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Thread: What ball mould?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    What ball mould?

    Hi, I am very new to all of this muzzle loading.
    Just waiting for my variation to come back and when it does I will be getting a 44 1858 target. I would like to cast my own balls (I am not new to casting) but I know it seems like a stupid question but what size mould do I need? Do I just need a 44 ball mould?

    Thanks

    Dave
    It’s sometimes best to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid rather than open your mouth and dispel all doubt…

  2. #2
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    Jun 2005
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    leeds, west yorkshire
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    .454 or .457 as both will work

  3. #3
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    Mar 2011
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    445

    445 mould As bore is .440 .45 moulds will be too tight if using loading arm on pistol.

  4. #4
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    Mar 2011
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    445

    445 mould As bore is .440 .45 moulds will be too tight if using loading arm on pistol.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    As said .454". It is commonly used. It has to be bigger so it takes a shaving of lead off the ball, approx .015", so it seals the chamber on the cylinder.

    Any bullet or ball for a muzzleloader needs to be pure lead. Bullet alloy with tin is too hard.

  6. #6
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    Too much

    15 thou is too much if trying to use Ram on Pistol it will bend the Lever arm. I always remove cylinder and load on a Jig using a six cylinder loader available from Kranks.
    Last edited by series2a; 29-10-2020 at 04:56 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by series2a View Post
    15 thou is too much if trying to use Ram on Pistol it will bend the Lever arm. I always remove cylinder and load on a Jig using a six cylinder loader available from Kranks.
    I have been ramming the balls into a pistol for a number of years and never had a problem.

    .454" ball is generally used on .44" calibre, and .375" ball on .36".

    Perhaps your loading lever on the model of pistol you have is a smaller diameter or thickness than a lot of guns?

    It is not practical on some guns to remove the cylinder each time it is loaded. It is convenient if you can though.

  8. #8
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    So have I

    So have I, The levers bend eventually, I don’t seem to have a problem removing a cylinder from a Revolver takes seconds,maybe yours needs attention. I use a stand and load 6 at a time as the balls can be loaded in to the same depth and pressure aiding accuracy.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by series2a View Post
    So have I, The levers bend eventually, I don’t seem to have a problem removing a cylinder from a Revolver takes seconds,maybe yours needs attention. I use a stand and load 6 at a time as the balls can be loaded in to the same depth and pressure aiding accuracy.
    To remove the cylinder on mine I need to remove a very small screw and knock out the wedge that holds the barrel. Losing the small screw would render the gun unusable. This procedure applies to many muzzleloading revolvers.
    Some pistols are made so the cylinder can be removed easily, which sounds like the type you have.
    I agree that loading all six chambers at the same time with the same pressure applied to the ball/load would aid accuracy.

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