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Thread: "Leather food" for holster

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shedder View Post
    I seem to remember a guy who works with leather as part of his trade telling me that neatsfoot oil may be "corrosive" or damaging to some threads, so you may need to use with caution if there is any stitching.
    I also understand that there are different grades or types of neatsfoot oil, and some are "better" than others. There may be a thread about it somewhere on here, or just try a google search.
    Neatsfoot oil is a by-product of animal rendering and I don't expect many rendering plants separate calves (neats) from other animals these days (from what I have seen of the industry!).
    They said the same about dubbin rotting stitching.

    I used it for many years and had no issues.


    Neatsfoot can be acidic and may rot stitching but it depends on the thread used apparently.
    Last edited by bighit; 07-10-2020 at 10:18 AM.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by deejayuu View Post
    Museums use Renaissence Wax but can go shiny. Not holsters but may be of interest. http://www.kaisersbunker.com/preservation/index.htm
    What an excellent bit of info

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    They said the same about dubbin rotting stitching.

    I used it for many years and had not issues.


    Neatsfoot can be acidic and may rot stitching but it depends on the thread used apparently.
    Apart from my earlier posting about the praise of Dubbin on leather, I have used it on all my leather motorcycle jackets and boots for well over 40 years, no stitching rotted. I think Dubbin is well used on leather work and saddles in the equestrian community....

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    They said the same about dubbin rotting stitching.

    I used it for many years and had no issues.


    Neatsfoot can be acidic and may rot stitching but it depends on the thread used apparently.
    Yes, agreed about the stitching/thread and acidic effects of neatsfoot oil - that is just how it was explained to me.

  5. #20
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    The tin of Neatsfoot oil I have clearly states that it does not rot stitching. But perhaps not all brands are the same.
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turnup View Post
    The tin of Neatsfoot oil I have clearly states that it does not rot stitching. But perhaps not all brands are the same.
    I think it depends on the concentration as some are compounds .

    Modern neatsfoot oil is still made from cattle-based products, and is sometimes criticised for a tendency to oxidize and therefore contribute to the deterioration of leather.
    This formulation does darken leather, which means that use on light-colored leather is likely to change its color If mineral oil or other petroleum-based material is added, the product may be called "neatsfoot oil compound".

    Some brands have also been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and other oils. The addition of mineral oils may lead to more rapid decay of non-synthetic stitching or speed breakdown of the leather itself.
    Last edited by bighit; 07-10-2020 at 01:22 PM.

  7. #22
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    I have tried to rejuvenate old leather for years now. Pretty well given up.

    If the leather is too far gone by having dried out over time and 'died" then its basically powdered and holding together by luck. Such leather can be polished with a cream wax, and looked at. Don't use the items as they will fall apart very fast.
    Dead leather is just that and no amount of oil is going to fix it. The fibres have lost all integrity.

    "Living" leather needs to be fed, at least every year if not more often.
    Modern leathers are cured with modern hydrocarbon and silica potions; feed them modern potions. Older leather were cured with animal products, so feed them with traditional potions, waxes, like beeswax.

    Neatsfoot or dubin are fine though the former dulls leather and takes yonks to get a shine back. Look out for saddlery leather products. Regular application and use keep leather supple. Eventually the fibres will break down at stress points, whatever you use. Leather is a consumable.

    The Wet, and fast drying from wet draws out the oils that keep the leather healthy. Maintenance is getting oils back into those fibres before they collapse and powder away. Doesn't take long for dry leather's fibres to break themselves up by their own friction, so replace oils often. What lubricant isn't so important.
    "Feed" that leather often. Can take hours to sink in.

    I use whatever potion I think might do good. I have a bunch of potions. Sorry non I can recommend as non are some miracle cure.

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