power - you are using open sights at 20-30 yards, so 9-10 FP is plenty and will also calm it down a bit - including the muzzle bark..
fit a new spring, as the std ones are loose on the guide... and one with a little less power - you are using open sights at 20-30 yards, so 9-10 FP is plenty and will also calm it down a bit - including the muzzle bark..
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
Yes have already filled the stock Spring loose on guide was something I did notice !!, may try sleeving the guide a bit, this is the air arms later one has the piston sleeve and pad factory fitted. Power wise 10fpe is fine for me on this gun, (but I have a scope to go with it )
Yep a guide sleeve I think !!
And yes it does indeed bark !!
Been getting a few of these Air Arms types through my hands. At first I did not like them due to the plastic stock, and they all were just a variation of the basic theme, with cosmetic changes. Became impressed with the legal power output and accuracy attainable with them. I think the AR7 has the same muzzle decoration as the Combat ? Cured the twang quite well with red sticky grease on springs. The only thing I really don't like is the weird plastic back sight of the Parabellum, one of which I have spare.
Baz
BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD
I have one that I bought from this very forum, It came with the innards in a bag!, The power supplier was a Theoben gasram that I had to fit using a 4' sash clamp!
The bag of bits, Had to find a few bits like trigger adjusting screw and the pin that it rides in but it's a shooter now!!
They're nice old things if a bit (Lot!) twangy!!
John
for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
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John mate, that scope does not suit the rifle !
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
What grease would you guys suggest for the piston oring on these? I am not used to the single oring set up !!
Turn the spring guide down and sleeve it rather than remove it altogether, go for a larger spring as Jon said so it is snug in the plastic piston liner and ensure that you get the correct metric O ring for optimum performance, I also fit a slightly larger ratchet dampening oring to reduce the cocking rattle. Most of mine have very little preload when reassembled and I find this works best. The early SA Jackals were coming out of the factory running well over power at one point.
The cocking slot and cocking lever can usually use a radius and polish.
This is exactly the same action as went in the Khamsin and SE90 so it is perfectly capable of full power smooth performance, while the 'flash suppressor' is iconic, a silencer transforms the performance.
Pellet choice is important, they usually do well on superdomes - these also feed nicely.
HTH
"But we have our own dream and our own task. We are with Europe, but not of it. We are linked, but not comprised. We are interested and associated, but not absorbed."
Winston Churchill 1930